Will do Strut change soon..
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Will do Strut change soon..
Hello!
I will soon do a front shock and control arm change and I just remembered that a friend indy mechanic that goes to my gym told me to change the strut mount also when changing the struts.
I want to hear what you guys think about this..
I will soon do a front shock and control arm change and I just remembered that a friend indy mechanic that goes to my gym told me to change the strut mount also when changing the struts.
I want to hear what you guys think about this..
#2
Super Member
You mean the strut bearing? Right side of this pic:
visible from under the hood, top of the strut tower?
If you're changing the strut already that would be a perfect time to do them.
I've changed front strut springs a few times before on other cars but my CLK55 was the worst. The spring is coiled so tight I couldn't get the spring compressors in a good, safe place. I ended up assisting them with hose clamps.
I think they were $58/each from autohausaz.com P/N 87731A
Ignore the wife's couch cushions
visible from under the hood, top of the strut tower?
If you're changing the strut already that would be a perfect time to do them.
I've changed front strut springs a few times before on other cars but my CLK55 was the worst. The spring is coiled so tight I couldn't get the spring compressors in a good, safe place. I ended up assisting them with hose clamps.
I think they were $58/each from autohausaz.com P/N 87731A
Ignore the wife's couch cushions
Last edited by ambit; 05-23-2015 at 10:40 PM.
#6
Super Member
hahahah.. yeah I did 'some work'
Start here
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...trol-arms.html
Steering requires more input effort now. Tracks nice and straight after the alignment. No more squeaking/clunking while cornering hard.
Car was wobbly/'greasy' in the turns at Mid Ohio racetrack in April, so now
I need to get out to GingerMan Raceway in July and see how it does.
And
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk55-amg...or-mounts.html
Replaced front strut bearings
Replaced front sway bar bushings
Replaced front sway bar links
Replaced transmission mount
Might do the engine mounts this summer, not looking forward to it
Start here
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...trol-arms.html
Steering requires more input effort now. Tracks nice and straight after the alignment. No more squeaking/clunking while cornering hard.
Car was wobbly/'greasy' in the turns at Mid Ohio racetrack in April, so now
I need to get out to GingerMan Raceway in July and see how it does.
And
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk55-amg...or-mounts.html
Replaced front strut bearings
Replaced front sway bar bushings
Replaced front sway bar links
Replaced transmission mount
Might do the engine mounts this summer, not looking forward to it
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Nice! I bet the car feels new! I had lots of car vibration and changed the engine mounts it feels so much smoother but theres a very little vibration at idle which I think the MAF might be the culprit but IM EAGER to update my cars front suspension it feels like a bicycle now LOL
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#8
Senior Member
You mean the strut bearing? Right side of this pic:
visible from under the hood, top of the strut tower?
If you're changing the strut already that would be a perfect time to do them.
I've changed front strut springs a few times before on other cars but my CLK55 was the worst. The spring is coiled so tight I couldn't get the spring compressors in a good, safe place. I ended up assisting them with hose clamps.
I think they were $58/each from autohausaz.com P/N 87731A
Ignore the wife's couch cushions
visible from under the hood, top of the strut tower?
If you're changing the strut already that would be a perfect time to do them.
I've changed front strut springs a few times before on other cars but my CLK55 was the worst. The spring is coiled so tight I couldn't get the spring compressors in a good, safe place. I ended up assisting them with hose clamps.
I think they were $58/each from autohausaz.com P/N 87731A
Ignore the wife's couch cushions
David
Last edited by floridawriter; 08-16-2015 at 12:52 PM.
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
Just for anyone else who see this thread that is not the correct spring compressor. You can see from the pictures above that this is not a safe way to remove Mercedes springs.
I am not selling anything or affiliated with the above link.
I am not selling anything or affiliated with the above link.
#12
Member
Thread Starter
Is there supposed to be a small gap between this two?
Or do I need to find a way to find leverage and tight the nut with more torque.. Its real tight im holding the nut with a wrench in one hand and socket allen with the other using both hands to tighten the nut.
Or do I need to find a way to find leverage and tight the nut with more torque.. Its real tight im holding the nut with a wrench in one hand and socket allen with the other using both hands to tighten the nut.
Last edited by Dmtypr; 08-19-2015 at 08:50 PM.
#14
Member
Thread Starter
#15
Senior Member
I know you need to tighten the top strut nut with the car on the ground with full weight on the front axle. I think the nut needs around 50 ft lbs of torque.
#16
Senior Member
Just for anyone else who see this thread that is not the correct spring compressor. You can see from the pictures above that this is not a safe way to remove Mercedes springs.
Amazon.com: Mercedes Suspension Coil Spring Compressor Tool Kit Set: Automotive
I am not selling anything or affiliated with the above link.
Amazon.com: Mercedes Suspension Coil Spring Compressor Tool Kit Set: Automotive
I am not selling anything or affiliated with the above link.
#17
Member
Thread Starter
Tie rod change (help)
Hello again!
If you've been alert on my posts you can see ive been doing suspension work on my clk w209
Everything is set-up great. But after a test drive trying new suspension components (springs, shocks, control arm, sway bar links and tie rods) the ride is much smoother and firmer.
The service kit i bought included inner tie rod links aswell but i did not changed them... I started unmounting the tie rod ends and removing tie rod boot to get access to the part, and wow! The parts is very loose and messed up!
I would like info on how to remove it. Advice. I know theres a tool for it but im willing to hear other ways
If you've been alert on my posts you can see ive been doing suspension work on my clk w209
Everything is set-up great. But after a test drive trying new suspension components (springs, shocks, control arm, sway bar links and tie rods) the ride is much smoother and firmer.
The service kit i bought included inner tie rod links aswell but i did not changed them... I started unmounting the tie rod ends and removing tie rod boot to get access to the part, and wow! The parts is very loose and messed up!
I would like info on how to remove it. Advice. I know theres a tool for it but im willing to hear other ways
#19
Member
Thread Starter
Managed to get around it!
pretty simple process.
steps:
1)remove tie rod end from steering knuckle
2)remove both clamps that keep the boot (you might need very thin long flat head to remove the back single use clamp)
3) Then you can use the special tie rod removal tool or... in my case I used wise-grips and firmly clamped it onto the tie rod and used my jack to lever up the wise grips to loosen the axial joint.
if anyone need steps pictures.. I could do a write-up..
I will post tomorrow the before and after test of how the car feels on the road after being aligned.
pretty simple process.
steps:
1)remove tie rod end from steering knuckle
2)remove both clamps that keep the boot (you might need very thin long flat head to remove the back single use clamp)
3) Then you can use the special tie rod removal tool or... in my case I used wise-grips and firmly clamped it onto the tie rod and used my jack to lever up the wise grips to loosen the axial joint.
if anyone need steps pictures.. I could do a write-up..
I will post tomorrow the before and after test of how the car feels on the road after being aligned.