chrome1wave

Hi guys, I'm looking for advice as to the best/cheapest way to lower my CLS 500. I've been doing a lot of research lately and have come across 3 possible methods, none of which sound very good to me either because of the "home rigging" methods or not enough drop for the price. I guess my first question is going to be how much does everyone recommend dropping it. My personal opinion is that a 2" drop is needed to get the full effect. I have 20" rims on my car and from my measurements it looks like that would sit nice. All the methods I've found though, only lower the car 20-30 mm which is only about an inch. My two cents about the method of lowering the car is this: The car rides beautifully now thanks to the factory air ride system! I'm looking to ruin this. You'll see, some of the methods I've come across include, releasing air from the bags, etc. which I'm not found of. I'd love to keep the air ride system stock/left alone and still functioning 100%. I had an '02 m3 that was slammed down and it became a headache to drive around the city due to speed bumps, etc... I'm loving the concept that I could still achieve a "slammed" look with my CLS yet be able to use my raising button if needed to clear speed bumps, etc.! I'm hoping someone here can recommend the best, proven, least expensive method to accomplish my goals. The reason I keep saying least expensive isn't because I won't spend $1,500 to lower my car, it's as most of you know, lowering a car is very inexpensive usually and I don't keep my cars long. So with a quick turn around, I usually don't dump a ton of money into a car I'm not going to be able to recoup. With all of that said, here are the top 3 methods I've come across so far:

1. Using a lowering module from Kleeman, Brabus, RENNtech, or MKB. MKB I've found is the cheapest @ $1,385. Here's what I like and don't like about this method. I love the fact that this lowers the car electronically utilizing the factory system! What I don't like, is price. After install, you're talking up to $1,800 for a drop! I also don't like that drops of 22 mm are standard. That's not even 1 "!!! Also, I've read that one person tried it and he said he could hardly even notice the car had been lowered when it was in park. I suspect that is due to the fact the car seems to raise when put in park (not sure why, it should do the opposite).

2. The guy I purchased my wheels from has a tech who supposedly has lowered several CLS's. His method is to lower the rear, release air from the bags (I obviously hate this). His point is you can always refill the bags if you wanted to return the car to the factory height. For the front, he knows a company that makes a bracket for about $150 that needs to be installed and will lower the front. He said this method can achieve 1-2" of drop. This just sounds way too "home made" for my taste.

3. Another "home made" method I've read of is this:
Up front, washers / spacers are added to the brackets for the Airmatic control rods on each side -- the effect is to lengthen these brackets which lowers the front suspension. In the rear, there is a single control rod anchored to an aluminum bracket, which in turn is secured by two screws through a piece of steel. Shifting this bracket towards the ground / trunk will lower the rear suspension. The bracket is relocated by notching the existing holes in the steel and securing in the new position. It is very important to make sure the brackets are securely fastened after the modifications. If this is done than the changes should be very safe, and also easy to reverse if necessary.
Parts and tools needed:
6mm metric washers (steel)
6mm tension nuts
dremel with tungsten carbide cutting bit
socket driver and ratchet
Drops of 0.8" - 1" are obtainable with this technique, to go lower you'll need either an expensive electronics module (like Kleeman or Carlsson) or replacement brackets / links.

This method sounds decent except, it doesn't achieve enough drop.

So that's all I've found at this point. None of the options sound that good to me. Hope you guys can recommend the best method! Thanks!

bigpimper4lif

personally i wont drop my car because messing round with the suspenison automaticaly kills the warranty which for a mercedes benz is very very needed....also when u lower your car with the stock suspenison control system your car starts lowering more and more once u start driving anyways i thought i would give u my opinion...I WONT MIND HAVING MY CAR LOWERED...it jus kills the warranty thats all

chrome1wave

What part of the warranty does it kill? The suspension? My M3 was lowered and BMW always warrantied the car for me. Not for suspension of course, I only had some camber issues that I had a local shop adjust for me.

Eric H.

Wrong. Lowering your car would not "kill" your warranty...it would would void your suspension warranty. Mercedes isn't going to deny a claim to a part that's unrelated to the car. I still don't know why people have this train of thought. That's like saying...hey I lowered my car, but now my windows won't roll up, so Mercedes is going to blame the lowering. Stupid.

Eric H.

I think for you it sounds like your best bet is to do a combo. I'd say have it lowered via the Star Diagnosis and also get links. You will have camber issues and your rear tires will definitely have a shorter life....typical with any lowered cars without a camber kit.

chrome1wave

Hi Eric, thanks for the reply. Ya, I thought the same about the warranty. What is the star diagnosis? I already spoke to my local benz dealership (they're about as boring and plain Jane as they come) and had no recommendations for lowering my car and advise against it, blah, blah, blah. So I'm going to have to get exact directions/parts and have a local tech do the work here. I'm in Omaha and there are NO good tuner shops, etc., that mess with higher end cars. I'll have to do all the leg work and find the right tech and parts for the job.

JP@CarLAB

We use the OEM adjustment links to lower CL600 airmatics, I don't see why it can't be done with your CLS as well...and also please don't agree to paying over $300 for the installation and adjusment of those. As for camber issues, didn't I post a K-MAC thread in here somewhere?

flip

zergcerebrates

Where do you live?

Can't you go to a tuning shop to have them modified for you? I lowered my car for $500 at a tuning shop in Los Angeles, and if something goes wrong or need adjustment they corrects it free of charge and will reinstall or remove the brackets so you can take back to the dealership if something is wrong so your suspension would still be in warranty.

Adee

What are the benefits of lowering a ClS 500?

boschk

Purely looks. Me, I can't stand people that screw w/ the factory suspension, using washers & spacers to trick the system. It's a hack job IMHO. I'd either do a star drop or use a professional module. It's a 70k+ car. Do it right.

Roupin

Star drop here. No issues at all, including from the dealer's service department.

miraclewhip_cls

i had my car lower via star 5yr ago never had issues other then rear tire wear KMAC-KIT i hear the is loud and changes the feel of the ride this is hear-say as I have never use it

bigben320e

Star Drop, or leave it alone. JMO...

erifly

Isn't handling much improved? And surely less wind resistance..

boschk

Much? I highly doubt it. It FAR less value than sport mode I & II settings that control the suspension. Less wind resistance? It doesn't change the shape of the car, so no. There might be somewhat less air going under the car, but that has nothing to do with resistance, but lift and down force, something that might have some minuscule value at high speeds.

Essentially, any improvements in handling and down force are minimal at very best. This is mostly a looks issue.

UDWANIT2

Kleemann ELM...........for last 3 years no prob have it lowered n raised as i please......n easy to remove no wire clippings.....Dealer would not know....