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New obsidian black S63 - critique my detailing plan

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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 12:25 PM
  #1  
pmrogers's Avatar
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2013 SL65 45th Anniversary Edition, 2014 Range Rover Sport Autobiography
New obsidian black S63 - critique my detailing plan

Hi all,

I have an obsidian black S63 on the way and am planning my first detail. Please let me know your thoughts.

My plan for now is:
Wash
Clay
Wash
Menzerna 106FF
Menzerna FMJ x 3

I'm open to any feedback, and also have these specific questions:
* Is the 106FF is necessary on brand new? I think MB will have just done this at the factory
* Do you think the 106FF + FMJ look at least equal to All-in-One + P21S?

Previously, I have used Klasse All-In-One + P21S and loved the results on my silver and gray metallic cars. However, the P21S lasts less than 3 weeks in Texas sun, and from what I've read the AIO isn't abrasive enough to for the ceramic nano clearcoat.

Thanks for any input!
Paul
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 01:02 PM
  #2  
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Paul,

First off congrats on the new purchase thats an awesome vehicle! I'm a big fan of the S63. My biggest recommendation would be to not let the dealership do their dealership prep unless you are very confident in their detailing process. I have several friends that work at dealerships that bring their new cars to me because of the low quality prep work done at their dealerships. I'm not suggesting all dealerships are like this but I think I could safely state the majority do not fully understand or are in capable of completing a high quality detail. It also sounds like you understand detailing and would exercise more care on such a nice vehicle.

Your routine looks great. Just make sure you have paint safe and clean washing and drying tools. If you need recommendations please let me know. This is the step where most swirls and fine scratches are added to clear coat. Is the Menzerna PO106FF totally necessary, thats kind of a matter of opinion. I would imagine there is probably some very fine imperfections in the clear coat that you could help buff out. This also helps make sure the surface is very smooth and clean before applying the FMJ. I also like having a polish handy in case someone else or I accidentally scratch the paint. In summary it will help the detail if you polish first but it's not a must have.

I think the look of this process would be very comparable to the Klasse AIO and P21S Carnauba wax. Which one would look better is tough to say because it varies on so many factors. The AIO is non-abrasive so it wouldn't really touch any serious imperfection in the clear coat. If you want you could apply the Poorboy's World Natty's Blue Paste Wax or the Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax for a really deep shine on top of the FMJ. These would probably last about three weeks in the Texas sun like the P21S did but the shine is remarkable. These waxes are two of my favorites on darker colors.

I hope I was able to answer your questions, if not let me know. Please let me know if you'd like anything else explained in more detail. Thanks for posting and I'd love to see some pictures of your detail when your done.

Greg @ Detailed Image
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Old Apr 27, 2007 | 12:11 AM
  #3  
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2013 SL65 45th Anniversary Edition, 2014 Range Rover Sport Autobiography
Thank you, Greg. This is super helpful. And thanks for the congrats-- I am ridiculously excited about the car

Great tip about the dealer detailing. Since I have a month before my car gets here, I'll ask to see one of their prep jobs on another dark car and decide then.

I'll be using brand new microfibre mitts and 2 buckets for the wash, new big blue towels for the dry.

I didn't think I could top FMJ with carnauba, due to hazing. Is there a special technique I need to use when applying the wax to avoid hazing: PC vs. hand-only, more buffing vs less buffing, etc? How long should the FMJ cure before I add wax?

Thanks again,
Paul
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Old Apr 27, 2007 | 07:56 PM
  #4  
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Another point about why you don't want a dealer prep is that they often use products with heavy fillers to help hide imperfections. Then when you pick it up it looks great. This could potentially be hiding imperfections that you may want to address upon picking up the vehicle.

Sounds like you have a good plan for the washing and drying process. For any more tips on washing and drying you can read our How To section. The How To page helps you understand each step in the detailing process and gives you step by step instructions.

You can apply a carnauba wax on top of a sealant. I would let the sealant cure for an hour before applying the carnauba wax. For maximum results you can wait longer but I typically apply it after an hour or so. In some cases I've heard of people feeling like the sealant or wax muted out the shine of the other, but typically they work great together. I apply almost everything I can by PC when possible. However most carnauba waxes come in a solid form and must be hand applied. Therefore I apply the FMJ with the PC and carnauba waxes by hand. If you need any help using the PC you can read about it in our How To section or ask me.

I hope this helped answer your questions. If not let me know and I'll clarify where possible. Thanks for posting and I look forward to giving the S63 a ridiculous shine!

Greg @ Detailed Image
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Old Apr 29, 2007 | 03:31 AM
  #5  
Kar don's Avatar
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I personally wouldnt even clay it... It is going to come straight to you, no dwell time in any of the yards. Also it will come off the boat, get washed, and loaded right onto a covered truck... I took my mercedes home with the wrap on it, washed it and applied 2x zaino z5. Looked amazing.
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Old Apr 29, 2007 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Kar don
I personally wouldnt even clay it... It is going to come straight to you, no dwell time in any of the yards. Also it will come off the boat, get washed, and loaded right onto a covered truck... I took my mercedes home with the wrap on it, washed it and applied 2x zaino z5. Looked amazing.

I totally agree. Skip anything abrasive. I picked up my car with no prep job. I just asked them to pull off the plastic and vacuume the inside.

The detail guy gave me a bottle of Meguires body solvent to take off the stick residue which worked great.

I washed it with two buckets and MF cloth. The paint looked fantastic and already had a super beading coat of something on it. I put a coat of liquid glass on it for fun and that's it.

Your plan sounds great. I'd just skip the clay. If you are going to mess up your paint, it will be with clay.

And Congratulations!
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 01:00 AM
  #7  
BlackLiquorish8's Avatar
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C3Twon AWD Jumpofffff
you should try the absorber to dry your new S. it works very well IMO. it doesnt scratch your car at all, doenst leave streaks, doesnt leave any lint on the paint and best of all its washable and lasts forever. btw nice car
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