Very Nice, Really looks Genuine..

ZAYED,,

 

I'm tying to figure out if a tune on my '01 55 is even worth it. I know there is a difference in throttle response, but does that "feel" equate to a faster car? I only want to do mods that increase performance, not just brag about horsepower. I like the performance of my '01, would love to get a little more out of it without going down the exhaust/headers route. I don't want mine any louder then stock. Let me know if you truly feel the tune was worth it.

Great thread by the way

 

Thanks, Zayed!

EDIT: Just ordered top trim and door card trim.

I just ordered top dash wood trim, and am looking for matching upper door card trim as well. My center console is a different type of wood, so I suppose this process is a bit of an update. Also, does anyone know a good place to get JUST the power outlet? The one in my dash does not work, and I would like to be able to use my radar detector.

CLKRob, I noticed a bigger difference in the CLK than the C300. Given the advertised gains are less for the W204 than the AMG, but this increase/change was noticeable. If you allow the car to adapt over the course of a couple days, I do not see how a flash loaded, OETuning-type tune, would not net gains. I'd say it goes beyond just a feeling of responsiveness; there are actual whp gains. Gains were always more important to me than anything else, so I wouldn't have spend the money if I was not reasonably sure the tune would do something.

Alternatively, there is a tuner in New England, Mike Botti, who can dyno tune this chassis and will likely net higher gains than a canned tune. That's another option to consider if you're looking at headers. Maybe you can install the headers and work with a local, reputable, tuner who can tailor the adjustments to your car. The catback is not incredibly restrictive on these cars, though it is quiet; the piping is surprisingly large for a stock system.

What brand header are you considering? As you know, there isn't too much demand for W208 performance parts, so manufacturers charge more to make a return on their investment. As a result, Kleeman is super pricey in terms of hardware and tuning. A dyno tune would be less expensive. Some people also run off-brand headers, such as OBX, etc. Which way are you leaning?

 

No exhaust or headers, I like how quiet these V8's are. I have a Syclone that's loud enough. I was hoping to just get a nice tune and maybe some kind of CAI, but it doesn't look like those are available

 

Ahh, gotcha. I misunderstood. Outside of an actual dyno tune, OEtuning is the most affordable bet. I think all of the canned tunes are pretty similar.

In terms of an intake, I'd avoid the oiled filters. I've had them on other cars, and it's hit or miss. I'd do either a dry filter, or just a nice set of OE replacements. Renntech makes an airbox that supposedly adds about 10whp, but it's ~$1200-1500, and that's crazy. I can't think of commercially sold CAI setup. Even if you did a custom setup you'd probably experience greater heat soak, or need to retune b/c of the change from panel to cone filters.

 

the intakes on these cars are setup quite nice on how the pull exterior air from behind the grille. most cars have the air coming in from the hot engine compartment.

i cut out the secondary cats and resonators on my C43, it sounds great but i will probably leave the exhaust on this car as-is. just one less thing to mess with when its pretty good on its own.

after driving mine for a bit i dont think i will ever get a tune, its pretty damn powerful, more than you ever need on the street in my opinion. but i will be tracking mine so i will be working to get it to handle and stop better. mostly starting with shocks, springs, tires and brake pads.

 

Hey guys, so fun morning. I started the car to warm it up, and came out 10 minutes later to find that it shut off on its own. Odd. When I went to drive, I noticed a CEL, and got the codes shown below.

I did a quick google search, and it seems this indicates a MAF failure? The car does hesitate at low rpm. Any suggestions? This came out of no where. Aside from cleaning it with MAF spray, what else can I do to fix the problem? With MAF failure does one typically need just the insert, or the whole part? I am getting a bit tired of constantly spending money on the car. The P0700 code is tranny related, but it's likely an old code from the conductor plate, or its bc of hesitation induced by the failing MAF.

 

Yeah, seems like bad MAF film, you can use insert as well,,

but be careFUL, don't go with any crap aftermarket brands, just stick with OEM/Bosch..

