2004 CLK55 (W209) Transmission slow to engage first
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
2004 CLK55 (W209) Transmission slow to engage first
Hi all,
I just traded in my BMW Z3 for a 2004 CLK55 (with 98k mi). Before throwing the money in to the pit I did some research and found out about the Valeo radiator problem. It seems an easy fix so I wasn't worried about it.
After purchasing I figured out the rad was a Valeo unit made before Aug. 2003. So I have ordered all the parts for the Rad replacement and will be doing it in the coming week.
But in the meantime I realized that the tranny is a little slow to engage first (or could be slipping). When I am at a stop, I have to give it quite a bit of gas for it to start pulling (up to around 1500 - 2000 rpm). And it does not start creeping forward if I let go of the brakes. My buddies tell me it is probably normal. But Im not so sure.
So I was wondering could this be a cause of coolant mixing with tranny fluid?
Do you guys have any other thoughts on what might cause this?
Thanks....
PS: Will update as soon as I replace the rad and tranny fluid.
I just traded in my BMW Z3 for a 2004 CLK55 (with 98k mi). Before throwing the money in to the pit I did some research and found out about the Valeo radiator problem. It seems an easy fix so I wasn't worried about it.
After purchasing I figured out the rad was a Valeo unit made before Aug. 2003. So I have ordered all the parts for the Rad replacement and will be doing it in the coming week.
But in the meantime I realized that the tranny is a little slow to engage first (or could be slipping). When I am at a stop, I have to give it quite a bit of gas for it to start pulling (up to around 1500 - 2000 rpm). And it does not start creeping forward if I let go of the brakes. My buddies tell me it is probably normal. But Im not so sure.
So I was wondering could this be a cause of coolant mixing with tranny fluid?
Do you guys have any other thoughts on what might cause this?
Thanks....
PS: Will update as soon as I replace the rad and tranny fluid.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Why not simply do the glycol test? The service bulletin describes vibration/shuddering and jerking within a certain RPM range but all these things are subjective. From what you're describing it does sound like yours is slipping.
The transmission seems to be a little weird till it warms up a little, at least in my case. If you're worried about glycol then start with the glycol test, replace the radiator, flush the transmission, reset the adaptive parameters etc...
The transmission seems to be a little weird till it warms up a little, at least in my case. If you're worried about glycol then start with the glycol test, replace the radiator, flush the transmission, reset the adaptive parameters etc...
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
So I got the new Behr radiator in the mail today. It looks as it should, but it is exactly 3/8 ths of an inch thinner than the Valeo unit already in the car. Is it normal or did I order the wrong radiator?
Here is the part number: 203 500 05 03
Here is what it looks like:
Here is the part number: 203 500 05 03
Here is what it looks like:
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Normal. Mine was a little thinner as well. No cooling issues so far, in fact the engine is running cooler.
203 500 03 03
203 500 06 03
203 500 11 03
203 500 42 03
203 500 05 03
203 500 07 03
203 500 10 03
203 500 25 03
203 500 34 03
203 500 39 03
203 500 42 03
All interchangeable part numbers apparently. Mine is 203 500 10 03.
203 500 03 03
203 500 06 03
203 500 11 03
203 500 42 03
203 500 05 03
203 500 07 03
203 500 10 03
203 500 25 03
203 500 34 03
203 500 39 03
203 500 42 03
All interchangeable part numbers apparently. Mine is 203 500 10 03.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Normal. Mine was a little thinner as well. No cooling issues so far, in fact the engine is running cooler.
203 500 03 03
203 500 06 03
203 500 11 03
203 500 42 03
203 500 05 03
203 500 07 03
203 500 10 03
203 500 25 03
203 500 34 03
203 500 39 03
203 500 42 03
All interchangeable part numbers apparently. Mine is 203 500 10 03.
203 500 03 03
203 500 06 03
203 500 11 03
203 500 42 03
203 500 05 03
203 500 07 03
203 500 10 03
203 500 25 03
203 500 34 03
203 500 39 03
203 500 42 03
All interchangeable part numbers apparently. Mine is 203 500 10 03.
Will start removing the rad tonight. Cant wait any longer to get it out on the road again
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#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Ok guys. I managed to replace the radiator and did an ATF change. The radiator job was easier than I thought. I changed ATF and the filter, and reset the tranny shift points. There was a lot of sludge in the tranny. I will try to cut open the old filter and post some pics.
So back to my original problem. The car still doesn't move forward if I let go of the brakes. I have to give it a little gas, but it is not as worse as it was. Now it starts moving at around 1000 rpm. Do you guys think the tranny is slippping? Is there anything that I can do to it?
I am thinking about running a couple of gallons of ATF through the tranny within the next few hundred miles (to flush out any gunk that is left). Any thoughts on that?
So back to my original problem. The car still doesn't move forward if I let go of the brakes. I have to give it a little gas, but it is not as worse as it was. Now it starts moving at around 1000 rpm. Do you guys think the tranny is slippping? Is there anything that I can do to it?
