Best way to remove tiny paint spots?
02-23-2007, 01:05 AM
#1
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Best way to remove tiny paint spots?
I did a search but couldnt find a specific answer....i must have driven my Obsidian Black s550 through some white paint on the road or behind a city truck with white paint.....anyway i washed it the other day and noticed tiny specks of white paint on the front bumper, mirrors, and a little on the hood and sides of the car. I have tried washing, Meguiar's wax, cleaner and wax, and just plain cleaner with no luck really. I mean the little droplets will come off but i have to rub really hard and i dont think the Meguiar's is helping any. The tiny spots are also on the black grill mesh on the front AMG spoiler.
Please suggestions....clay bar is what i am leaning towards from the search i did. WIll the same thing work on the black grill?
thx in advance
T
Please suggestions....clay bar is what i am leaning towards from the search i did. WIll the same thing work on the black grill?
thx in advance
T
02-23-2007, 12:44 PM
#2
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Location: Ponte Vedra Beach FL/ Hampstead, London, England
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'84 380 SL/ '02 XK8
Three options-
1. Road Paint:
Lay the smooth side of the wipe over the contamination to saturate the surface. Let it sit for about one minute to soften the paint. Use the textured side of a new wipe and rub vigorously. Use firm pressure and a lot of action. Particularly difficult cases may take a second application. Once you have removed the road paint, wash off the chemical with shampoo or glass cleaner.
A quick spot polish should bring back the original shine. (Do not use on paint jobs less than 90 days old)The same technique can be used for old tar removal. If the first application doesn't remove it completely, apply a new wipe and repeat the process.
Product specific- Road Paint Remover (wipes) - http://www.topoftheline.com/sprayinwip.html
2. Use detailers clay
3. Could it be paint chips caused by road gravel that has wax/ sealant in the indentation that appears like white paint
1. Road Paint:
Lay the smooth side of the wipe over the contamination to saturate the surface. Let it sit for about one minute to soften the paint. Use the textured side of a new wipe and rub vigorously. Use firm pressure and a lot of action. Particularly difficult cases may take a second application. Once you have removed the road paint, wash off the chemical with shampoo or glass cleaner.
A quick spot polish should bring back the original shine. (Do not use on paint jobs less than 90 days old)The same technique can be used for old tar removal. If the first application doesn't remove it completely, apply a new wipe and repeat the process.
Product specific- Road Paint Remover (wipes) - http://www.topoftheline.com/sprayinwip.html
2. Use detailers clay
3. Could it be paint chips caused by road gravel that has wax/ sealant in the indentation that appears like white paint
02-23-2007, 02:33 PM
#3
Getting paint or tar on your vehicle is a relatively common problem. Ideally you want to try and remove these contaminates as soon as possible. As a general rule you want to avoid wiping too firmly with any product or picking at them, because there is a good chance you might be adding fine scratches to the clear coat. Here is how I approach the problem which works from the less aggressive to more aggressive solutions, while all are considered safe when done properly.
Most paint/tar won't come off with a simple washing but you should wash the vehicle or clean the affected area with a quick detailer before beginning. My first choice is to use a pre-wash treatment. Before washing the surface I'll spray a product like the Poorboy's World Bug Squash, which loosens surface contamination before washing. Then while washing you might be able to remove the contamination.
You can take rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) and a clean cloth/applicator and try to remove it as well. Try getting the applicator wet and holding it on the affected surface for up to a minute, then wiping again.
Next I'll use a clay bar. Clay bars are designed to safely remove micro and macro contaminates from the clear coat. Most clay bars will come with some sort of clay lube or quick detailer. These products are designed to help the clay bar glide over the surface and safely pick up contaminates. Simply spray the clay lube over a 2x2 area and gently glide the bar over the area. This may take a little time and multiple passes over an area in different directions. For some imperfections you might have to apply a little more pressure to the bar. After completing an area I will wipe it with a clean microfiber towel to remove any excess clay lube. For more instructions on how to use the clay bar or to select a clay bar kit, please click on the links.
If the alcohol/water and clay bar both don't work I'll try a polish. Polishes will almost always work but are not as commonly in households and require some basic polishing knowledge explained here. Some polishes have very tiny micro abrasives in them that help polish your clear coat. I know the term "abrasives" scares some people but really they are quite safe. Typically you want to use the least abrasive polish first to see if it will clean the affected area. If it doesn't work then you move up to a more aggressive polish. When you use a more aggressive polish or compound you'll more than likely have to follow it up with a lighter polish to make sure there is no haze left on the clear coat. In my experiences a medium cutting polish is usually what is needed to remove difficult build ups. I really like the Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 and SSR 1.0. The SSR 2.5 is a medium cutting polish that you buff directly on the affected areas. I apply a quarter sized drop of SSR 2.5 and buff it on with medium pressure in a circular motion so the affected area is polished in multiple different directions. Follow up this process by applying the SSR 1.0 where ever you applied the SSR 2.5. If you have any questions about how to apply the polishes please read our polishing how to link. If for some reason this doesn’t work you can try a more aggressive polish or compound. This should be followed up with the SSR 2.5 and SSR 1.0 or another lighter polishing combination.