ZAYED,,

 

Damnit, this never ends ... : -)

 

Now the trunk won't open. It opened 15 minutes ago. This is getting ridiculous.

 

Try to be inside the car, then closed the doors through the looking button, you may hearing the PSE vacuum pump screaming..!!

ZAYED,,

 

Alright, so I'm rewriting this with what I do know so far:
-The trunk accepts the key, but the key cannot turn from side-to-side
-I assume the controller on the inside of the driver/passenger seats is for the active bolsters? That doesn't work.
-The headrest dash button works
-The dash door locking button works
-The key lock and unlock buttons work
-The gas cap works
-The dash button for the trunk has never worked since I've owned the car, but the trunk did work until now. Are they connected?
-The trunk makes NO noise inside or outside the car

Can I JUST change out the part on the PSE responsible for the trunk? Is that serviceable? If so, who sells lines, etc?

I found this diagram. Can I replace whatever is the trunk component on the PSE?

 

Maybe your PSE pump is OK, should to see if trunk mechanism stuck or mechanism cable got loose..!!

ZAYED,,

 

Hey guys, so a slight update.

I am having issues with my MAF, and finally got the opportunity to get under the hood and take a look around. It's been cold, snowy, and miserable here (Ohio), so I haven't had much time to work on the car. I popped the hood and disconnected the MAF to see if the car ran better, and it did. There is still hesitation at increased throttle angles (probably because the MAF is disconnected!), but it's much smoother. Smoother running with a disconnected MAF is typically an indication that the sensor is failing. With more time, I would mess around with my multimeter for a better diagnosis, but this will do. Oddly enough, the housing and insert do NOT look original, but I didn't remove it to try and get a part number. Either way, it's obvious it's not the first time there's been a failure.

Also, upon initial inspection, the sensor on the insert seemed to be about an 1/8 of the inch from being fully seated up against the female end. There are no broken clips, but it made me wonder if that was a potential cause for the unexpected MAF issues. I already ordered a replacement MAF because I don't have time to mess around with MAF cleaner, etc., and I heard there is only a ~50% success rate with that tactic; I'd rather just get it out of the way.

I ordered this part:
The culprit:






Does anyone know what I need to do to remove the metal clip at the end of the MAF housing, closest to the firewall? I tried messing with it, but didn't want to break anything. I've watched about 5 clips on MB MAF removal, but none were for an AMG M113 with the dual intakes, just an E430.


On another note, I want to thank tw2 and floridawriter for encouraging me to redo the breather gaskets. The photos below should show all why this is necessary.






There are clear oil leak from the sealant on both banks, so here is what I ordered:

Victor Reinz valve cover gaskets (not OEM, but this car is bankrupting me)
I ordered this set. Crazy how much cheaper it is than MB. I went with Victor Reinz because it was the only brand I read good things about that wasn't OEM:

OEM breather parts:
Screws for the breather covers (6x, just to be safe, they're soft)
-000000004436
4 breather hoses that typically crack
-1120180482
-1120180282
-1120180182
-1120180382
Hose connectors (3x)
-1179901578
Crankcase breather rubber connector
-1120180209
MB sealant (was told to avoid using any other brand)
-003989982010

Here is a screen shot of what I paid aside from the cost of the valve covers:




This should be a nice project. I'll likely work to fix the MAF first then tackle this in early March when I have more time.


For those of you following the coolant leak, I finally found it:






Does anyone have any suggestions? The hose is supposedly new, and a replacement from MB is $92, so I'd like to avoid that. Why is it leaking with the clamp on there? It only really leaks when the car gets hot, and the tstat kicks in.

Finally, someone capped off the line from the windshield washer tank. Why? What an odd car...
cm60k, I'll mess with the PSE and the trunk soon. Too many small, dumb, things on this AMG. Also, the wood trim should be here soon, so it'll all match. I'm excited.

 

The silver clip on the MAF is stubborn but it pops right off if you pry it with a flathead screw driver. Nothing will break. As for your coolant leak troubles, the lower radiator hose was major culprit when I did my 55 swap. I replaced that but still had a leak. Turned out that the hose connected to the coolant reservoir was leaking as well. It was a slow leak and would trickle down the hose which made me think the leak was somewhere else. Hope this helps.

