Console Tire Temp vs Real Tire-Tread Temp On-Track
Reviewing all the WIS docs I could find on the TPMS system, I only found one mention of the temperature indication:
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The 4 tire pressure sensors send out data telegrams during a journey every t = 60 s to the tire pressure monitor control unit.
These data telegrams contain the pressure, tire air temperature, wheel identifier (wheel ID) and status information (direction of rotation, operating mode, etc.).
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On track, when I saw one or more tire temps shown as 80 deg C in the console, I backed off as, from my experience, when Cup 2 "below the surface" tread gets much over 100 deg C, they start to shed rubber very quickly ... too much over and they start to shed tread in chunks, effectively destroying the tire quite rapidly (I've experienced this). Even when backing off, at about 80 deg C console indication, it would always continue to climb into the high 80s, at which point I pitted. This is consistent with the WIS info that the temp measured/shown is the air temp inside the tire so the air's temp would continue to heat (up to the inside tire-carcass's temp) and there'd be hysteresis/lag.
An after-track-day detailed look at my tires showed something like this, on the fronts ... which, to me, says I wouldn't have wanted to get them any hotter:
QUESTION
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Does anyone have any additional info, comments, etc. regarding the operation of the TPMS system's tire-temp display and/or use of the console-shown tire temps when running on-track?
Actually, I'd say they were right at the limit. Though I wouldn't want to get them any hotter, they did have significant grip at that point. #;-)
Here's what happened when I got a Cup 2 tire too hot (the fronts on my C63 S) ... you can see that chunks of the tire were starting to shed and expose the top of carcass to which the tread compounds are bonded (my track day ended early, that day):
Reviewing all the WIS docs I could find on the TPMS system, I only found one mention of the temperature indication:
---
The 4 tire pressure sensors send out data telegrams during a journey every t = 60 s to the tire pressure monitor control unit.
These data telegrams contain the pressure, tire air temperature, wheel identifier (wheel ID) and status information (direction of rotation, operating mode, etc.).
---
On track, when I saw one or more tire temps shown as 80 deg C in the console, I backed off as, from my experience, when Cup 2 "below the surface" tread gets much over 100 deg C, they start to shed rubber very quickly ... too much over and they start to shed tread in chunks, effectively destroying the tire quite rapidly (I've experienced this). Even when backing off, at about 80 deg C console indication, it would always continue to climb into the high 80s, at which point I pitted. This is consistent with the WIS info that the temp measured/shown is the air temp inside the tire so the air's temp would continue to heat (up to the inside tire-carcass's temp) and there'd be hysteresis/lag.
An after-track-day detailed look at my tires showed something like this, on the fronts ... which, to me, says I wouldn't have wanted to get them any hotter:
QUESTION
---
Does anyone have any additional info, comments, etc. regarding the operation of the TPMS system's tire-temp display and/or use of the console-shown tire temps when running on-track?
This is a completely normal look for a Cup 2 ZP tyre that has been used on track
I don't trust the console display, always used a pyrometer to check the actual temperature at hot pit. It really depends on the tires you are using, track condition, driving style etc.
I don't trust the console display, always used a pyrometer to check the actual temperature at hot pit. It really depends on the tires you are using, track condition, driving style etc.
QUESTIONs:
Since you've been using a proper pyrometer, have you developed any sort of feeling for how the displayed (inside-tire air) temperatures relate to the pyrometer readings? Does my guess of a difference of 10 deg C at lower temps (say 40-55) sliding up to 20 deg C at higher temps make sense?
I agree that my Cup 2 tire looks perfectly OK but, from looking at the "granularity of the melting" on the leading edge of the tread blocks, I do think it was about to get too hot ... if others have different experience, I'd be interested (more data, more data!).
When you look at the pic of the destroyed C63 S tire, the "granularity of the melting" is much more coarse and the melting has occurred across the entire tread blocks. I'm guessing that the coarseness of the "granularity of melting" correlates to the maximum tread temperature. Higher temp means rubber rolls off more readily and in larger pieces and, at some temp, may separate in "chunks" ... though the "chunking" may also be being "helped" by some debris/curb-running/whatever.
FYI, that tire was also not MO, but was homologated for BMW M2, which is probably 350-400 lb lighter on the front end than the C63 S ... so the tire always tended to have outside-edge roll-over, even at 40 PSI (which is too high). That didn't help the situation. I've learned to buy track tires ahead of time, lest the correct ones not be available, when needed. $;-)
QUESTIONs:
Since you've been using a proper pyrometer, have you developed any sort of feeling for how the displayed (inside-tire air) temperatures relate to the pyrometer readings? Does my guess of a difference of 10 deg C at lower temps (say 40-55) sliding up to 20 deg C at higher temps make sense?
I agree that my Cup 2 tire looks perfectly OK but, from looking at the "granularity of the melting" on the leading edge of the tread blocks, I do think it was about to get too hot ... if others have different experience, I'd be interested (more data, more data!).
When you look at the pic of the destroyed C63 S tire, the "granularity of the melting" is much more coarse and the melting has occurred across the entire tread blocks. I'm guessing that the coarseness of the "granularity of melting" correlates to the maximum tread temperature. Higher temp means rubber rolls off more readily and in larger pieces and, at some temp, may separate in "chunks" ... though the "chunking" may also be being "helped" by some debris/curb-running/whatever.
FYI, that tire was also not MO, but was homologated for BMW M2, which is probably 350-400 lb lighter on the front end than the C63 S ... so the tire always tended to have outside-edge roll-over, even at 40 PSI (which is too high). That didn't help the situation. I've learned to buy track tires ahead of time, lest the correct ones not be available, when needed. $;-)
Trending Topics
On hot days, I find that about 6 consecutive aggressive laps will max out the Cup 2s for temperature and 8-10 such laps on a cool day. That seems to be the same for both the C63 S and the GTR. I've gotten pretty good at guessing the starting temps and always do an adjustment immediately upon arriving at the track. The hour+ drive to the track means I'm not starting from cold tires if I set them before sitting through the driver's meeting, etc. I noticed that the GTR pressures varied much less than I was used to with the C63 S.
Typically, I bleed off another 1-3 PSI after each of the first 2 sessions. The GTR remained within pressure range much longer and I didn't have to add pressure for the drive home (but did the next day, of course). Maybe the outside temp was more consistent throughout the day, maybe the larger tires hold their heat more ... whatever it was, it was nice not to be fiddling with pressures all the time.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
On hot days, I find that about 6 consecutive aggressive laps will max out the Cup 2s for temperature and 8-10 such laps on a cool day. That seems to be the same for both the C63 S and the GTR. I've gotten pretty good at guessing the starting temps and always do an adjustment immediately upon arriving at the track. The hour+ drive to the track means I'm not starting from cold tires if I set them before sitting through the driver's meeting, etc. I noticed that the GTR pressures varied much less than I was used to with the C63 S.
Typically, I bleed off another 1-3 PSI after each of the first 2 sessions. The GTR remained within pressure range much longer and I didn't have to add pressure for the drive home (but did the next day, of course). Maybe the outside temp was more consistent throughout the day, maybe the larger tires hold their heat more ... whatever it was, it was nice not to be fiddling with pressures all the time.








