help! paint...
05-09-2007, 04:15 PM
#1
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2000 C230 sport
help! paint...
a bird pooped on my bumper...its the color of the car obviously (2000 c230k..w202)
i JUST NOW (after 5 days) wiped it off, and the paint color is perfect, but its not shiny like it used to be....so would a waxing solve the problem or am i SCREWED!?
i JUST NOW (after 5 days) wiped it off, and the paint color is perfect, but its not shiny like it used to be....so would a waxing solve the problem or am i SCREWED!?
05-10-2007, 05:12 AM
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'84 380 SL/ '02 XK8
Bird Excrement:
(Or insect excrement like Gypsy moth, June bug, Honeybees, etc) contain highly acidic concentrates (uric acid (pH 3.0-4.5) There main food source in summer is mostly insects, in the winter/ spring it’s berries, which are very acidic, which if left for any length of time the will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a non-transparent ‘clouded’ area) or may cause etching (a depression in the paint or glass surfaces) Heat (vehicle paint temperature of 90oF+) creates a very aggressive reactivity of the acids that are present, which causes surface etching, so they should be removed without delay, at lower temperatures (40oF or less) there s no reactivity and therefore little or no etching.
No wax or polymer sealant can provide a permanent shield against acidic bird excrement (Collinite 845 Insulator Wax is probably the most durable Carnauba wax product) but this may only provide enough of a barrier to enable it to be removed quickly before causing too much damage to the paint film surface.
Birds use gravel to help digest their food so grit and sand are some of the major components, which can cause scratching. Their main food source in autum/ winter is berries (Very acidic) and in summer insects (also acidic)Insect honeydew (sometimes mistaken for tree resin) excreted by aphids or scale insects that infest the leaves and branches is also acidic. Residue should be removed (see below) as soon as possible as it could compromise the clear coat.
Take your time and be careful with its removal, these acids should be removed and/or neutralized as quickly as possible. Using an IPA (isopropyl alcohol) no ammonia based (ammonia acts as an acid accelerant) glass cleaner or a gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell®) place a small amount on to a first aid gauze pad and apply to effected area this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time. The alcohol content acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it dwell for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.
Baking soda (as a neutralizer) – ensure the surface is cool. Mix a small amount (about 1/2 cup) of baking soda and a little water to make a paste (consistency of pancake syrup). Spread it on the affected paint surface working it around well and let it sit for ˝ hr. Remove, rinse and dry.
Avoid using a QD spray to flush residue, as they contain either carnauba wax or polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated .If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish (Zaino PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleanser and then apply a paint protection).
Do not scrub hardened/dried excrement residue as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint surface, once they are softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less likelihood of damage to the paint surface
If the paint can be rectified by chemical means (e.g. acid, concrete, water spotting, etc.) then this is the answer; not abrasive cleaning. Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants rather than abrading the paint.
(Or insect excrement like Gypsy moth, June bug, Honeybees, etc) contain highly acidic concentrates (uric acid (pH 3.0-4.5) There main food source in summer is mostly insects, in the winter/ spring it’s berries, which are very acidic, which if left for any length of time the will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a non-transparent ‘clouded’ area) or may cause etching (a depression in the paint or glass surfaces) Heat (vehicle paint temperature of 90oF+) creates a very aggressive reactivity of the acids that are present, which causes surface etching, so they should be removed without delay, at lower temperatures (40oF or less) there s no reactivity and therefore little or no etching.
No wax or polymer sealant can provide a permanent shield against acidic bird excrement (Collinite 845 Insulator Wax is probably the most durable Carnauba wax product) but this may only provide enough of a barrier to enable it to be removed quickly before causing too much damage to the paint film surface.
Birds use gravel to help digest their food so grit and sand are some of the major components, which can cause scratching. Their main food source in autum/ winter is berries (Very acidic) and in summer insects (also acidic)Insect honeydew (sometimes mistaken for tree resin) excreted by aphids or scale insects that infest the leaves and branches is also acidic. Residue should be removed (see below) as soon as possible as it could compromise the clear coat.
Take your time and be careful with its removal, these acids should be removed and/or neutralized as quickly as possible. Using an IPA (isopropyl alcohol) no ammonia based (ammonia acts as an acid accelerant) glass cleaner or a gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell®) place a small amount on to a first aid gauze pad and apply to effected area this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time. The alcohol content acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it dwell for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.
Baking soda (as a neutralizer) – ensure the surface is cool. Mix a small amount (about 1/2 cup) of baking soda and a little water to make a paste (consistency of pancake syrup). Spread it on the affected paint surface working it around well and let it sit for ˝ hr. Remove, rinse and dry.
Avoid using a QD spray to flush residue, as they contain either carnauba wax or polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated .If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish (Zaino PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleanser and then apply a paint protection).
