Tree SAP on my Blk E
01-07-2006, 07:49 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
11 W164 BlueTec, 09 E82
Tree SAP on my Blk E
Guys..I parked under a tree and got tree sap (very small specs) all over my blk E. I can rub them off my with nails but too many to do manually and the micro-fiber cloth won't even move it.
What is the best way to remove these?? Thanks in advance.
What is the best way to remove these?? Thanks in advance.
09-20-2006, 01:49 PM
#3
Senior Member
This is an old thread but I'm browsing through, so thought I'd post for anyone searching.
Clay will work but there's an easier, quicker way: alcohol. Tree sap is quite soluble in alcohol even after it's been dried and baked on by the sun. I have access to laboratory grade ethanol, which works like a charm, but rubbing alcohol should be pretty good too. A couple of wipes with an alcohol-soaked cloth and it's gone. Thicker deposits come off with just a little more rubbing. You'll need to rewax the spot.
Clay will work but there's an easier, quicker way: alcohol. Tree sap is quite soluble in alcohol even after it's been dried and baked on by the sun. I have access to laboratory grade ethanol, which works like a charm, but rubbing alcohol should be pretty good too. A couple of wipes with an alcohol-soaked cloth and it's gone. Thicker deposits come off with just a little more rubbing. You'll need to rewax the spot.
Last edited by lars; 09-20-2006 at 01:49 PM. Reason: spelling
09-21-2006, 10:59 AM
#4
Rubbing alcohol is great for sap and bird droppings. Is there stronger concentrations of alcohol available commercially?
Another big problem with the sap or bird droppings is that it can etch into the clear coat and leave a "ring". To get rid of the ring you generally need a two step polish like the Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 and SSR 1.0. This will remove the "ring" for good not just cover it up.
Greg @ Detailed image
Another big problem with the sap or bird droppings is that it can etch into the clear coat and leave a "ring". To get rid of the ring you generally need a two step polish like the Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 and SSR 1.0. This will remove the "ring" for good not just cover it up.
Greg @ Detailed image
09-22-2006, 10:33 AM
#5
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Ponte Vedra Beach FL/ Hampstead, London, England
Posts: 880
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
'84 380 SL/ '02 XK8
Bird Excrement:
(Or insect excrement like Gypsy moth, June bug, Honeybees, etc) contain highly acidic concentrates (uric acid (pH 3.0-4.5) which if left for any length of time the will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a non-transparent ‘clouded’ area) or may cause etching (a depression in the paint or glass surfaces) Heat (vehicle paint temperature of 90oF+) creates a very aggressive reactivity of the acids that are present, which causes surface etching, so they should be removed without delay, at lower temperatures (40oF or less) there s no reactivity and therefore no etching.
No wax or polymer sealant can provide a permanent shield against acidic bird excrement (Collinite 845 Insulator Wax is probably the most durable Carnauba wax product) but this may only provide enough of a barrier to enable it to be removed quickly before causing too much damage to the paint film surface.
Birds use gravel to help digest their food so grit and sand are some of the major components, which can cause scratching. Insect honeydew (sometimes mistaken for tree resin) excreted by aphids or scale insects that infest the leaves and branches is also acidic. Residue should be removed (see below) as soon as possible as it could compromise the clear coat.
Take your time and be careful with its removal, these acids should be removed and/or neutralized as quickly as possible. Using an IPA (isopropyl alcohol) no ammonia based (ammonia acts as an acid accelerant) glass cleaner or a gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell®) place a small amount on to a first aid gauze pad and apply to effected area this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time. The alcohol content, acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it dwell for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.
Avoid using a QD spray to flush residue, as they contain either carnauba wax or polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated .If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish (Zaino PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleanser and then apply a paint protection).
Do not scrub hardened/dried excrement residue as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint surface, once they are softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less likelihood of damage to the paint surface
The paint system is porous; when you add water and heat to an acidic substance it will erode the paint system very quickly (the heat opens microscopic fissures in the clear coat allowing ingress, the water provides a carrier system for the acid, and heat acts as a catalyst each time water is reintroduced the acid will be reactivated).
The paint surface should be periodically neutralized / decontaminated (See also Reactivity)
(Automotive International A B C Decontamination / Neutralization wash system (http://www.autoint.com )
(Or insect excrement like Gypsy moth, June bug, Honeybees, etc) contain highly acidic concentrates (uric acid (pH 3.0-4.5) which if left for any length of time the will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a non-transparent ‘clouded’ area) or may cause etching (a depression in the paint or glass surfaces) Heat (vehicle paint temperature of 90oF+) creates a very aggressive reactivity of the acids that are present, which causes surface etching, so they should be removed without delay, at lower temperatures (40oF or less) there s no reactivity and therefore no etching.
No wax or polymer sealant can provide a permanent shield against acidic bird excrement (Collinite 845 Insulator Wax is probably the most durable Carnauba wax product) but this may only provide enough of a barrier to enable it to be removed quickly before causing too much damage to the paint film surface.
Birds use gravel to help digest their food so grit and sand are some of the major components, which can cause scratching. Insect honeydew (sometimes mistaken for tree resin) excreted by aphids or scale insects that infest the leaves and branches is also acidic. Residue should be removed (see below) as soon as possible as it could compromise the clear coat.
Take your time and be careful with its removal, these acids should be removed and/or neutralized as quickly as possible. Using an IPA (isopropyl alcohol) no ammonia based (ammonia acts as an acid accelerant) glass cleaner or a gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell®) place a small amount on to a first aid gauze pad and apply to effected area this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time. The alcohol content, acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it dwell for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.
Avoid using a QD spray to flush residue, as they contain either carnauba wax or polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated .If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish (Zaino PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleanser and then apply a paint protection).
Do not scrub hardened/dried excrement residue as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint surface, once they are softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less likelihood of damage to the paint surface
The paint system is porous; when you add water and heat to an acidic substance it will erode the paint system very quickly (the heat opens microscopic fissures in the clear coat allowing ingress, the water provides a carrier system for the acid, and heat acts as a catalyst each time water is reintroduced the acid will be reactivated).
The paint surface should be periodically neutralized / decontaminated (See also Reactivity)
(Automotive International A B C Decontamination / Neutralization wash system (http://www.autoint.com )
09-22-2006, 01:45 PM
#7
Senior Member
You could try a pharmacy for high-concentration ethanol or isopropyl alchol.
Trending Topics
10-03-2006, 09:17 AM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Canton (North Metro Atlanta), Georgia
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2003 E500
A line of products for bikes I commonly used when detailing professionally can be found here: http://www.showbike.org/
Great stuff, easy to use, and great people. The Professional Kit will last you for years, and has just about everything you would need.
Great stuff, easy to use, and great people. The Professional Kit will last you for years, and has just about everything you would need.
