I used clay when I first obtained my car since the surface felt it had been oversprayed on the trunk and rear bumper by something...I tought it worked great, I only used it for that though. Just wax periodically now....

 

I suggest you clay periodically. If you just wax, you're only making it worse by sealing the contaminants in with wax.

 

Alright, duly noted....although I don't wax it that often, since she sits indoors most of the time..thanks for the 411

 

Glad to help.

Being indoor actually does not mean it's fully protected from mother nature. Wax evaporates (indoor or outdoor) over time and there's a loss of protection from loss of wax.

More info at http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html

 

ok, well the stuff ricky was talking about is the finish kare 3 step decontamination system. It works really well and deep cleans the paint better than clay. In most cases it is a replacement for clay however if the car is extremely soiled clay may still be required for the rocker panels. The first step removes all waxes, tar, and anything stuck on your paint. It works so well you will just see the water fully sheet off. The second step dissolves ferrous particles which are highly visible on white cars and other embedded contaminates instead of clay which just smoothes it out to the surrounding level of paint. Then the third step is a wash which neutralizes the paint and makes it ready for wax or polishing. I have had EXCELLENT results using this system and have solved many paint issues with it. Highly recommend it. Hope that helps.

 

http://www.fk1usa.com
There is the link for the Finish Kare stuff guys.

 

There's the answer! Good hearing from you Kardon and thanks Ricky.

 

You guys already know how good the clay works but I have to tell you. I spent Saturday working on my S320. I've been bugged by the way the finish looked. I printed off the first post / bought a clay kit and went to town on the car. I've used polishes in the past but they never made the paint look like this. The good info & advice her at MBWorld is awesome. Thanks to all, my car now looks the best it has since I bought it a few years ago. I'm not sure how often I should clay the paint - I see some say the do it with each wash. I don't have that kind of time but figure I'll work up a schedule for 4-6 times a year.

 

To start off, good to hear we were of assistance to you.

As for claying after every wash, that is way out of context. It should only be done 2-3 times a year max, depending on the condition of the paint.

 

I just bought a big bar of Meguiar's Mirror Glaze, Professional DETAILING CLAY which has a blue stripe that says MILD. It says safely removes bonded surface contaminenets...

Any thoughts on this??

 

I'm a first-timer and I spent Saturday with my new Zaino detailing kit. The results are awesome. The full kit has all the product you'd need, unless the paint is in poor condition. The instructions in the kit helped me through the process. At various points I felt like a chemist with my mixing bottles and formulas, but it was actually a very easy process.

After washing with Dawn and drying, I used the car wash (1/2 capful in 3 cups of water) as a lubricant for the clay, and used a fresh Zaino applicator pad to apply the lubricant- a spray bottle isn't really necessary. Because it was on a new(ish) car, there wasn't much residue after claying and I only had to rinse the car and dry it before putting on the Z2 (the pink liquid) mixed with the ZFX. Then the gloss enhancer and the finish is like glass.

I believe that the Zaino clay has less abrasive than some of the others. One word of caution, don't let the claybar "rest" on the car. I lost my first claybar in less than 5 minutes when it slipped off the smooth surface onto the ground. Glad they include a second bar in the kit.

Plenty of product left for additional coats.

 

Question...I just used the Zaino system including the clay bar with some excellent results. I am always looking for the best of the best products, and was wondering if you are still using the fk system? Also, what do you use as a wax or sealant? Do you use the fk products or Zaino, etc...What products do you recommend or use in the fk line? Thanks for the info!

 

When you guys say DAWN, you mean dawn dishsoap right? Because I wash my car with that before I wax or clay. Other then that I use Mequiers.

 

I first time clayed my Jet Black E90 (milege now 13000km) with Mothers clay bar. No issues at all, I could just feel and see the dirt came off. I use Mothers Showtime as lubricate.

 

Ya, feeling what i think may be pollen may be time for a clay job, good to find instructions here thanks, but you write:step 3) "Rub the clay in a back and forth motion (front of car to back of car) using little to no pressure. If you hear or feel grit fold the clay bar into itself covering the side u just used to expose new fresh clay. I personally would fold the bar twice every 2x2 section just to be safe. If you do not you can induce swirl marks or fine scratches that will have to be polished out with a buffer. Also If u drop the clay bar, immediately discard the clay. It is worthless once it is dropped on the ground because the dirt off the ground will scratch your paint if u try and use it.

4)After u finish the section"

ok fine but can you expand a bit here, like sure i know to rub back and forth with the clay, but you didnt say how i will know or how i can tell ive rubbed enough in that spot and its time to move on.
For instance you can say how long it should take to clay the 2 by 2 area, 1 minute, 5 ninutes, how long typically?
Or you can say "after rubbing test by touching with your finger tips and try to determine if the roughness is now gone" If thats correct.
Or another guess "you can tell when the area that you're working on is finished by _______________" fill in the blanks.

