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Under Hood Temps

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Old 02-17-2011, 07:20 PM
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Vath ML63 Brabus C63 SL63 CLK63BS C63BS
I would definately be interested in a hood like this for my BS, just form aesthetic benefits alone. Please let me know if it could be produced for sale? VERY interested
Old 02-17-2011, 10:45 PM
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I will have a vented hood on my car while at Sebring next week. The last time I was there was in August and I had issues with the oil temp exceeding 280 and of course limp mode enabled. The ambiant air temps are going to be much cooler at a February event but it will still be interesting to see how much cooler the car runs.
Old 02-18-2011, 12:05 AM
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Just a quick mention, the hood liner material is yet another thing we often don't hear about with the way MB builds so much into these cars and we don't know to appreciated it; the liner will release a fire retardant if there is an engine fire. Service guys showed me something about it, and said sometimes customer paint theirs to cover over the salt splash blems (here in cold snowy Minnesota) and he tells customers now to avoid doing this ahead of time. No I did not hear anyone talk about painting their liner here, just thought it interesting while talking about hoods and such.
Old 03-31-2011, 08:13 PM
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Carbon hood update.

The hood is being shipped. Photos are pretty bad. From these I wish the vent edges were not as pronounced. Will have to reserve full judgement until it is on the car painted. Last photo does not show vent mesh that is present.



Old 03-31-2011, 08:19 PM
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This looks very promising, please let us all know about fitment ! Well done Won!
Old 03-31-2011, 10:40 PM
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If you truly want to lower your engine bay heat by 50% or more the only real way is to ceramic coat the stock manifolds (both inside & outside preferably). This will drastically reduce engine bay heat thereby improving stock cooling and lowering both oil & coolant temps. It will also allow the stock radiator to function better as well.

The only possible drawback to this is your stock primary cats will get significantly hotter now that all the heat is being channeled directly into the cats instead of being dissipated into the engine bay as it naturally would. Whether or not this shortens the life of the primary cats its hard to tell, but they could get close to their threshhold.

Until you address the main source of the heat (stock manifolds), trying to "cure" the heat through indirect band-aid measures really isn't going to do much at all.

Ceramic coating is on avg about $250-350 per set of V8 headers and is worth every penny when it comes to heat reduction. If anyone needs a stock set of manifolds I may have a pair lying around here somewhere. (Obviously if you want to ceramic coat your aftermarket headers that is also another possibility).

Last edited by AMS Performance; 03-31-2011 at 10:42 PM.
Old 04-01-2011, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by AMS Performance
If you truly want to lower your engine bay heat by 50% or more the only real way is to ceramic coat the stock manifolds (both inside & outside preferably). This will drastically reduce engine bay heat thereby improving stock cooling and lowering both oil & coolant temps. It will also allow the stock radiator to function better as well.

The only possible drawback to this is your stock primary cats will get significantly hotter now that all the heat is being channeled directly into the cats instead of being dissipated into the engine bay as it naturally would. Whether or not this shortens the life of the primary cats its hard to tell, but they could get close to their threshhold.

Until you address the main source of the heat (stock manifolds), trying to "cure" the heat through indirect band-aid measures really isn't going to do much at all.

