drroc

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...667b7c23c.jpeg
Does anyone know this part number, and has anyone installed it on the GTR? So far, my part searches are coming up empty.

MBNRG

Unfortunately don't have EPC access to check, but these from Ansix are likely to be more effective (below is for the front, but they also have the rear ducts):

https://ansixauto.com/front-brake-du...z-amg-gt-gt-s/

And of course, there is the most effective ducting provided by TiKT, but at sig higher price point

drroc

Thanks for the Ansix link. I did look at the TiKT, but I am not entirely convinced that it is more effective compared like the Ansix or the GTRPro scoop. In the TiKT setup, a good portion of the intake is inside the wheel well itself, being obstructed by the wheel fender liner.

G. P

The pic above is when the steering wheel is turned over all the way to the right, so it looks like the opening is covered.

Here are couple of pics from my GTC. The entire opening of the TiKT is scooping air from the front.
Ignore the mash I added to prevent track debris to get into the brakes.


Left side TiKT air duct on 2020 GTC, with debris mash.

Right (driver) side TiKT air duct on 2020 GTC, with debris mash.

MBNRG

This video does an exceptional job demonstrating TiKT form and function:

drroc

Thanks. I wonder if just removing the shield completely and running the deflector plate GT3/GTRPro style will be good enough. I know that a lot of the M3 track guys just ditch the heat shields all together. (I've ditched them on my M3, and ran some ducting work). I am wondering if the TiKT product is an overpriced solution for something that can be solved via cheaper methods that GT3 uses. I don't see data on their site that shows the superiority of their approach.

G. P

I don't think so. Here is why?
The TiKT duct directs incoming air towards the center opening of the disc, situated on the inner side of the wheel. From there, the air passes through the disc vanes, the gap area between the two plates of the disc, and is expelled into the space within the wheel wall. This ensures a high-speed airflow via the disc plates, resulting in excellent cooling. Removing the heat shield and run without the duct will not assist in directing air into the disc and therefore would be ineffective.

Moreover, conventional race discs typically feature vanes oriented towards the rear of the car, allowing air entering from the center of the disc to be drawn out. If the vanes were directed towards the front, their forward circular motion would impede the airflow through the center of the disc.


btw, the OEM discs are vanes are not directional.

user33

The brake-cooling "deflectors" will not be anywhere near as effective as the TiKT brake-cooling ducts. TiKT is the only brake-cooling solution where they actually provide evidence of their product's effectiveness:

For proper cooling, you want air to be forced into the center/hub area of the rotor where it'll be "spun out" through the center/inside of the rotor's cooling vanes. When the car is down on its springs, the TiKT duct intake sits nicely in line with the under-chassis airflow guides (I assume the non-Pro GTR also has these).
[Oh, lookls like GP was saying some of the same stuff.]

In my case, I have these on my GTR Pro because it's heat that kills the carbon ceramic rotors and, at the cost of new rotors, I installed the best brake-cooling product as an investment to maximize the life of the carbon ceramic rotors (I track the car).

PWR2W8

I'm using the Ansix ducts; front and rear. Prior to the installation, I was getting a soft brake pedal inside of a 20 minute track session. I should note, I started with the front ducts, first. It didn't completely solve the soft pedal issue. It was better, but it wasn't right so I ordered the rear ducts.

Once all the ducts were installed, I could to a full 20 minute stint without significant pedal fade. The pedal stayed firmer throughout the session, but toward the end of each stint I could feel it getting slightly softer. For example, if I had one inch of brake travel on cool brakes, it would be 1.5" on hot brakes. Before the ducts, the pedal would nearly go the floor once the brakes heated up. I'm sure each car varies a little but full pedal travel on hot brakes without the ducts was about 3". These measurements are simply guesstimates.

In the bang-for-the-buck category, the Ansix ducts were a good investment for track days. Recommend!

.

drroc

I assume you took off the heat shields front and back, right?

PWR2W8

We cut the heat shields as per Ansix instructions, but if I was to do it again, I would just take the heat shields off.

ash4390

Another vote for the Ansix ducts here (for their pricepoint) - running on the front only without heatshields, castrol SRF, and EBC Bluestuff NDX (sidenote: If anyone could direct me into a more streetable track pad, I'd be open to it). Setup seems to serve me well for the 4-5 track days I do per year, definitely not as hardcore as some of the folks on here but have had no issues with brake fade with this set up (Willow Springs, Button Willow, Thunderhill, The Ridge, etc).

drroc

Thanks for this data point! Do you use Ti pad shields? https://girodisc.com/titanium-shields-1382-shape/ Also, any signs of caliper paint discoloration?

ash4390

No shields, and no discoloration that I've noticed. It's definitely been something on my mind but maybe I'm just not a fast enough driver

drroc

Also, are you running OEM rotors or did you switch to the Girodiscs? I was surprised to read above that the OEM rotors have vanes that go straight out. Ideally, you should use directional vanes for better airflow.

ash4390

OEM rotors still, but will be replacing them with Girodiscs this summer.

G. P

Just for clarification, I didn't explicitly state "Straight out." The OEM discs are non-directional, featuring a honeycomb structure between the disc plates. This allows air to flow in any direction, generating more vortex flow, albeit less efficiently than directional vanes. Given that the OEM design doesn't facilitate direct airflow into the center of the disc, utilizing directional vanes offers no advantage.
The Girodisc you have mentioned do have directional vanes and are a perfect match if you use the TIKT ducts.

G. P

Regarding the Girodisc and TIKT pairing, I must admit that the cooling is so good, that in several tracks I could not get to the 500-600C sweet spot of my PAGID RSL 29 pads temperature (Track outside day temp was usually 70-80F). BTW, my rear wheel air cooling remains OEM (no TIKT)

user33

Yeah, with TiKT front and back on GTR Pro (CCB rotors), I was unable to bed the TiKT/Pagid pads (on public roads) without blocking the cooling ducts. However, I also saw that the pad deposits on the rotors were wiped off after a couple of aggressive sessions on a track that's hard on brakes, so I just left it that way.

G. P

That's a good point. For the bedding process, it will be necessary to block the ducts, otherwise you cannot get to bedding temp while on local roads. (This is correct for both CCB or Iron rotors).