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I accelerated from 60 km/h to 90 km/h with approximate 3500 Rpm, coolant temp. 85c and same time car started jerk and a lot of blueish smoke from right exhaust. After I parked car and opened engine hood, there was oil splashes from oil filler cap.
Now car shake at idle and slow speeds with D blueish smoke comes from right exhaust. If I rise rpm to 1500 car run smooth but more blueish smoke comes from right exhaust.
I have the same issue. Brought the car back from an autocross (at night on dirt, great fun never again with this car. It is back to the pavement for me.) Anyhow nothing fell off and it ran well for the next 200 miles or so then started throwing #1 cylinder misfires. Swapped everything with #2 cylinder to no avail. Compression check showed 90 psi #1, 135 #2. Took it to a shop that came up with #50 psi. Threw a couple of can of restore in it and drove it for about 50 miles. Still misfiring and shaking so got depressed and left the car in the shed alone for a couple of months as punishment. Sure felt like I was the one being punished though.
The other day I decided this is stupid so got it out to see what could be done. Drove it around the yard a little with it shaking and expelling grayish with a little blue smoke out of the #1 bank. I disconnected the #1 fuel injector but made no difference. Compression tested all cylinders. #1 first reading was 230!!! what gives? read again 195, again 190, again 165, again 160 and stayed there for 30 min,again 165... #2 162 and left over nite only down to 152, #3 160, 156 after 30 min, #4 166, 162 after 30 min, #5 166, 165 after 20 min, #6 172, 170 after 11 min, #7 168, 165 after 1 hr, #8 172, 169 after 2hrs, #1 again 160, 158 after 3 hrs.
My theory is a bad injector at #1. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I have only 240,000 miles on my 2003 E55 and try to identify the problem before throwing parts at it like the dealers do.
I have the same issue. Brought the car back from an autocross (at night on dirt, great fun never again with this car. It is back to the pavement for me.) Anyhow nothing fell off and it ran well for the next 200 miles or so then started throwing #1 cylinder misfires. Swapped everything with #2 cylinder to no avail. Compression check showed 90 psi #1, 135 #2. Took it to a shop that came up with #50 psi. Threw a couple of can of restore in it and drove it for about 50 miles. Still misfiring and shaking so got depressed and left the car in the shed alone for a couple of months as punishment. Sure felt like I was the one being punished though.
The other day I decided this is stupid so got it out to see what could be done. Drove it around the yard a little with it shaking and expelling grayish with a little blue smoke out of the #1 bank. I disconnected the #1 fuel injector but made no difference. Compression tested all cylinders. #1 first reading was 230!!! what gives? read again 195, again 190, again 165, again 160 and stayed there for 30 min,again 165... #2 162 and left over nite only down to 152, #3 160, 156 after 30 min, #4 166, 162 after 30 min, #5 166, 165 after 20 min, #6 172, 170 after 11 min, #7 168, 165 after 1 hr, #8 172, 169 after 2hrs, #1 again 160, 158 after 3 hrs.
My theory is a bad injector at #1. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I have only 240,000 miles on my 2003 E55 and try to identify the problem before throwing parts at it like the dealers do.
Most likely you're right about the cyl1 injector (or one of its seals) being bad. Those are all symptoms of that.
Not sure how relevant it would be for your case, but I experience shaking and rough idle at start, while engine cold. Also sometimes when at 1500 - 2500 rpm I can feel shaking / uneven acceleration. Replaced spark plugs (they were due any way) with no changes. I am going to schedule an appointment with the mechanic next week or so and will dig into it. As of right now describing him my symptoms he stated might be fuel lines / injectors issue. Will keep you updated as well.
Arrrg. after posting started to think about my compression tests and wondered why a compression test if it is holding pressure would not be the same as a leak down. duh - check valve in the gauge to hold pressure to be able to read the max. Those hold pressure readings I posted are worthless. I have a leak down tester coming as well as plugs and a set of injectors which it needs anyway. Will tear out the fuel rail while waiting. I am thinking when I get done with this I will box up all my tools I bought to troubleshoot my one car and send them to anyone that is working on their one car. They would just be sitting around in the shop anyway. Maybe everyone could add their extra tools and we would have a nice diagnostic set all in one box.. Just a brain fart.
Best regards to the quick responses and not beating me up about my half as- bumbling around trying to get back on the road for a trip out west this fall. Never can have too much help in this life.
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