PKSlice

Guys, I have a 2002 CLK55 AMG. I noticed when closing the passenger door with the roof down and windows up, the door glass hits the back side glass making a clanking sound. Upon closer examination I can see that the door glass does not mate up with the vertical rubber strip on the back side glass, but it actually overlaps the back window about 1/2" and hits the plastic trim. The car is straight, no rust and not been an accident so I am attributing it to body and frame sag as it's 15 years old. The door hinge is tight, no slop if I lift up on the door, and the glass sits nicely in the A-pillar channel. Is there any way to adjust the windows positions? Could it be the regulator assembly needs to be shifted up/forward a little? Obviously everything has to seal up watertight on the other edges. There is no water infiltration or wind noise right now, just that irritating clanking sound as the glass hits when closing the door. Odd that it would be on the passenger door which gets used much less than drivers door.


Also I noticed the quick auto-up (where the window retracts abut 1/4" upon exiting) works but it does not move vertically as much as drivers door...

GatorMB

My car does this too and it will get the best of you.

One of two things might be happening here.

The drivers door window regulator is shot - try to pull up and push down on the glass with the door open to test for play in the cable. Mine has this.

The other thing that happens is the rear window stop breaks and the rear window comes up a bit high. The angle of the glass forces them to collide.

Worst case scenario is worn door hinges if either of these do not help.

Hope this helps a bit.

PKSlice

You are correct. The front window does not have any more play than the "good" window on the other side so I measured both rear windows. The one that collides with the front window goes up 1/4" too much higher which places the rubber trim too far forward so the front window hits the rear glass when I close the door. I can see the rear window is higher than the front window 1/4".


I rolled the rear window down 1/4" and both windows meet up nicely and the rubber seals against the glass.


So you mentioned rear window upper "stops" that break? Where are they and did you replace yours? Anyone remove the rear interior panel? I don't want to break any plastic.




Thanks.

GatorMB

I read about the window stop in the CLK W208 non AMG forum. There are alot of helpful friends there.
The sticky thread is terrible because it leads people to post problems. I try to post helpful DIY links in the sticky when I find them.
Post your fix and it will help others.

Best, Gator

PKSlice

Gator, I try to search the threads for solutions but do not seem to be able to string 2 words together in the search box. For example when I search "window stop" I get thousands of results containing the words "window" and "stop" so it makes searching difficult. Am I doing it wrong or is this site just really weak for search functions?

PKSlice

Okay I figured out how to access the window regulator stop clip. It is well hidden! Also I figured out how to replace the part without dropping into the body cavity of doom. Reply to this thread or message me and I will explain all. One side done and it works perfect. Part is only $18 at MB. Now, onto the other side!

GatorMB

PK Thats Great,

Let us know what you found. W part number.
I am sure I will be in for a nightmare as cabs doors are shrouded well.

Best Gator

PKSlice

Finally something reasonably priced from MB, only $13

Okay so to do this repair you need to purchase "rear window regulator stop" MB part # SS208-673-03-12 price is about $13 each at MB. They are about the size of a book of matches. Suggest ordering 1 extra in case you irretrievably drop one into the chasm of doom body shell. Also get a few of the plastic plugs that hold the inner side panel in place as they tend to break when pulling the panels off.


To do the fix the rear seat bottom & back has to come out. Seat bottom just pulls up with a good tug. Seat back has 4 bolts kind of hiding in each corner, plus some hidden screws: 2 under the back of the armest centre cubby (peel back "press-fit" liner down from upper edge to expose screws). The other screw is hiding under the little trap door for the optional windscreen. The trim for it pops out with a pic tool (the tabs hinge at the bottom so pic/pull from the top on each side and it will pop out to reveal the retaining screw). After that the side panels will yank free as they are only held in place with typical plastic plugs.


Then carefully pull off the inner and outer window rubber trim to give you some room to work. It will open up to about 3/4" gap which is just enough space to work. The outer metal trim also is just press fit so use a plastic spatula or something that will not harm the paintwork. **take note of how the rubber/felt was oriented because it's possible to reinstall upside down and then when your done with windows will bind and not close and then you have to take it all apart again and refit the trim don't ask me now I know**


Once the interior panels are off you will see a confusing mess of body metal and cannot see said broken window stop. That's because it is hiding in-between the metal panels but fear not, if you look straight down into the window gap you will see the broken part residing about 2" down in the window gap. Adjacent to it is an access hole to get at the retaining bolt.


Two tips: buy some small needlenose vice grips to grab hold of the window stop so it cannot fall into the bottomless window cavity, and also put some goopey glue onto the end of your Torx bit so the bolt does not fall into same yawning cavity to be forever lost. When you reinstall the new window stop (using the vice grips!) place it at the bottom position and tighten sung but loose enough that it can move up into desired position as you slowly raise the rear window to align with the door glass. Then tighten fully, reassemble your interior, open a beer and sit in the back seat to gaze lovingly at the newly aligning windows and marvel at your mechanical prowess.

PKSlice

New stop in front, old broken stop at back


The window stop is at the top, but this side faces IN against the outer body skin, so you cannot see it.

PKSlice

Vice grips holding window stop, torx bolt removed. Note how there is a slot for bolt, to adjust height of stop.

PKSlice

PKSlice

PKSlice

GatorMB

I like it, Nice write up.
I will be tackling this project in the summer hopefully.
Putting a link to this in the W208 DIY stickey.

PKSlice

After spending about 26 hours researching and learning, fix takes about 2 hours to do everything to both sides and put it all back together again!

hadam

PKSlice, thank you so much Sir, your DIY was very helpful. I replace both rear window stop. It took me 3 hours. It was little difficult to hold the window stop with small needle nose vice grips and install from inside the bolt in it.

It is a bad design by Mercedes engineering. It should not take 3 hours to change 2 window stops.

I have to remove rear bottom seat and rear back seat cushions. I left the seat belt on and did not removed them. Just pull the rear panel out to get some room to work on it. I did un lose the far back bolt on the panel so I can swing it out.

Thank you again for your DIY, was very helpful. God Bless You have a good 2021 Holidays.

hadam