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I will soon do a front shock and control arm change and I just remembered that a friend indy mechanic that goes to my gym told me to change the strut mount also when changing the struts.
You mean the strut bearing? Right side of this pic:
visible from under the hood, top of the strut tower?
If you're changing the strut already that would be a perfect time to do them.
I've changed front strut springs a few times before on other cars but my CLK55 was the worst. The spring is coiled so tight I couldn't get the spring compressors in a good, safe place. I ended up assisting them with hose clamps.
I think they were $58/each from autohausaz.com P/N 87731A
Ignore the wife's couch cushions
Thank you ambit! I see you have on the picture some suspension parts did you do the control arm/strut change? How do results compare before and after..
hahahah.. yeah I did 'some work'
Start here https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...trol-arms.html
Steering requires more input effort now. Tracks nice and straight after the alignment. No more squeaking/clunking while cornering hard.
Car was wobbly/'greasy' in the turns at Mid Ohio racetrack in April, so now
I need to get out to GingerMan Raceway in July and see how it does.
Nice! I bet the car feels new! I had lots of car vibration and changed the engine mounts it feels so much smoother but theres a very little vibration at idle which I think the MAF might be the culprit but IM EAGER to update my cars front suspension it feels like a bicycle now LOL
05 CLK55 AMG (1 of 247) Cubanitsilber designo series
Originally Posted by ambit
You mean the strut bearing? Right side of this pic:
visible from under the hood, top of the strut tower?
If you're changing the strut already that would be a perfect time to do them.
I've changed front strut springs a few times before on other cars but my CLK55 was the worst. The spring is coiled so tight I couldn't get the spring compressors in a good, safe place. I ended up assisting them with hose clamps.
I think they were $58/each from autohausaz.com P/N 87731A
Ignore the wife's couch cushions
Ambit, I'm looking to replace my front springs and see in the pic that your spring has an Eibach and an AMG part number. Is this the stock 05 CLK spring off your CLK55? Is it the same part number do you know off the C55 as well? THanks in advance.
David
Last edited by floridawriter; Aug 16, 2015 at 12:52 PM.
Just for anyone else who see this thread that is not the correct spring compressor. You can see from the pictures above that this is not a safe way to remove Mercedes springs.
Is there supposed to be a small gap between this two?
Or do I need to find a way to find leverage and tight the nut with more torque.. Its real tight im holding the nut with a wrench in one hand and socket allen with the other using both hands to tighten the nut.
05 CLK55 AMG (1 of 247) Cubanitsilber designo series
I know you need to tighten the top strut nut with the car on the ground with full weight on the front axle. I think the nut needs around 50 ft lbs of torque.
05 CLK55 AMG (1 of 247) Cubanitsilber designo series
Originally Posted by insame1
Just for anyone else who see this thread that is not the correct spring compressor. You can see from the pictures above that this is not a safe way to remove Mercedes springs.
If you've been alert on my posts you can see ive been doing suspension work on my clk w209
Everything is set-up great. But after a test drive trying new suspension components (springs, shocks, control arm, sway bar links and tie rods) the ride is much smoother and firmer.
The service kit i bought included inner tie rod links aswell but i did not changed them... I started unmounting the tie rod ends and removing tie rod boot to get access to the part, and wow! The parts is very loose and messed up!
I would like info on how to remove it. Advice. I know theres a tool for it but im willing to hear other ways
steps:
1)remove tie rod end from steering knuckle
2)remove both clamps that keep the boot (you might need very thin long flat head to remove the back single use clamp)
3) Then you can use the special tie rod removal tool or... in my case I used wise-grips and firmly clamped it onto the tie rod and used my jack to lever up the wise grips to loosen the axial joint.
if anyone need steps pictures.. I could do a write-up..
I will post tomorrow the before and after test of how the car feels on the road after being aligned.
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