I would hope for some information from any of your fellow Coupe/ roadster owners who drag race your car or just like. To light up your rear tires.

I recently went from drag racing my Corvette, Z06 to drag racing my 2020 AMG GTC. The only trouble I’m having right now with the GTC is being able to shut off the traction control to allow rear tire spin. I have tried all the different race settings, including the 5000 rpm”two step simulation,” for my starts, but I’m still getting some amount of traction control preventing wheel spin and killing my 60’ times. Through some research I found out about hitting the TC off switch twice instead of once to get the “off“ “off“ setting to show on the dash but I’m still getting essentially no wheelspin when I try to launch the car. I did this on the sport+ setting and still got essentially no wheel spin still feeling interference from the traction control, or some other nanny preventing it.

So, to all you very drag racers out there or even those of you that just like to burn up your rear tires a bit can you help me to turn off all the controls that prohibit wheelspin so I can do proper burnouts and launches. Thanks so much.

 

Are you in ‘Race’ mode; then pushing the ESP button twice to completely turn off the ESP?

 

I believe it’s press and hold the traction button for a couple seconds. It will confirm with light on dash.

 

Hit the TC button once and then hit and hold it for couple of seconds to turn the TC completely Off.
However, the GT class cars are not drag race cars. Even with aggressive tune it’s hard to get them to 0-60 sub 3sec. These are track cars, built for GP/LM/NASCAR endurance tracks. Very few production cars can beat the GTs on those tracks

 

Thanks, that’s about the only thing I didn’t try as I wasn’t able to make more than a couple attempts the other day.

But I did push the button twice resulting in the double “off” display, except I still had it in sport plus. Previously, I had ran it in resetting only pushing the button once, and of course, got a very poor start. So as far as I know, that’s the only thing left.

Have you actually done this and been able to light up the tires? I asked that because if you were successful in getting the trash control, completely off where wheelspin is controlled only by your accelerator, and mine won’t react to the same settings and there’s likely something wrong with my car. But if that is just a suggestion, I appreciate it, and
as mention I’ll try that one last option.

 

sorry to disagree with you, but all of the AMG cars, street cars, are just as good at drag racing as they are at any track event rather it be a solo or not. Perhaps you arent familiar with the successful AMG cars so you might want to go to the dragstrip occasionally. Also, if you go to any drag racing sites, you’ll see listings of AMG cars running along with their results. I know they are not going to have as much torque as my supercharged Z06 did because they’re turbo charged and have fewer cubic inches with these cars are still able to turn in the high tens absolutely dead stock with no drag radials.

I don’t know how familiar you actually are we drag racing but the times I was referring to or not 0 to 60 second times as you seem to be referring to. The times I am referring to are 0 to 60 foot times which are how drag racers measure their starts.

also, as I mentioned I had hit the TC button twice and got the double tapped “off” and got The double “off” reading signal in the dash and that did not completely shut down traction control. Have you actually done that and been able to break your tires loose. If you have and something obviously is not working correctly in my car but if it’s just a guess then I’ll except it has that but again I have already tried that. Thanks again

 

Thanks, but actually, you have to hit the button twice and then a display will show up on your dash showing “off“ and “off“. As mentioned I’ve done that and it still does not turn the traction control clearly off, because I am unable to break the rear tires loose at all. Unquestionably even being turbo charged, this motor produces enough low end power should be enough to break the tires loose. So somethings not right. Thanks again for your help.

 

It's OK to disagree, I respect it. I first want to clarify that my statement was about the AMG GT class and not "all of the AMG cars". Second, speaking with AMG professional personnel (both drivers and engineers), they unequivocally stood on the fact that the GT platform was design for racetrack use and the design focus was not on drag race, drifting, or tight autocross. For that I was referred to the E63 and C63/C63S. In my limited experience of well over 500 0-60, 1/8 and 1/4 mile runs, both on GTC and GTR, stock and modifies, various tires, various stage 1 tunes and boosts, I end up not being satisfied with any of the end results. No matter what I have tried, these cars do not launch well enough from standing still. It seems that it start to show itself, when modified, at the 1/4 mile runs. However, this can be done by putting the car's "health" at risk. This platform is expensive to repair, better to modify 1/2 priced car and probably get better results.
Take the GTC/GTR to 1/2 or 1 mile runs , or racetrack or formal autocross track, and the car will be unbeatable (almost ).

