Yes, transmission, engine and brake cooling is all better in the BS, but much of that comes from the much better air flow management. Engine cooling is more efficient due to the diagonally positioned cooling pack and the warm air exits through air outlets in the hood instead of heaving to find its way out under or on the side of the car. There are additional air inlets for brake cooling as well, so to get all this in a GTR you'll have to essentially transplant the BS body.
Is the Black Series cooling better than the AMG GTR ...any other options?
I’m not sure I’ve read of any engine or DCT high temperature issues with the GTR running typical HPDE events in the hands of experienced drivers in states such as TX, KS, etc. in the summer months.
Are you concerned about a stock GTR overheating somehow?
Why do you think that's a problem? The oil in the AMG V8 sits at 210/212F just with normal driving. This is because hotter oil mitigates carbon buildup. Not sure what McLaren does about mitigating it, but the lower oil temperature won't help. Hotter oil also reduces frictional drag on the bearings and cylinder walls. A good quality oil can easily handle up to 250F. Also just to point out that's the oil temperature. The engine block isn't at that temperature.
Nah, pretty normal to get into the 220s with this engine if driven in anger. However, you do wanna make sure you don't have any pierced radiators. That's a common issue with the earlier AMGs that don't have the protective mesh over them. It's easy to tell if you have the mesh. It's black and should be found in front of the left, center and right radiators.
Yes, transmission, engine and brake cooling is all better in the BS, but much of that comes from the much better air flow management. Engine cooling is more efficient due to the diagonally positioned cooling pack and the warm air exits through air outlets in the hood instead of heaving to find its way out under or on the side of the car. There are additional air inlets for brake cooling as well, so to get all this in a GTR you'll have to essentially transplant the BS body.
Hi,
...and the following cooling components have also been enlarged.
My understanding is that 130 deg C (266 deg F) is the point where the engine oil is considered to have entered an overheating condition. Running at a track with air temps at 35 deg C (95 deg F), I saw the GTR Pro's oil temps hit 127 deg C (260.6 deg F) and engine coolant would hit 118 deg C (244.4 deg F) momentarily under WOT down longer straights. With 10-15 seconds, coolant would drop 5+ deg C and engine oil temp would drop 2-3 deg C. My car is stock, BTW.
Looking at the data from that session, it appears (by the HP/Torque display in the console) that the car started pulling HP when the oil temp reached 120 deg C (248 deg F) and at 127 deg C was pulling about 60-75 HP. It was very noticeable, both from the end of (1/2 mi) straight speed and the sound when shifting under WOT. Shifts into 4-6 sounded somewhat "anemic" when it was pulling significant HP.
For me, having engine oil temps hit 125 deg C and above is a reason to change the oil after that track day (regardless of the mileage). It's my understanding that temps approaching 130 deg C cause rapid depletion of some of the chemicals that give "synthetic" engine oil some of its superior properties.
What I've read is that at about 275F is where oil starts to break down, but a full synthetic oil can withstand sump temperature in excess of 300F. Ideal oil temperature is actually at least 220F to burn off deposits and accumulated water vapor. If the oil temperature rarely exceeds 212F the water will mix with sulfur and create acids that will eventually damage bearings. A good oil temperature seems to be between 230F and 260F. At those temperatures it's burning off all the deposits and water vapor.
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
