BucsFan

Did you have Tire Rack put a heat cycle on them? If not, try that.

MG1422

Does anyone know of any aftermarket camber plates or control arms for the GTR? I can't seem to find any

supertanch

I can't find any as well, was trying to get more camber for my front. I'm going to attempt lowering the car on the stock coilovers and see if I can get a bit more camber out.

MG1422

That might work. I don't want to lower mine because i fear the tires im using would be rubbing

supertanch

For those of you who has the CCB and bleed the brakes yourself, what is the torque spec you use for the front caliper nipples?

In my past experience, I usually hand tight by feel. But in the GTR, every time I bleed, there seem to be some excessive sipping up from the seat of the screw (not from the top hole, I made sure to suck any fluid out from there and clean with compress air after every bleeding). It's nothing like dripping, but just some came out after a hard session.

I started to try tightening it using a micro torque wrench at 120 inch/lb in my recent bleeding but still, some would come out. Wondering if anyone else has ran into this issue with the CCB caliper? The last thing I would do is to get a set of new screws and see, maybe the old ones have some damage.

thebishman

Below is your own post from July.

(I always had this issue on my GTR with CCBs, although luckily it was just a small amount at the front brakes. Now, with my ‘15 C7 Z06/7 with CCBs it was terrible. At times I had brake fluid splattered onto the front fenders. I think it is a function of these still being ‘consumer’ quality brakes versus professional quality like AP Racing brakes).

supertanch

Yes - started with that torque spec recently, but it still sips a bit at the bottom even with that.. Looks like I'll just have to live with it. It doesn't create any actual issue, just annoying of need to clean a bit after a hard session.

SLcruzen

I'm sorry but I just can't pass up on the question of 'how hard to tighten up on the front nipples'.. I would certainly agree that the hand tight method would seem the most logical but if to much torque is applied and the nipples start to bleed, things could get a bit messy and brakes could start squealing.. If squealing occurs one should probably lighten up a touch or if the checkered flag is in sight, just press on to the finish line... this site is so informative and goes so well with a couple of Bulleit Rye Old Fashions...just saying...

GTS67

I gotta say, this is one of the best, most informative threads I’ve ever encountered on a forum. I appreciate everyone’s input here. Taking my car to COTA in February. Learning a lot for my GTS.

thebishman

With my current ride if I were to attempt to get her nipples bleeding I think I’d be looking for a new set of nuts! lol

Poverty750

i wouldnt put ebc bluestuff on a shopping trolley. God awful products.

in terms of brake fluid, ive used endless and ive used rbf660. I have tons of SRF in my lockup but never tried it.

anyway at Spa francorchamps and the Nurburgring, i cant tell of any noticeable difference between the expensive endless and the rbf660.

ive avoided using SRF because the rbf660 doesnt fade/boil and srf needs changing every 6 months.

Additionally a big factor on brake life and performance is the driver. Sit on the brakes for ages, and you will chew through brakes abd generate masses of heat. Hit the brakes with bad intensions, hard and short, get the speed down fast and throw it in. Your brakes will thank you.

thebishman

This is not true re: SRF. Castrol states that it does not need to be flushed for 18 months. Given that it’s performance is so good that you rarely superheat the fluid within the caliper, you normally rarely have to even perform a quick bleed after a weekend event. Hence less work and perhaps less money in the long term depending on how many times you might bleed a differing high performance fluid.

I’ve also used the Endless 650(?) product and liked it a lot. RBF 660 also great stuff.

descartesfool

A vendor once got me to try EBC Bluestuff by selling me 2 sets for the price of one. I tried them on track once and they were the worst track pads I have ever tried. A buddy of mine who is also very experienced was riding with me and he thought we would kill ourselves due to almost total lack of braking when the pads got very hot. I took out that set and threw it and the unused set in the garbage.

Hawk DTC60 or 70 pads works great in my GT-S on track. I use the Nissan GT-R size in front and the rear ones I get made by Porterfield.

Castrol SRF fluid is very, very good. I have also used Project Mu 335. It's great to switch between when doing a complete fluid change as it is a green fluid, so you know when you have fully flushed out the old fluid. On a GT-S, it takes almost 1 litre of fluid to do a full flush once you first empty the master cylinder. I use a vacuum pump powered brake bleeder by an air compressor and get a hard pedal every time. I use it first to empty the master cylinder, which it does very quickly. It takes about 220 ml per rear caliper to fully flush out the old fluid, as I was curious and just measured each caliper flush with the green fluid. Less than that for the front calipers, about 150 ml plus the master cylinder fil which is over 300 ml. You know it’s time to change your Project Mu 335 brake fluid, which can reach close to 300C, when the color changes from green to crystal clear.

