Any 10mm Spacer Brands that Fit Properly?

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Old Oct 13, 2021 | 01:51 PM
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Any 10mm Spacer Brands that Fit Properly?

I know that previously, only 15mm wheels spacers would fit properly. I definitely don't want to go that wide, but 10mm would be ideal for me. Any brands that you can recommend that actually fit properly now? Have H&R fixed their fitment issue with their 10mm spacers? Thanks!

Last edited by enjracing; Oct 13, 2021 at 02:00 PM.
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Old Oct 13, 2021 | 05:41 PM
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Hi,

You won't have any luck there. The flanges of the wheel carriers are 13mm.
Under 13mm you won't find any wheel spacers that fit, without turning off the flanges.
With 15mm the wheel spacer are also stable.

Like the look. No clearence issues. More than 15mm is to much (Testet on GTR, stock rims)

H & R wheel Spacers are very thin and not recommended. (Had this first, send it back)
Now have black SCC 15mm. (PN: 12169W) They fits perfekt.

Kind regards

Stenzel
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Old Oct 14, 2021 | 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Stenzel-Germany
Hi,

You won't have any luck there. The flanges of the wheel carriers are 13mm.
Under 13mm you won't find any wheel spacers that fit, without turning off the flanges.
With 15mm the wheel spacer are also stable.

Like the look. No clearence issues. More than 15mm is to much (Testet on GTR, stock rims)

H & R wheel Spacers are very thin and not recommended. (Had this first, send it back)
Now have black SCC 15mm. (PN: 12169W) They fits perfekt.

Kind regards

Stenzel
that's a bummer. i have mixed opinion on the look of 15mm all around. it's cool, but at times i think it's a bit too much. 10mm would be ideal for me, also, it will be so easy to damage the paint from stones and debris being kicked up by the tires. i had that issue on all of my other cars that were spaced all the way out. i may just not space it. uuugggggg.
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Old Oct 14, 2021 | 05:12 AM
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Hi,

Can understand your paint problem with stone chips. But you also have that, certainly a little less, without wheel spacers.
Only protective film can help here.

In my experience, you only have the following options:

0 mm. no wheel spacers. :-) :-) :-)

5 - 6 mm wheel spacer without centering.Basically bad, but work with the GT because the existing long 13mm centering is sufficient to center the rim.

7 -13 mm wheel spacers. Stable centering, only with shortening the wheel flanges on a lathe.

14 - 17 mm wheel spacer. Stable centering. Bolt on.

1 - 17 mm. Custom rims with corresponding ET. (Backspace)


Additional basics for GT Wheelspacers. You don't need any special ones for the front. (Other models with fat caps, had a problem there)

And of course you need longer wheel bolts :-): M14 x 1.5 R14 head


Kind regards

Stenzel
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Old Oct 14, 2021 | 07:29 AM
  #5  
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I've been running H&R 5mm front and 15mm rear for the last year and it's been great.



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Old Oct 14, 2021 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Stenzel-Germany
Hi,

Can understand your paint problem with stone chips. But you also have that, certainly a little less, without wheel spacers.
Only protective film can help here.

In my experience, you only have the following options:

0 mm. no wheel spacers. :-) :-) :-)

5 - 6 mm wheel spacer without centering.Basically bad, but work with the GT because the existing long 13mm centering is sufficient to center the rim.

7 -13 mm wheel spacers. Stable centering, only with shortening the wheel flanges on a lathe.


14 - 17 mm wheel spacer. Stable centering. Bolt on.

1 - 17 mm. Custom rims with corresponding ET. (Backspace)


Additional basics for GT Wheelspacers. You don't need any special ones for the front. (Other models with fat caps, had a problem there)


And of course you need longer wheel bolts :-): M14 x 1.5 R14 head


Kind regards

Stenzel
In this reply, Stenzel is very thorough and very correct in his analysis of what spacers can work and what spacers should be avoided. The factory design of these wheels rely on "hub-centric" alignment. All parts are machined to be concentric starting from the center points of mating parts. The only machining on these parts that can lose concentricity (especially with aftermarket parts such as wheels) is the lug holes for bolts. Using the lug bolts alone does not guarantee concentricity of the wheel/tire, especially if that is combined with improper tightening of the lug bolts.

To add to what stenzel has said above with the items in bold (and a slight disagreement if I understand his statements correctly), using a spacer that only partially exposes the hub flange is that factory wheels have a substantial chamfer on the mating hub surface, so only relying on part of the 13mm hub flange means that it is not enough length to mate with the wheel hub at all.

Finally and VERY important, and I concur with the statement in red, especially with wheel lug bolt torques at 130 lbs, the factory length lug bolts are NOT long enough with 15mm+ spacers. The basic engineering standard is that a bolt's mating threaded length should at least equal (or better) the diameter of the bolt.