 

So by design, Mercedes will not let you completely turn off the traction control 100%. I think it’s more like 80%. So if you’re interested in quarter-mile times the only way I have found to get off the line as quickly as possible is just half throttle it for one second , and then full throttle …with this method, I had wheelspin in second gear for a couple seconds and then it hooked up. Getting sub 11 times is respectable.

 

Thanks, of course I appreciate your opinion although I don’t see too many stock chassis GTs running in the British or German supercar series even though that is the Mercedes car. Having owned several different cars, including Ferraris McLarens, and even a couple lotuses, I think it’s a stretch to find much relationship of the chassis, brakes, and engine to any of those being professionally raised. Even the carbon fiber brake set up is not the same one that used in the racing GT. also I attend and occasionally participate in some of those half mile and mile runs in my other cars and I have yet to see in AMGGT participate in any of them. Now I’ve only gone to a couple in Texas and in Arizona what again that’s based on my personal experience not conjecture. And as far as them getting “beat“ in tractor again that’s completely relative. I don’t think this car was ever built to be a true track car and I certainly didn’t buy it from there. It is hey wonderful GT car it’s a zone two maintain a relatively high rate of speed and yet offer comfort to its passengers. That’s what a “GT“ is defined as. If I wanted a true track car I would probably buy a caterham or another lotus, and forgo the 28 speaker, stereo, air conditioning, seven speed heater fan, air conditioning, electric steering wheel, and all those other options that have nothing to do with making the car any faster, but nicer to drive.

Again I am wondering what GT is it that you own and what events or types of events you run? My track days are pretty much limited to the Daytona Road course, Sebring, and occasionally Roebling Road. However, we can each have our opinions either based on conjecture, thoughts what’s your actual experience and that’s all I can base mine on.

by the way, you never mentioned what year or model of AMG GT Coupe or roadster that you own that you are basing all of this on. Could you please do that?

And while I may acknowledge your comments regarding the suggestion that I should use “cheaper“ car, I think that’s all relative. What is “cheap” to you? I don’t consider any type of racing cheap but it’s something that I enjoy and like any recreation be at a 12 foot Jon boat or 60 foot go fast boat it’s all what you want and then secondly what you can afford. No matter what your economic status is there will always be something that may be considered cheap which someone else may consider too expensive. That’s probably why Toyota Camrys and Ford F150 pick up trucks are the largest selling vehicles in United States while the AMG GT, coupe and roadster are one of the lowest regular production cars that were sold in the US. And quite frankly, my Mercedes dealer encouraged me to go out in race track or drag racing. And as long as I don’t modify the car and void the warranty, they have assured me that for the next 3 1/2 years any damage will be covered under warranty. If you read your owners manual, if you own a GT, why else would Mercedes tell you how to “race “ prep the car and why would it have a “race“ setting on it?

That’s the one thing I like about amateur drag racing, I see all types of cars at our strip, some of which I’m sure valued at less than $5000. I also see people out there racing and McLarens occasionally a Ferrari and Lamborghini. If I wanted to race a “cheaper“ car, or different car than I would, like I have with my other cars in the past. While a GT is what I’m racing/dad now. In a few months when I feel I’ve reached my best times with the car remaining stock, I’ll probably stop racing it and find something else to race. And you know what? It might be cheaper or it might be less expensive, but it very well be quicker. Oh, and by the way, I also track my cars besides drag racing unlike many of the racer poseurs who like to speed around on public streets with their exhaust wide-open. I used to do that too, but then I turned 20.

However, as originally stated, my question was very simple, and I hope that some people actually drag race the car would respond or someone who has actually turned the traction control off would respond. I appreciate all opinions and comments, but my question simply was.“How do you turn the traction control completely off.” I was hoping that someone had actually been able to achieve this would advise me how they did it. The simple test is when you accelerate a car briskly. Can you get substantial tire spin. Almost any other car out there with traction control has settings that you can shut it off entirely. That’s why I’m trying to find on my GTC and that’s all my question was intended to encompass just that. Thank you.

 

Thanks very much, I appreciate comment from someone who actually has some experience in the subject. I am afraid that you may be correct and that Mercedes lawyers probably influenced that. I tried your technique the other night along with the actual race setting it allows you to leave it up to 5500 RPM. Obviously in almost any other car that will generate lots of real spoon with my car actually walked about coming out alone in my 60 foot times were quite slow as to what they should be. Period.