Never been there before so im just making suggestions, anyway I might tackle the job myself, seems critical to me to have some sense for when its time to move the clay to another spot so as not to damage the surface or waste time.
Anyone who has clay'd their car, how long did it take you? 2 hours? 20 minutes?
Of course i know it "depends".
many thanks!
and be sure to buckle up!
and dont drink and drive either!
(unless its bottled water)

 

I believe that a new car should be clayed, since it is likely to have picked up containments during transport to the dealer.

 

Claying a new car?
Man if your car picks up contaminents that fast, you will always be claying your paint.
I have heard people suggest that you clay a new paint job, but that is overkill. Especially on a brand new car when you know that clay has an abrasive base.
I wouldn't do it.
If I got to rub the car to detect problems in the paint, There really arn't any problems. In fact if the paint looks good to the eye I'm happy.
Most people shine their cars up for the visual aspect. Some people take it to an exteme, they want to rub all up against the car to feel the paint.
Two points, I don't allow people to rub my paint while they are admiring my car.
Secondly since I never use any kind of wax on my paint, my 6 year old factory paint is shiney and feels smooth without the use of clay.

 

Hello,
I used the Meguire's Smooth Surface® Clay Kit and it worked out great for me. I did get some clay smears, but I just rubbed them out pretty easily. I'll try the Mother's Clay in about 3 months as a comparison.

 

Just started clay baring my car today, did the hood (accidentally used bug killer instead of meguiars quick detailer YIKES!) and the trunk and they feel more sexy than ever. Gonna finish up when i get home from work. I nearly busted a nut when I felt how smooth it got, its amazing.

 

how many times can i use the same claybar?

 

It's now some Japanese site, not FK. Correct link : http://www.finishkare.com/

However, I don't see any product on the site as described by Kar Don??

Edit : Yet, here's a step by step "how to" @ Autotopia, from just last August : Click

Edit#2: And apparently still being sold : Click

 

My wife bought a new Honda Accord. It only was at the dealer one day BUT it gets transported by rail/truck etc. So, it never sat on the lot, exposed.
I used a preliminary step before clay, Iron-X, which chemically dissolves minute iron particles (rail dust etc) which a new car can pick up in transport. It turns from clear to bright purple when it meets iron. It cleans this sub-surface iron. Her car had a couple spots that turned purple. I took a pic but can't post right now.
Then I clayed to get any surface contamination and there was a little. I used Pinnacle Ultra Fine Poly Clay, least abrasive clay level.
Each step gets the clear coat better and better.
Then I used a non-abrasive polish/ wax prep over the entire surface. Again, the paint felt better (smoother).
Finally, a high quality sealant (BlackFireWetDiamondAllFinishPaintProtection) and the results are astonishing. It's the smoothest finish I've ever felt and will be a great protective layer for future hand washes.
Necessary? No but to me, well worth the time and money invested.

 

You're welcome.
Anyone in MN is welcome to come see/feel my wife's Honda if you want to see what can be done. The finish is absolutely smooth.

I'm waiting on my new E which is also silver metallic (Iridium Silver) and it will get the same treatment.

 

Might as well update this sticky since technology has changed drastically since the last post.

Testing-- take a sandwich bag with your fingers inside and rub it lightly over your paint in different places. Top flat surfaces will be the worst contaminated.

Clay-- There are many different types and grades of clay. Pending the condition of your paint and what you are planning to do afterwards will decide what type of clay to use. Fine, medium, and heavy are typical choices. If you do this twice a year use fine. First timer try the medium.

Clay products--- There are typical clay bars that you break a section off and use. There are clay towels with microfiber on one side and clay on the other. You wipe the paint the same way with them. The newest by Nanoskin is a clay mitt. It has the type of clay on one side of a wash mitt. Purpose is to clay directly after a wash and make it easier. The last two choices can be washed off if dropped on the ground. Clay bars need to be thrown away.

Clay removes embedded contaminents in the paint. Tar, road debris, grease, rail dust, and others. It pulls it from the paint into the clay.

Usage of Clay--- You must use a lubricant. You can use spray wax and do one section at a time, but you will go through a lot of product to do that. Best way is the clay right after the wash. I mix up a mixture of Dawn DW Liquid (Plain) and make it heavy. Then use that with a wash mitt to put down a lubricant and then take the clay to the clear coat. One thing, make sure the clay is not cold or paint is not cold. Not an issue other than winter. The clay will lightly scratch the paint, but in the winter can really mark it up if not careful.

Clay will lightly scratch the paint. If not planning on doing a paint correction after, try using a light cutting pad on a dual action buffer (Porter Cable cheap good choice) with a sealant. This will polish a tad while protecting your finish. Best option is to Use same combination with a one step polish cleaner sealant. This will help remove some light scratches, polish the clear coat to give it a renewed shine, and then a sealant. If your favorite sealant is not a one step, you can top the one step with your favorite kind.

ALL of these products can be found through the dealers who help support this site. Hope this helps

 

I have been using these detail sponges in place of clay. The process is much quicker I use with a detailing spray.
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/speed...l#.U8XcP41dUQQ