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Thank you kindly! I wasn't aware of the fluid-filled mounts. I'll look for anything out of place. misaligned body panels, etc. I'm done with my rusty Japanese cars. So the Mercedes must have minimal rust! I'm good with a welder, but I want a good car.
Where are there specific areas where they start to rust?
If possible, have the car put on a lift. Test drive the car and take it to an independent mechanic. Rust typically starts on the underside of the car before it moves to wheel arches, trunk lid and rest of body. Look for any fluid leaks and also look for rust.
When the car's up you can check for play in all 4 wheels both vertical and horizontal. You can also see what parts have been replaced recently. I typically prefer to purchase cars private party over a used car lot or dealer. Commonly dealers and car lots cover up problems and really don't fix anything. If you purchase private party you can at least ask for maintenance records so you know what's been done. Most dealers or lots claim the car was driven by a little old lady to and from church or some bs story. Keep in mind Carfax and Autocheck don't always have all accidents reported to them. There are special auto auctions that deal in low mileage cars that have been in accidents not reported to insurance.
My w208 was claimed to "never seen a winter". Upon inspection the car was really clean but had in fact seen a winter or two. Rust typically starts on susceptible suspension parts and bolts then moves to the body of the car. My car had no body rust but some beginning signs of corrosion on suspension parts.
Really, don’t skip the inspection to save a couple of hundred. If you get a 55 home and discover the front rotors are too thin (and they may be after two pad changes), your next post will be “where can I find rotors on the cheap?” By now, a lot of maintenance should also have been done. Lastly, if you skip the $200 to $300 that a dealer will want to inspect the car, at least check whether the CE light comes on when the key is in the second position and goes off when the car is started. Yes, some MB owners will pull the bulb for the CEL. If it was up to me, the CEL would have a bulb with an ultra-high UV rating. That way when a seller has an odd sunburn you’d have a clue as to what’s up.
Absolute lastsly - PLUG for Da Guitarist whose car looks like money.
I know as recently as two weeks ago, Da Guitarist had a supercharger kit for sale. Ask him how much for the car AND the kit.
I’ve never met Da Guitarist, couldn’t pick him out of a lineup, and he’s not paying me to say this - although, if he wants to send some cash, nobody on this end will turn it down.
Thanks again for all the information guys. I'm hoping they'll put the car up on a lift for me so I can look at it. I know from past experiences to turn the car to ACC and make sure all the lights illuminate. My E320 the previous owner pulled the check engine bulb. That was a good car despite its problems. W124 is a sweet chassis.
So far I'm using the reported accident on carfax and erratic LCD panel as leverage on the price. Tomorrow I am going to see this car, so I'll hopefully not be able to tell where the accident was. Hopefully it was so minor that nothing really happened.
I really liked my 208, but I love my 209. Still turns heads everywhere I go, both were/are fairly reliable. Remember, you can have these cars at Ford Focus prices, doesn't mean they have Ford Focus repair prices.
Hunt for an 05, and you won't be disappointed. Also, don't exclude a CLK550, it may not have the prestige of the AMG, but has nearly everything else though to a lesser extant.
I agree the W124 is sweet, It turns the road into a piece of glass, quiet, reliable and ready for sport driving.
The W124 was a merit to engineers who were allowed to stretch the rules. The W208 was designed off of the W124 and the Engineers did what they want anyway.
The AMG suspension takes some getting used to but the learning curve is worth it.
09-07-2014, 12:39 PM
