W208 CLK55 AMG M113 Supercharge Conversion HELP
1. The ECU situation.
VRP says the current method of doing this conversion is to use an ECU out of an M113K. So, I am currently talking with Eurocharged about having a stock M113K ECU reflashed with my vehicles VIN.
2. The Boost Situation
I, as many may be, was concerned about the amount of boost this kit runs. I've been informed that it runs the stock 11 psi with stock headers, but depending on the year the motor was made and the exhaust setup, it could be as low as 8psi. Either way, it sounds safe to me.
3. The Fuel Situation
I have read through the forum and many have said that the fuel pump/injectors will need to be upgraded. I planned on upgrading to VRP's 550cc injectors. (I've also heard that the stock injectors and fuel pump run just fine up to 500hp, so I am confused)
What about the stock W208 CLK55 fuel pump though? Mine is actually bad and if I am going to order a replacement, I would rather upgrade it now rather than spend the extra money on a fuel pump I'll replace in a month.
I have heard about the fuel pressure regulator being in the filter, which only allows roughly 4 bar. So, if I run an upgraded pump with the same 4 bar FPR, would the 550cc injectors still spray the same amount of fuel? (should still be 55-58psi in the rail right?)
Solution to Fuel:
Adjustable DW FPR and Fuel Filter
Bosch -044 Pump
Will post pictures of the set-up with a diagram later.
Last edited by Kaleb Bailey; Dec 21, 2022 at 01:04 PM.
I would tackle the fuel pump/filter issue first - get the car running with your N/A motor on a fuel pump/filter that will support the eventual supercharger and bigger injectors. You will have to do some research to figure out how much fuel flow you will eventually need to support the horsepower you want, then find a pump, filter, and regulator that will work. A good place to start is the fuel flow calculator on the Injector Dynamics website: http://injectordynamics.com/injector-selector/
To keep things simple I would try to find a filter/regulator from another car that has the same pressure (80psi?) but can handle more flow than the stock NA m113 filter in the W208. Did any of the M113k cars come with external fuel pumps? You might be able to do an external adjustable regulator with a Bosch -044 pump and a generic aftermarket filter. You'll have to get creative.
I had seen on another thread that a 2010 VW GTI filter comes as a unit with the regulator like our cars, but allows 6 bar (which is roughly 86psi I believe?), which would make hook-up a lot easier, but far less adjustable. As far as I am aware, there were no M113K with external fuel pumps.
I was attempting to fix the car with the upgraded fuel pump, stock filter, stock injectors, so that when I begin doing the upgrades and supercharge kit, I would not need to order the fuel pump. I've chosen to replace it with a cheap OEM replacement for now (should only need to last a month or 2 before I finally park the car for the season and begin the build process).
Currently have an M113K ECU, Engine wiring Harness, and STAR/Xentry Programmer on the way. I should be able to order and receive the rest of the parts over the next month and begin building within the first week of December.
This is just the beginning for this car, as I plan to do a 3.06 gear&pinion swap, Quaife LSD, TCU Tune, and a couple other things in the first half of next year. Does anyone know if it is possible to change the final drive ratio programmatically with the Xentry/STAR program? or does it require a different program?
I have been documenting everything so far in terms of parts ordered and the exact cost I paid. When I begin the build, I plan to make videos with step-by-step!
I have received the Xentry/STAR programmer, software, wiring harness, and ECU!
I have ordered the 635cc injectors from VRP.
I have also ordered the M113 Conversion Kit from VRP with the split-cooling kit they sell with it. (Includes bosch pump, reservoir, and heat exchanger)
The rest of the parts (pretty much just fuel pump, regulator, etc) will be ordered next Thursday.
Anyone know what the stock rear axles are rated for? I am aware it's probably the first thing to break on the car when pushing power but want to make sure they'll be ok at 500 to 550whp. The plan is to get quotes for carbon fiber axles (pricey) but should easily take 1000whp while reducing drive train loss.
Trending Topics
I have received the split cooling kit
I have also received the 630cc injectors with the harness adapter.
VRP is still working on shipping out the pulleys and other things from the actual conversion kit on their site, so I will keep y'all posted.
Next week on Monday I will be ordering Moscow Supercharge LTH, an OEM throttle body, the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, and a boost gauge!
Additionally, I will be taking off the nitrous kit I currently have on the car and selling it. AND A BONUS: I just purchased an absolutely mint 2002 E320 4MATIC in silver with the Dish looking mercedes wheels to be my new daily driver.
Hope everyone has a good thanksgiving and I can't wait to start this build in a couple weeks!
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
1. The ECU situation.
VRP says the current method of doing this conversion is to use an ECU out of an M113K. So, I am currently talking with Eurocharged about having a stock M113K ECU reflashed with my vehicles VIN.
2. The Boost Situation
I, as many may be, was concerned about the amount of boost this kit runs. I've been informed that it runs the stock 11 psi with stock headers, but depending on the year the motor was made and the exhaust setup, it could be as low as 8psi. Either way, it sounds safe to me.
3. The Fuel Situation (This is where I need advice/help)
I have read through the forum and many have said that the fuel pump/injectors will need to be upgraded. I planned on upgrading to VRP's 550cc injectors. (I've also heard that the stock injectors and fuel pump run just fine up to 500hp, so I am confused)
What about the stock W208 CLK55 fuel pump though? Mine is actually bad and if I am going to order a replacement, I would rather upgrade it now rather than spend the extra money on a fuel pump I'll replace in a month.