For me, there is no choice on a wheel spacer without access to the center hub flange, or a replacement machined into the spacer and, for me, it takes a minimum 15mm spacer to get enough past the factory flange to replace it providing the spacer has a replacement flange machined in.
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Old Oct 14, 2021 | 01:11 PM
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Hi Acta_Non_Verba

Thank you for your answer. It is always a pleasure to read your professional comments.

Real question: Your Name: Acta_Non_Verba . Is this short for "Doing, not only talk" ?

You are absolutely right about your concerns. Never use wheel spacers without centering.
With the GT, however, it works with the 5 mm wheel spacers.
The chamfer on the wheels has an approximate depth of 5mm. (Now from my memory, without guarantee)
I checked this. There is enough left for centering due to the free high centering collar of 13mm. Often only about 7mm are left on other vehicles, then no chance.
(Supplement: the complete flange is 20mm. 7mm are used for the brake disc pot)

After mounting the rims and tightening the wheel bolts, the centering is no longer required.
The surface pressure works here. (The braking forces are also transmitted in this way, for example. Not via the wheel bolts. And certainly not via the small M6 assembly aids :-) :-))

However, precise centering is essential for rim assembly. This is a fakt.

Right, the basic engineering standard is that a bolt's mating threaded length should at least equal (or better) the diameter of the bolt. (Supplement: for steel)

However, this engineering standard is usually not implemented for rims.
There is a "regulation" (also in the WIS) that the minimum screw-in depth for wheel bolts M12 x 1.5 is 6.5 turns. (6.5 x 1.5mm = 9.75mm)
Older MB with M12 x 1.5 the wheel flanges are only 9.5mm thick. (have measured this)

With the wheel thread M14 x 1.5 (like al GT) the "regulation" means 7.5 turns. (7.5 x 1.5mm = 11.25mm)
Did not measure the flange thickness because I use stud bolts with a thread length of 15mm.
But I guess that the flange with threads is not more than 11mm.


Kind regards

Stenzel

Last edited by Stenzel-Germany; Mar 4, 2022 at 09:37 AM. Reason: Wrong Word
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Old Oct 14, 2021 | 10:41 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Stenzel-Germany
Hi,

Can understand your paint problem with stone chips. But you also have that, certainly a little less, without wheel spacers.
Only protective film can help here.

In my experience, you only have the following options:

0 mm. no wheel spacers. :-) :-) :-)

5 - 6 mm wheel spacer without centering.Basically bad, but work with the GT because the existing long 13mm centering is sufficient to center the rim.

7 -13 mm wheel spacers. Stable centering, only with shortening the wheel flanges on a lathe.

14 - 17 mm wheel spacer. Stable centering. Bolt on.

1 - 17 mm. Custom rims with corresponding ET. (Backspace)


Additional basics for GT Wheelspacers. You don't need any special ones for the front. (Other models with fat caps, had a problem there)

And of course you need longer wheel bolts :-): M14 x 1.5 R14 head


Kind regards

Stenzel
thank you for all of that stenzel. yes, i have ppf where i need it, but from past experience with cars that were running spacers, stones went right through the ppf. you'd literally have to do 2 layers. i think for me i may be safer just running no spacers to save the paint. let's see tomorrow how it looks lowered with no spacers. hopefully not terrible!
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Old Oct 14, 2021 | 10:45 PM
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enjracing's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Acta_Non_Verba
In this reply, Stenzel is very thorough and very correct in his analysis of what spacers can work and what spacers should be avoided. The factory design of these wheels rely on "hub-centric" alignment. All parts are machined to be concentric starting from the center points of mating parts. The only machining on these parts that can lose concentricity (especially with aftermarket parts such as wheels) is the lug holes for bolts. Using the lug bolts alone does not guarantee concentricity of the wheel/tire, especially if that is combined with improper tightening of the lug bolts.

To add to what stenzel has said above with the items in bold (and a slight disagreement if I understand his statements correctly), using a spacer that only partially exposes the hub flange is that factory wheels have a substantial chamfer on the mating hub surface, so only relying on part of the 13mm hub flange means that it is not enough length to mate with the wheel hub at all.

Finally and VERY important, and I concur with the statement in red, especially with wheel lug bolt torques at 130 lbs, the factory length lug bolts are NOT long enough with 15mm+ spacers. The basic engineering standard is that a bolt's mating threaded length should at least equal (or better) the diameter of the bolt.

For me, there is no choice on a wheel spacer without access to the center hub flange, or a replacement machined into the spacer and, for me, it takes a minimum 15mm spacer to get enough past the factory flange to replace it providing the spacer has a replacement flange machined in.
well said and all true. i think i'll just not run spacers, as the 15mm is just too aggressive if you want to not stress on paint damage. i've seen pics a few cars on here lowered with no spacers and they seem to look great, at least in pics.
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