503hp

Hi Track Guys,

I had my GT S on the track recently, stock rotors and pads, RBF 600 fluid. Thunderhill East West is not that hard on the brakes and the pads and brake pedal felt good throughout the sessions.

However, after the car has sat post-session in the paddock, when I get back in the car and start it up, the pedal is softer that it was on track. I have to pump it a few times to firm it up. Additionally, I've noticed that the brake fluid reservoir has spilled some fluid in the engine bay.

Can you help me understand what is happening here with the soft pedal _after_ the sessions? My best guess is that when the car is parked with a hot engine and hot brakes, the fluid is then boiling over and spilling out of the reservoir. (Whereas during the session there's enough air movement to keep the fluid cool.)

Thanks!

supertanch

It sounds go me like two possible reasons:
1. there's air in the line which expanded over heat and caused the brake fluid overflow.
2. The reservoir was filled over the max line, which caused the spill

do you have any brake cooling mechanisms on the car such as brake ducts? The RBF600 is not a particularly strong fluid given the weight of the car, without proper brake cooling you could boil them on TH east (especially for braking into Turn 14th).

TRAKCAR

Try to give yourself more distance to cool the car before you stop it. But anyway it’s pretty normal in all cars after torching the brakes on a track. They really need more brake cooling on these cars, so they do get very hot.

503hp

Oops, I mispoke! I was at Thunderhill West, the 2-miler.

1 and/or 2 make sense. I hope it was not 2 since I paid good money to a trackwise shop to do the fluid exchange, but anything is possible!

I still find it really curious how the pedal holds up on the track and then gets soft when parked. It is true that I've been rushed to park because there are session debriefing meetings immediate schedule.

supertanch

Hmmm, West is really not heavy on brakes, so definitely sounds like related to the fluid itself.

It's always good to have a cool down lap at the end before parking the car, and never engage the parking brake after that. Otherwise, it shouldn't be too bad.

LAsunset

Following up a couple of posts regarding spilled brake fluid. I started noticing mine has been doing this as well. But, I haven't tracked my car for a long time. Appears to be a bit wet around the edge of the brake fluid reservoir, maybe a couple of drops in the bay as well. No visible cracks on the reservoir. Cap appears tight. I cleaned up once and went street driving for a few rounds and the spill came back. Have a dealer's appt coming up but curious to hear thoughts. Just how low below the max line should the level be? I never had problems nearing the max line in my other cars. Thanks in advance.

Acta_Non_Verba

Check for brake fluid leaks at these two points. It is a challenge to source a brake fluid leak BC the fluid "travels" easily. Besides a crack or a bad cap, the most likely place it's going to leak is at one or both of these points.

Tempoc

Where do you get Porterfield pads in Canada? Couldn't find any way to source them here.

Also how does your GTS compare to the Nissan GTR for a daily? Do you ever drive either during winters in Canada?

andymlow

Suspension Question….I bought my 2020 GTR second hand. The prior owner placed KW Variant 4 coil overs. The car was initially very stiff. I was able to change the slow and high speed compression from about 6 to 2 with good improvement. I also have the stock suspension. My questions…

1) looking at the stock parts I see no electronic connections - exactly how do these adjust?
2) did I lose the electronic adjustment by having the KW’s?
3) I would like to install the rebound adjustment knobs front and rear. Does anyone know how long the rears have to be to clear the carpet and be accessible?
4) does anyone have a clue how to remove the aluminum trim piece (not the rigid brace) hold in the carpet in the rear hatch area. I’m guessing I have to remove all the trim on the pillars to access some bolts?

Stenzel-Germany

Hi,

1) The 2 Pin connector is on top in the center. Look from above, it is in the middle, in the threaded rod.

2) Yes, you lose the electronic adjustment with the KW. For no error messages, dummies are attached to the electrical connections.

3) Donīt know.

4) You have at least loosen the upper roof lining at the bottom. Then remove the two trunk side panels.
If you haven't done this yet, you don't know the attachment points, so I recommend that you carefully remove everything one after the other.
Is then the gentlest.

First the side covers (the ones with the speakers). Then the roof side panels. At the end the trunk side panels.



Best regards

Stenzel

LAsunset

Belated update. Appreciate the reply.

So the dealer did replace the reservoir but failed to mention where it was leaking from. But before I sent the car in, I did check the points you mentioned and they weren't leaking from there. Here's a picture from back when it happened. As you can tell, the fluid kind of "settles" on the seams.

supertanch

I seem to have a similar problem, after every track day I saw some fluid just like your pics showed which settled in the "seam" area of the reservoir. My brake pedal was fine and the fluid level didnt drop either. Good to know that you got yours replaced at the dealer, I'll probably pay them a visit too then.