I have heard about the fuel pressure regulator being in the filter, which only allows roughly 4 bar. So, if I run an upgraded pump with the same 4 bar FPR, would the 550cc injectors still spray the same amount of fuel? (should still be 55-58psi in the rail right?)
What Fuel Pressure Regulator did you end up using? I am unsure if I should get on that allows for boost reference or not. Tuning and other, I am not worried about because of the programmer I have. Let me know if this is something you have some info on!
I am hoping to have all parts by this Friday (12/9/2022) and will begin the build regardless on Saturday (12/10/2022). I am currently waiting on VRP to send the custom machined pulley and some other stuff including block-off plates for the SAI. I am also waiting on the fuel tank to fuel pump line to come in.
However, I will begin the whole front end of the project, including having 99% of the fuel system hooked up and routed. Updates may slow down to allow myself more time to thoroughly write up a guide with pictures, videos, receipts, etc.
I am hoping to have all parts by this Friday (12/9/2022) and will begin the build regardless on Saturday (12/10/2022). I am currently waiting on VRP to send the custom machined pulley and some other stuff including block-off plates for the SAI. I am also waiting on the fuel tank to fuel pump line to come in.
However, I will begin the whole front end of the project, including having 99% of the fuel system hooked up and routed. Updates may slow down to allow myself more time to thoroughly write up a guide with pictures, videos, receipts, etc.
Currently waiting on receiving the fuel pump supply line from the tank (coming today) and the VRP SAI block-off plates (also arriving today). I reached out to VRP regarding the pulley and they are hoping to have it shipped out to me before Christmas, so it looks like I will not be able to have it running and driving this weekend. However, 99% of the work will already be done.
The project begins early tomorrow morning!
Project has begun. Current progress is:
Front bumper removed (needs prep for supercharger heat exchanger)
Wiring Harness removed
ECU removed
Stock Intake Manifold removed
Fuel rail removed
New 630cc Injectors installed on stock fuel rail
Fuel pump removed
Fuel filter removed
Need to finish running the fuel feed line (-8AN and E85 compatible)
Need to begin running the fuel return line + tap the tank (-8AN and E85 compatible)
Need to hook up new fuel pump, fuel filter, and FPR
Need to install Supercharger Pulley
Need to do Supercharger oil change + install supercharger
Need to install fuel rail
Overall, making some good progress but I am definitely going slower than I originally wanted to. However, shipping times being delayed have allowed me to slow down and be more patient. I will give a full write-up at the end of this project to explain any and all problems I ran into and how I diagnosed and solved them.
I am hoping to have all parts by this Friday (12/9/2022) and will begin the build regardless on Saturday (12/10/2022). I am currently waiting on VRP to send the custom machined pulley and some other stuff including block-off plates for the SAI. I am also waiting on the fuel tank to fuel pump line to come in.
However, I will begin the whole front end of the project, including having 99% of the fuel system hooked up and routed. Updates may slow down to allow myself more time to thoroughly write up a guide with pictures, videos, receipts, etc.
best regards Alex
I appreciate the info! From what I hear the rods and current set-up should allow for around 550whp without compromising reliability too much. However anything after is risky waters.
I am aware the bracket needs to be cut lower, but I am awaiting for the custom pulley to arrive as it removes the supercharger clutch anyways which significantly reduces the amount of room I need for clearance. I also have a kit to keep the supercharger on its own closed cooling loop with the heat exchanger.
My current issue I could use some help with is where to route the fuel lines. I am upgrading to -8AN braided line, but I am limited in head space as I have no lift. Removing the driveshaft, exhaust, etc is something I am heavily trying to avoid so I was trying to run line through the rocker. Unfortunately, the rocker will not allow me to run the line all the way to the rear unless I run between metal frame and the actual fiber-glass side skirt. I am tempted to use the side skirt as a place to tuck the new line, but I am also aware of the dangers that brings so I am seeing if I can find a better way. Any help is appreciated with that.
Also where you reference "RV10" vs RV11", are you talking about the compression ratio?
Thanks!
Additionally, I have found a solution to my fuel routing issue. Through extensive research, I learned it is in fact safe to run a solid SS braided PTFE line through the interior (no connections in the interior, just straight line) so I will be going up through the trunk and the interior out the front firewall by the fuse box. I will take pictures to show the routing when I begin work on it soon. It will also keep it out of the elements and allow it operate safely and efficiently, while keeping it hidden from under the car.
I appreciate the info! From what I hear the rods and current set-up should allow for around 550whp without compromising reliability too much. However anything after is risky waters.
I am aware the bracket needs to be cut lower, but I am awaiting for the custom pulley to arrive as it removes the supercharger clutch anyways which significantly reduces the amount of room I need for clearance. I also have a kit to keep the supercharger on its own closed cooling loop with the heat exchanger.
My current issue I could use some help with is where to route the fuel lines. I am upgrading to -8AN braided line, but I am limited in head space as I have no lift. Removing the driveshaft, exhaust, etc is something I am heavily trying to avoid so I was trying to run line through the rocker. Unfortunately, the rocker will not allow me to run the line all the way to the rear unless I run between metal frame and the actual fiber-glass side skirt. I am tempted to use the side skirt as a place to tuck the new line, but I am also aware of the dangers that brings so I am seeing if I can find a better way. Any help is appreciated with that.
Also where you reference "RV10" vs RV11", are you talking about the compression ratio?
Thanks!
A++++




Best of luck and Merry Christmas! looking forward to updates as you go
Best of luck and Merry Christmas! looking forward to updates as you go