 

Victor Reinz WILL LEAK. DO NOT use them. There is a thread on sealing the valve and breather covers in the W209 CLK section (7-8 pages), multiple people have had to redo the job due to using their gaskets and immediately bought MB which sealed fine. Victor Reinz are too thin. I would recommend not doing the job and waiting for funds to accumulate.

 

Hey man. Sorry to read about all your mishaps. I guess these are common with old cars but I guarantee you, once you through it, the car will keep you satisfied for years of service to come. Thanks for the photos and info on the DIYs that you are tackling. All the best.

 

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...k-plugs-6.html

 

Ahhhh, fair enough. I will order the OEM gaskets tonight, and return the Victor Reinz set!

 

Re: Victor Reinz valve cover gaskets - DON'T use them, they WILL leak after you finish the installation and you'll just have to redo the work. Buy the OEM gaskets only.
RE: the radiator hose leak - looks to me that someone cranked on the hose clamp and cracked the plastic hose barb. Do yourself a favor and just change out the radiator. THey are cheap by MB standards and relatively easy to change.
Re: Breather covers - be very careful with the cover screws, they only torque to around 6 ft pounds. Be sure you have a accurate calibrated torque wrench, as they will strip if you look at them wrong.

 

Great dedication and hard work. How hard was the Fuel Filter ?.
I was listening to a mechanic to fix a Long Crank time !! Spent lot of money too>>>
The solution was just a $7 Fuel pump relay replacement.
Now i am thinking of doing the fuel filter too.

 

My car was throwing a hard code for the MAF, one of the most difficult inputs to test.

There are many variables that include compression, intake/exhaust leaks and sealing of the sensor it self, ignition system woes like plugs wires and coils.

Looks like you have done your homework with most of the W208 CLK 55 common problems.

Hats off,
I fixed a number of strange problems after replacing the MAF. OEM Bosch from www.Autohausaz.com as well.
Letting a fuel filter go that long will weaken if not take the pump out. Just a heads up from experience.

To remove that clip, wiggle the entire assembly off the intake manifold, there are two plastic guides one is picture the other on the bottom. Put the assembly on the table and apply pressure to the tang while gently prying from the loop (photo). It is a SOB but it will come apart.

Best, Gator

 

Guys, a minor update. I went ahead and ordered the OEM valve cover gaskets. Though the set on there isn't currently leaking, it's probably a good idea to take care of it when I'm doing the breather gaskets.

floridawriter and tw2:




floridwriter, this is the part number I found for the OEM radiator. Any idea if it's correct?
2025007803 - The quote is $216 from https://www.getmercedesparts.com/oem...des-parts.html Which seems a lot cheaper than other sites, and even OE parts. Weird. I may do this.

JustIs and GatorMB, thanks for your help with the MAF. I certainly hopes that solves the hesitation issue. The codes do seem to indicate this is the issue. As for the fuel pump, the MB part number I have is: 0004707894, is that correct?

It's listed for $284 OEM and $162.72 through Bosch (Part# 67968). Is there any reason why I should avoid the cheaper Bosch pump? It's so damn easy to change there's little reason not to swap it out.

Zafarmd, though I didn't do it myself, the fuel filter was very easy to access and change. Thankfully it's external and right next to the pump. It's by the rear right wheel.

In other news, my door strips came in for the wood trim, and I ordered an external mic to capture the engine/exhaust better in future videos along with a spark plug removal tool, just in case.





Here is the current mismatched wood combo:




Here is what's going in:




One of the strips seems to be a bit warped. Any ideas for 'helping' it back into place? Should I stick this in the microwave for a while?




Finally, has anyone here deleted their cats? I was advised to neck down the replacement pipes in order to retain back pressure. I would tune for the lack of cats, but what have others done?

 

Also factory radiator 186.00 at Parts.com https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuse...LITER-RADIATOR

 

I thought AMGs came with the black birdseye trim not burlwood.