Any of the above treatments might work and there is no guaranteed or best method. Polishes seem to always work but you might want to start with something else. The pre-wash, clay bar and alcohol treatments are safe on most glass, vinyl, plastic and metal surfaces (spot check first if unsure or contact a professional). I recommend washing or cleaning the areas you clean just to ensure no residue is left behind.
If you have any questions please let me know, I'd be happy to help. Thanks for posting and please let us know what you use and how it worked.
Greg @ Detailed Image
Most paint/tar won't come off with a simple washing but you should wash the vehicle or clean the affected area with a quick detailer before beginning. My first choice is to use a pre-wash treatment. Before washing the surface I'll spray a product like the Poorboy's World Bug Squash, which loosens surface contamination before washing. Then while washing you might be able to remove the contamination.
You can take rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) and a clean cloth/applicator and try to remove it as well. Try getting the applicator wet and holding it on the affected surface for up to a minute, then wiping again.
Next I'll use a clay bar. Clay bars are designed to safely remove micro and macro contaminates from the clear coat. Most clay bars will come with some sort of clay lube or quick detailer. These products are designed to help the clay bar glide over the surface and safely pick up contaminates. Simply spray the clay lube over a 2x2 area and gently glide the bar over the area. This may take a little time and multiple passes over an area in different directions. For some imperfections you might have to apply a little more pressure to the bar. After completing an area I will wipe it with a clean microfiber towel to remove any excess clay lube. For more instructions on how to use the clay bar or to select a clay bar kit, please click on the links.
If the alcohol/water and clay bar both don't work I'll try a polish. Polishes will almost always work but are not as commonly in households and require some basic polishing knowledge explained here. Some polishes have very tiny micro abrasives in them that help polish your clear coat. I know the term "abrasives" scares some people but really they are quite safe. Typically you want to use the least abrasive polish first to see if it will clean the affected area. If it doesn't work then you move up to a more aggressive polish. When you use a more aggressive polish or compound you'll more than likely have to follow it up with a lighter polish to make sure there is no haze left on the clear coat. In my experiences a medium cutting polish is usually what is needed to remove difficult build ups. I really like the Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 and SSR 1.0. The SSR 2.5 is a medium cutting polish that you buff directly on the affected areas. I apply a quarter sized drop of SSR 2.5 and buff it on with medium pressure in a circular motion so the affected area is polished in multiple different directions. Follow up this process by applying the SSR 1.0 where ever you applied the SSR 2.5. If you have any questions about how to apply the polishes please read our polishing how to link. If for some reason this doesn’t work you can try a more aggressive polish or compound. This should be followed up with the SSR 2.5 and SSR 1.0 or another lighter polishing combination.
Any of the above treatments might work and there is no guaranteed or best method. Polishes seem to always work but you might want to start with something else. The pre-wash, clay bar and alcohol treatments are safe on most glass, vinyl, plastic and metal surfaces (spot check first if unsure or contact a professional). I recommend washing or cleaning the areas you clean just to ensure no residue is left behind.
If you have any questions please let me know, I'd be happy to help. Thanks for posting and please let us know what you use and how it worked.
Greg @ Detailed Image
02-24-2007, 07:16 PM
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
thx for the replies guys....cuz i had it easily available i tried some alcohol on a few small spots and it came off pretty easy....minimal pressure was needed. I rewashed the car a little while ago and will use alcohol on the whole car tomorrow, rewash, wax the areas, and report back. Then if all goes well i will buy some of your products in appreciation.
T
T
02-25-2007, 03:33 PM
#5
thx for the replies guys....cuz i had it easily available i tried some alcohol on a few small spots and it came off pretty easy....minimal pressure was needed. I rewashed the car a little while ago and will use alcohol on the whole car tomorrow, rewash, wax the areas, and report back. Then if all goes well i will buy some of your products in appreciation.
T
T
I'm glad my information has helped you, it's what I enjoy doing. It was nice to read that you would like to support my business with a purchase after. While it's not necessary, it's greatly appreciated. You may want to get a sealant instead of just using a wax. Sealants will generally protect your clear coat better and for longer instead of natural waxes. I typically apply a sealant first and then a carnauba wax on top of them for a great balance of strong protection and a stunning shine.
If you have any problems or questions feel free to post again, I'll be here to help you. Good Luck!!!
Greg @ Detailed Image
02-25-2007, 08:25 PM
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
yea i had the some alcohol swabs in my pocket and i tried it immediately after reading this forum. So they were very quickly available, and i felt like time was of the essence.
thx to TOGWT and for the advice on the sealant....ill look into that.
T
thx to TOGWT and for the advice on the sealant....ill look into that.
T