I am thinking about running a couple of gallons of ATF through the tranny within the next few hundred miles (to flush out any gunk that is left). Any thoughts on that?
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
My car doesn't move forward as quickly as other cars either. However, if I press the gas it gets going without any lag. If you're pressing the gas and nothing happens until you reach say 1500 RPMs then yeah that's clearly an issue haha.
How did the old fluid look? Was it just sludge or was it milky...If nobody did a trans fluid change for 60k miles that's not exactly a good thing. They're supposed to be serviced at 40k. Send a sample of the old fluid to blackstone. It's only 20-30$ to have it analyzed.
How much of the old fluid did you drain and how did you do it?
How did the old fluid look? Was it just sludge or was it milky...If nobody did a trans fluid change for 60k miles that's not exactly a good thing. They're supposed to be serviced at 40k. Send a sample of the old fluid to blackstone. It's only 20-30$ to have it analyzed.
How much of the old fluid did you drain and how did you do it?
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
My car doesn't move forward as quickly as other cars either. However, if I press the gas it gets going without any lag. If you're pressing the gas and nothing happens until you reach say 1500 RPMs then yeah that's clearly an issue haha.
How did the old fluid look? Was it just sludge or was it milky...If nobody did a trans fluid change for 60k miles that's not exactly a good thing. They're supposed to be serviced at 40k. Send a sample of the old fluid to blackstone. It's only 20-30$ to have it analyzed.
How much of the old fluid did you drain and how did you do it?
How did the old fluid look? Was it just sludge or was it milky...If nobody did a trans fluid change for 60k miles that's not exactly a good thing. They're supposed to be serviced at 40k. Send a sample of the old fluid to blackstone. It's only 20-30$ to have it analyzed.
How much of the old fluid did you drain and how did you do it?
But once it passes that there is no problem.
The old fluid was thick and dark. Not milky. Unfortunately I disposed of it.
I drained using the drain plug on the tranny and took the pan off. I replaced the filer and gasket. It drained just over 3 and a half quarts.
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
That's not even half the fluid. Do a bootleg transmission flush.
So basically disconnect one of the transmission lines at the radiator. I forget which one is the in and which one is the out...turn the car on and drain 1-2qt. Turn the car off and replenish what you just drained with new fluid. You'll need some extra fluid but otherwise it's pretty easy.
So basically disconnect one of the transmission lines at the radiator. I forget which one is the in and which one is the out...turn the car on and drain 1-2qt. Turn the car off and replenish what you just drained with new fluid. You'll need some extra fluid but otherwise it's pretty easy.
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
That's not even half the fluid. Do a bootleg transmission flush.
So basically disconnect one of the transmission lines at the radiator. I forget which one is the in and which one is the out...turn the car on and drain 1-2qt. Turn the car off and replenish what you just drained with new fluid. You'll need some extra fluid but otherwise it's pretty easy.
So basically disconnect one of the transmission lines at the radiator. I forget which one is the in and which one is the out...turn the car on and drain 1-2qt. Turn the car off and replenish what you just drained with new fluid. You'll need some extra fluid but otherwise it's pretty easy.
Thanks bro.
Will do and report back
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Update.
I started changing the oil as megacrazy suggested.
After running 10 quarts through, the oil that comes out still looks really bad. Here are some pics:
Original (out of can) color:
What is coming out after 10 quarts:
So, I'm gonna order more ATF and run it through until I get clear oil out of the other end. Will update soon.
I started changing the oil as megacrazy suggested.
After running 10 quarts through, the oil that comes out still looks really bad. Here are some pics:
Original (out of can) color:
What is coming out after 10 quarts:
So, I'm gonna order more ATF and run it through until I get clear oil out of the other end. Will update soon.
#18
MBWorld Fanatic!
We'll that fluid looks pretty old. Mine wasn't that dark when I took it out and not very thick either. I did the change at 40k. It was similar in color though.
Hopefully once you have all the old fluid out things go back to normal.
Hopefully once you have all the old fluid out things go back to normal.
#21
Junior Member
Thread Starter
It has 98k miles. I think the ATF has never been changed on it....
I am not sure if it is on winter mode!! How do you find that out?
#22
MBWorld Fanatic!
98K is not much..... should be fine. Just drain the fluid again. There is no winter or summer mode. It's the same as Sport/Comfort mode. W209 is S/C. I am in process of getting a CLK55 this week-end and will post some pix.
#24
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2001 CLK55 AMG
Early W209's have winter mode, you should have a button by your shifter that changes the trans modes... On my W208 it would feel like a delayed thud similar to what you're talking about and I can always tell now when I'm in winter mode because of that... The first time it happened I feared the worst.... Even though my trans is serviced religiously and otherwise perfect.
#25
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Early W209's have winter mode, you should have a button by your shifter that changes the trans modes... On my W208 it would feel like a delayed thud similar to what you're talking about and I can always tell now when I'm in winter mode because of that... The first time it happened I feared the worst.... Even though my trans is serviced religiously and otherwise perfect.