 

Before I had my Pro I had a GTC that I took to the 1/4 mile track for an event that a group of friends set up. It was a pretty hot day so the car wasn't running the best, but still I was expecting to break 12 all day long and couldn't. Out of the hole no matter what I did, it just didn't want to go on my terms. There was an E63 station wagon there just dominating too. And, of course there was the obligatory Trackhawk doing the same thing in the 10's over and over and over again.

TImes got a little better as I worked out how to optimize a launch - which was explained here with a slight hesitation before jumping on it...seems counter intuitive, but did get into the 11s over sorting through it. But breaking the rear free outa the hole....nope.

 

This is a lively thread. I wouldn't have predicted that from the title the OP gave it. (I still can't figure out the title.)

 

I appreciate hearing from someone who also has drag race their GT. It sounds like you’re having the same difficulty I am and of course not being able to break the tires loose really limits our off the line and 60 foot times. I tried the drag race setting, where I shut the traction control off, put my left foot on the brake and then very firmly pressed accelerator to the floor and held it as described in the OM, and it held at 5500 RPM and then I released the brake to go. Unfortunately the traction control cut in so strongly that my 60 foot time was about a 1.6 to1.9. After about seven runs the best I’ve run so far is 11.3 at 127 but of course, here in south Florida, the DA is usually from 1000 to 2000. But I really do appreciate your experiences. I guess it vindicates me not being able to find a better solution yet.

I remember reading a few years ago, I believe in road and track, about pulling the traction control fuse was the only way to shut off some of the old traction controls but I’m gonna check with my AMG certified mechanic first. I know he’s interested in racing and perhaps he’ll know if there is a trick. I’ve also seen. A few posts on sedans showing how to go to a “Dyno “setting or a setting when changing the brake pads. Obviously the Dyno setting is exactly for running the car on a dynamometer. Unfortunately the instructions are for sedans who’s steering wheel controls don’t match up with what we have. I’ve tried several different combinations trying to Re-create getting into that, But with no success so far. Hopefully we have such a setting and maybe the AMG mechanic will know how to get into it.

all

 

I apologize for that. That’s clearly my fault because for some reason when I entered a reply, I messed up somehow.

 

You may have better luck lowering the rpm’s during LC to see if the tyres hook up better. Iirc you can vary launch rpm’s by using the Cruise Control stalk. Hope I’m remembering that correctly!

 

appreciate the suggestion, but I did try that just in case that was making the traction control kick in. Actually, I was following exactly what the owners manual says and you are correct that you can lower the launch. RPMs are using the paddle, but that is not my problem. I promise I’m not spinning the tires at all. Email to 5500 RPM launch with the contraction control turn off.

That’s why I’m trying to find out if there is anybody who’s been able to do a a burn out, other than wet, with their car and what settings ahead. So far I haven’t had any luck. You would think that not having any tires spin would promote a very good lunch and normally it does even though normally you want just a bit of tires spin. The “problem” with the
traction control is that it reduces the engine power as its way of preventing spin and also can subtly apply the brakes to ensure your car goes straight as possible. On the sedan AMG cars to have four-wheel-drive, their trash control isn’t as severe because I have four wheels that can take the power versus all that going to the two of our wheels. So the traction control is a lot less intrusive allowing the car to launch much better. So even at 5500 p.m. when I take my foot off the brake, it makes a nice noise, but then immediately almost goes flat, Pauses for a moment, and then goes. In reality this technique, as far as for drag racing, is no better than simply driving up to the line, holding your foot on the brake and then releasing it as soon as it’s time to go. One of the hindrances in this car is that it doesn’t have a lot of lot of low end torque when you consider the size of the tires and their traction level. Unlike my Z06 with a supercharger, it had plenty of low endpower, and would easily make a smoke screen with traction control off if you want it. Thanks again for your input.

 

Hi Runs 10s,

Are you tuned?

I ask BC a tuner can turn off traction control all together. It's a simple one datapoint change. The only downside it would disable traction control until it was changed back, but if you're dedicated then it might not matter to you. I agree with one statement above, I don't think this platform has any mode or sequence that completely suspends traction control unlike your Z06 where you definitely could with a button sequence until a restart.

Here is a similar look at the tune function that can implement traction control through a few methods (BTW, never want to use fuel cutoff!).

To completely disable traction control a tuner simply needs to change one parameter (and we used to do it for this and other controls). I would change the "enable temp" from 40*F to 290*F. Every other parameter would stay the same, but changing this one item, traction control would not kick in unless temps reached 290*F which is not likely.

With a hack software go to:

Torque management > Traction Control > Enable Temps



Best,

Acta