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I see the four jack pads. Where can I put a jack stand for added support while changing wheels and removing wheels to detail the calipers and wheel wells.
there is a rough metal frame behind the jack pads . Do I use that ? I don’t want to injure the rocker panels nor drop the car on my foot !
The big rubber pad is my jack Point . Where do I put the stand relative to that?
Last edited by thecutter64; Feb 17, 2019 at 09:51 PM.
There is a cut out in the mid rail between the front and rear tires. The tire kit scissor jack fits in there. It would lift the car, one side at a time. I could put the jack stands on the jack pads.
I always jack my car up from the OEM rear jack placement pad; (as seen in your picture), and raise it high enough so that both F & R wheels clear the floor enough to change them; do work on the brakes, etc. The car is plenty stiff and this won't hurt it. Just make sure you're using a high quality, low height floor jack.
So that I’m clear, you would jack the car from the driver rear jack pad. The driver front and rear wheels are now off the ground. You work on the driver front and rear wheels then set it down and move to passenger side and repeat?
When the front is elevated, do you put jack stands in the front and rear to support the frame ? Do you straddle the jacks near the weld points or on the rubber jack point/ pad ?
18 AMG GTC and 22 F150 Limited. Past owner 16 Maybach, 17 Brabus Smartcar, 06 Ford E150, and 22 G70
Just changed the tires on the car. Here you see the car on blocks and jack stands. My stands are higher than i liked so i used blocks and 4x4s on top of the blocks. There are very sturdy parts of the suspension that the 4x4 can support the car. So I use the floor jack to lift the car and then place the concrete blocks with the 4x4s under the suspension components to support the car. As you see it there are NO tires on the car. IT is totally supported as I explained.
Since you cannot see the blocks I will say they are placed just on the back side of the rotors. NOT touching the rotors but directly behind the rotors is a big spot of heavy suspension part that is flat and can support the car.
18 AMG GTC and 22 F150 Limited. Past owner 16 Maybach, 17 Brabus Smartcar, 06 Ford E150, and 22 G70
Here is my floor jack with the hockey puck that i use to lift car at the jack pads. Technically you can also remove the center panel below the door and screw in your tow hook and lift up the car there as well. Back to the jack pad. The car is so stiff that lifting at one jack pad will quickly lift up the entire side of the car. Just an observation.
So that I’m clear, you would jack the car from the driver rear jack pad. The driver front and rear wheels are now off the ground. You work on the driver front and rear wheels then set it down and move to passenger side and repeat?
When the front is elevated, do you put jack stands in the front and rear to support the frame ? Do you straddle the jacks near the weld points or on the rubber jack point/ pad ?
I only ever need to jack up one side of the car at a time to change wheels, work on the brakes, etc. so I never have any use to use jack stands. I use a very high quality hydraulic jack that I’ve owned for years to simply jack up the whole side of the car from just one of the OEM jack points; generally the one in front of the rear wheel.
Not my car
Note the ridge behind the rocker panel:
Thanks for the replies . I know where to jack the car from. I want to place supports for added safety when it’s up. Will any point on the frame work? The stands are notched. Some cars have a notch where the stands support sit. The GTS don’t .
There is a rail along the rocker panel. Can I support the car there? Or any point inside that? I don’t want to reach behind the rotors to support the car in case the jack fails while I’m placing the supports
I only ever need to jack up one side of the car at a time to change wheels, work on the brakes, etc. so I never have any use to use jack stands. I use a very high quality hydraulic jack that I’ve owned for years to simply jack up the whole side of the car from just one of the OEM jack points; generally the one in front of the rear wheel.
+1
I do the same as well. So do a lot of tire shops. If you are using the jack point to jack the car up. Jack stand placement can be sketchy, time consuming and possibly cause damage if done improperly. You're fine doing it this way as long as you have a quality floor jack. And of course you would never go under the car using this method.
Ok great. I’ve jacked previous cars with OEM jacks. I never used a jack stand nor do I own one. I was told I was crazy for not using supports in addition to a jack
I have an old Craftman hydraulic jack that stopped working . Any suggestions on a new one?
DAre I say the Daytona 3 ton low profile jack from harbor freight looks sturdy. Not sure about long term use .
Ok great. I’ve jacked previous cars with OEM jacks. I never used a jack stand nor do I own one. I was told I was crazy for not using supports in addition to a jack
I have an old Craftman hydraulic jack that stopped working . Any suggestions on a new one?
DAre I say the Daytona 3 ton low profile jack from harbor freight looks sturdy. Not sure about long term use .
A three ton floor jack is bulky and overkill for what you're doing. I'd agree with; you'd be crazy to not use jack stands if you were going under the car. Race teams, tire shops all do it this way. Harbor freight would be fine only if you were using jack stands. They have a market audience, and that is for cheap, disposable products that come primarily from China. Nothing wrong with that as it suits a lot of people. You'd be better off getting a two ton floor jack from Napa/Car Quest. It's not top notch like Lincoln, more middle of the road in quality. However it is a step up from Harbor Freight. It will certainly get the job done for as much as you'd likely use it.
Absolutely concur on the jack stands etc. In fact I taught my kids to slide a tire under the car in addition to stands.
Over on the S2000 community we lost a member when his car fell on him.
It takes about two to three very painful minutes to die of suffocation.
Please don't be that guy.
I will also concur Mercedes hasn't been real helpful in providing multiple useful jack points. on any of their recent cars.
This is the floor jack I’ve used for over 15 years: it’s high quality, (Danish); low profile and extended reach. A very good jack and worth every penny IMHO.
This is the floor jack I’ve used for over 15 years: it’s high quality, (Danish); low profile and extended reach. A very good jack and worth every penny IMHO.
This is from the owners manual. There is a rectangular cut out in the center of the side rail behind the rocker panel . I’ve seen jack pads on reverselogic.com that are MB specific.
Should i I lift here and put jack supports at the rubber jack points behind the front wheel and in front of rear wheel?
AMG GTBS, AMG GTR Pro, AMG GT, C63 AMG, Porsche Panamera 4S, RX-7 FC Turbo II
Originally Posted by thecutter64
Jack pad from ReverseLogic
I use this for my C63, and it is great. I tried it on my AMG GT and it does not exactly fit securely and is too tall (and consequently sits too low) such that it won't work with my jack. I sent Reverse Logic an email to see if they have a jack pad tool that works with the GT family. There is not one listed on their web page. Will report back.
I use this for my C63, and it is great. I tried it on my AMG GT and it does not exactly fit securely and is too tall (and consequently sits too low) such that it won't work with my jack. I sent Reverse Logic an email to see if they have a jack pad tool that works with the GT family. There is not one listed on their web page. Will report back.
is it too tall with the AMG spacer in place? Will it sit better if the 13mm extender is removed?
what are the dimensions of the rectangular block? Burger Motosports makes a similar block. The block in theirs is 2.37”x1”x1”
Thanks for the info BTW!
Last edited by thecutter64; Feb 24, 2019 at 09:59 AM.
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