Ceramic coating is on avg about $250-350 per set of V8 headers and is worth every penny when it comes to heat reduction. If anyone needs a stock set of manifolds I may have a pair lying around here somewhere. (Obviously if you want to ceramic coat your aftermarket headers that is also another possibility).
The purpose of the hood is mainly aesthetics with a secondary purpose of venting heat. I just posted it under this topic because it was applicable, and the OP had mentioned that he had considered a vented hood.
Old 04-01-2011, 04:42 PM
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thanks for posting - the hood looks really good - can't wait to see pics with it installed. You ARE planning on painting it, right ?
IMO, ceramic coating the exhaust manifolds is a great idea - I'm gonna do that. But I'm still convinced that opening up the underside of the hood below the OEM hood cowling/vent will dissipate a TON of heat that gets trapped at the back of the motor and has nowhere to go.
Old 04-01-2011, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by LZH
thanks for posting - the hood looks really good - can't wait to see pics with it installed. You ARE planning on painting it, right ?
IMO, ceramic coating the exhaust manifolds is a great idea - I'm gonna do that. But I'm still convinced that opening up the underside of the hood below the OEM hood cowling/vent will dissipate a TON of heat that gets trapped at the back of the motor and has nowhere to go.
I'll test fit it prior to taking it to an auto body shop, and then take some pics before and after the paint.
Old 04-01-2011, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by LZH
thanks for posting - the hood looks really good - can't wait to see pics with it installed. You ARE planning on painting it, right ?
IMO, ceramic coating the exhaust manifolds is a great idea - I'm gonna do that. But I'm still convinced that opening up the underside of the hood below the OEM hood cowling/vent will dissipate a TON of heat that gets trapped at the back of the motor and has nowhere to go.
Typically the cowl is an area of positive pressure.
It will only vent heat when the car is at a stop.
In motion the pressure rises and will force air into the cowl vent..
Much like the "cowl induction" on many muscle cars.

Best place to extract engine bay heat is with vents from the negative pressure front to mid section of the hood.or fender
Old 04-01-2011, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RBYCC
Typically the cowl is an area of positive pressure.
It will only vent heat when the car is at a stop.
In motion the pressure rises and will force air into the cowl vent..
Much like the "cowl induction" on many muscle cars.

Best place to extract engine bay heat is with vents from the negative pressure front to mid section of the hood.or fender
So then do you think in my OP the picture of the underside of the hood where it shows very obvious scorching....is from underhood temps at a standstill?? I hear what your saying....but with enough airflow at the grill it has to go somewhere ?
Old 04-03-2011, 12:20 AM
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88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Originally Posted by LZH
So then do you think in my OP the picture of the underside of the hood where it shows very obvious scorching....is from underhood temps at a standstill?? I hear what your saying....but with enough airflow at the grill it has to go somewhere ?
Read my post again...
Not questioning your "scorching", just stating the obvious..
The cowl area is always a high pressure area due to the effect of the windscreen.
That is why the cowl area for so many years is used as the supply air for the interior heating/cooling systems.

In motion there is no extraction as air is forced into the engine bay...
You extract heat from a low pressure area on the hood, which usually is from the leading edge to about three quarters up.
Easy to discover your high and low pressure areas...
Tape lengths of yarn to your hood and see if they rise up or are pressed against the hood.

The cowl area is a great location for an ambient air induction for engines running carbs, not much help for FI systems.
Bringing ambient air from the cowl creates turbulence and won't reduce engine bay temps as there is no exhaust/extraction.

Look at any modified turbo car and you will see where the extractors reside..
Never in the cowl area.

Below is a pic of the heat extractors on my C124 M103 TT.
In essence stamped louvers installed upside down and backwards.
Very similar to some of the aftermarket BMW hoods.
Engine bay temps with a TT install run as hot if not hotter then the BS.
Attached Thumbnails Under Hood Temps-300cewidebody-184.jpg   Under Hood Temps-300cewidebody-185.jpg  
Old 04-09-2011, 09:50 PM
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Hood painted...

Installation not going as well as hoped. The body shop is going to need to make some modifications for the hood to fit. From the pics, the front of the hood is lifted and the shop is trying to find a way of making the hood sit right. Damn, it would have been perfect to me.



Sorry pics were taken with an iphone. Also hood emblem has not been installed yet.
Old 04-09-2011, 11:42 PM
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88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Is the hood warped?
Front gaps aren't typical...
Normal adjustment usually only establishes the fender to hood line.
From your pic even if you closed the gap at the grille area the gap above the lights probably won't pull down enough..
Old 04-10-2011, 01:52 AM
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That's a tough break Won. Had so much potential. I guess that means the mold that Carl made is now a complete write-off given that the hood it yielded doesn't fit without major work. Bummer!!

Last edited by Maverick1975; 04-10-2011 at 03:09 AM.
Old 04-10-2011, 07:23 PM
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Yeah too bad the fitment needs to be worked out....on the plus side I thought the vents looked a bit too "ricey" but turned out to be alright.

Hope you get it worked out.
Old 04-10-2011, 11:29 PM
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Also surprised a test fit wasn't done prior to painting...
Old 04-11-2011, 05:41 AM
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Yeah that was my mistake. I was just trying to save time. What a waste of money. Today they are planning on starting the modification, but i'll probably tell them to hold off unless all they need to do is modify the hood and hood hardware.

On the brightside, I think I located the autobody shop I'll be taking all my stuff to.


Originally Posted by RBYCC
Also surprised a test fit wasn't done prior to painting...

Last edited by wonsuk_utmb; 04-11-2011 at 05:54 AM.
Old 04-11-2011, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by wonsuk_utmb
Yeah that was my mistake. I was just trying to save time. What a waste of money. Today they are planning on starting the modification, but i'll probably tell them to hold off unless all they need to do is modify the hood and hood hardware.

On the brightside, I think I located the autobody shop I'll be taking all my stuff to.
Not sure what a body shop can do if it is warped.
If it is warped you may try to salvage it.
Possibly Dzus 1/4 turn fasteners can be used to pull down the leading edge?
Dzus has a line of small fasteners that come in several anodized colors.
The Dzus fasteners have been used for many years on race car panels that need to easily be removed, including lift off hoods.

Ed A.
Old 04-11-2011, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by wonsuk_utmb
Yeah that was my mistake. I was just trying to save time. What a waste of money. Today they are planning on starting the modification, but i'll probably tell them to hold off unless all they need to do is modify the hood and hood hardware.

On the brightside, I think I located the autobody shop I'll be taking all my stuff to.

Sorry things aren't working out...on a side note, how's the carbon fiber weave on the hood and the overall quality (besides not fitting ) I've been trying to get a OEM CF hood for the BS (no vents), since there's potential for quite a bit weight savings.

Evosport was in the process of getting one made but with everything that's going on I don't think that's gonna happen...
Old 04-11-2011, 07:54 PM
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New plan...

I'm going to live with this vented hood installed for some time. In the meantime, I am sending my hood to china. The mold was made for this hood using a hood that was reconditioned from an accident (biggest mistake). For everyone, the hood is not warped, it was made from a bad starting point.

Last edited by wonsuk_utmb; 04-11-2011 at 08:38 PM.
Old 04-11-2011, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by GeoGeo
Sorry things aren't working out...on a side note, how's the carbon fiber weave on the hood and the overall quality (besides not fitting ) I've been trying to get a OEM CF hood for the BS (no vents), since there's potential for quite a bit weight savings.

Evosport was in the process of getting one made but with everything that's going on I don't think that's gonna happen...
It's definitely lighter probably by about 20 lbs or so, I'll have the exact weights some time later. The carbon weave was actually quite good.
Old 04-12-2011, 04:59 PM
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New, new plan...

Now my body shop is doing some minor mods to make this hood fit. It'll probably be a one off. Will post pics when ready.


Originally Posted by wonsuk_utmb
I'm going to live with this vented hood installed for some time. In the meantime, I am sending my hood to china. The mold was made for this hood using a hood that was reconditioned from an accident (biggest mistake). For everyone, the hood is not warped, it was made from a bad starting point.
Old 04-13-2011, 08:06 PM
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I'm glad I decided to modify the hood...

Jorge @ Houston Euro Collision is unbelievable. I'm pretty pleased with how it came out. Driving, you have absolutely no flapping or noteable increase in windnoise, although I have yet to get on the highway. Also it might be my imagination but the front end seems a little more responsive. Although that might be the "running faster with new shoes" syndrome.






Old 04-13-2011, 08:38 PM
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looks good...how are the oil temps?


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