Do not scrub hardened/dried excrement residue as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint surface, once they are softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less likelihood of damage to the paint surface
If the paint can be rectified by chemical means (e.g. acid, concrete, water spotting, etc.) then this is the answer; not abrasive cleaning. Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants rather than abrading the paint.
05-10-2007, 12:14 PM
#3
It sounds like you have removed the bird droppings already and you have some sort of marking that is making that area look different. As TOGWT explained in great detail bird droppings can often be acidic and potentially eat in to the clear coat. The area where the bird dropping were may have removed some clear coat and it left what appears to be a "ring" that outlines the etching. If this doesn't sound like the situation you are in please further describe the problem and/or post a picture. If this sounds like your problem then here is how I typically proceed. First off it depends on how far in to the clear coat the droppings have etched. If it’s completely through the clear coat there is no easy fix, may need to see a body shop. If it’s only partially through the clear coat you might be able to polish it out. We typically recommend two polishes for best results. The first polish is a medium cutting polish does the majority of the heavy buffing that really helps eliminate the etching. This polish can leave a slight haze in the clear coat, which can be easily buffed out with the next step, which is the light cutting polish. This polish will make sure the clear coat is bright and vibrant again for maximum shine while further reducing the appearance of the etching. If you're buffing out the marks with a buffer I would recommend the Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish II. If you're trying to do the job by hand I would use the Poorboy's World SSR2.5 and SSR1.0. If the marks is still there you can try to add another more aggressive polish but two steps is generally very effective in my experiences if the etching can be buffed out. After you've buffed the surface with the polishes you can then wax or seal the paint. Please let me know if you have any questions about this process.
Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg @ Detailed Image
05-11-2007, 10:20 PM
#5
Just a thought
I carry a quick detailer product and a couple of microfiber cloths in the trunk for jus such an emergency. It has saved my backside (and my cars finish)more than once.
06-05-2007, 12:48 PM
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Bird Excrement:
(Or insect excrement like Gypsy moth, June bug, Honeybees, etc) contain highly acidic concentrates (uric acid (pH 3.0-4.5) There main food source in summer is mostly insects, in the winter/ spring it’s berries, which are very acidic, which if left for any length of time the will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a non-transparent ‘clouded’ area) or may cause etching (a depression in the paint or glass surfaces) Heat (vehicle paint temperature of 90oF+) creates a very aggressive reactivity of the acids that are present, which causes surface etching, so they should be removed without delay, at lower temperatures (40oF or less) there s no reactivity and therefore little or no etching.
No wax or polymer sealant can provide a permanent shield against acidic bird excrement (Collinite 845 Insulator Wax is probably the most durable Carnauba wax product) but this may only provide enough of a barrier to enable it to be removed quickly before causing too much damage to the paint film surface.
Birds use gravel to help digest their food so grit and sand are some of the major components, which can cause scratching. Their main food source in autum/ winter is berries (Very acidic) and in summer insects (also acidic)Insect honeydew (sometimes mistaken for tree resin) excreted by aphids or scale insects that infest the leaves and branches is also acidic. Residue should be removed (see below) as soon as possible as it could compromise the clear coat.
Take your time and be careful with its removal, these acids should be removed and/or neutralized as quickly as possible. Using an IPA (isopropyl alcohol) no ammonia based (ammonia acts as an acid accelerant) glass cleaner or a gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell®) place a small amount on to a first aid gauze pad and apply to effected area this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time. The alcohol content acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it dwell for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.
Baking soda (as a neutralizer) – ensure the surface is cool. Mix a small amount (about 1/2 cup) of baking soda and a little water to make a paste (consistency of pancake syrup). Spread it on the affected paint surface working it around well and let it sit for ˝ hr. Remove, rinse and dry.
Avoid using a QD spray to flush residue, as they contain either carnauba wax or polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated .If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish (Zaino PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleanser and then apply a paint protection).
Do not scrub hardened/dried excrement residue as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint surface, once they are softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less likelihood of damage to the paint surface
If the paint can be rectified by chemical means (e.g. acid, concrete, water spotting, etc.) then this is the answer; not abrasive cleaning. Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants rather than abrading the paint.
(Or insect excrement like Gypsy moth, June bug, Honeybees, etc) contain highly acidic concentrates (uric acid (pH 3.0-4.5) There main food source in summer is mostly insects, in the winter/ spring it’s berries, which are very acidic, which if left for any length of time the will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a non-transparent ‘clouded’ area) or may cause etching (a depression in the paint or glass surfaces) Heat (vehicle paint temperature of 90oF+) creates a very aggressive reactivity of the acids that are present, which causes surface etching, so they should be removed without delay, at lower temperatures (40oF or less) there s no reactivity and therefore little or no etching.
No wax or polymer sealant can provide a permanent shield against acidic bird excrement (Collinite 845 Insulator Wax is probably the most durable Carnauba wax product) but this may only provide enough of a barrier to enable it to be removed quickly before causing too much damage to the paint film surface.
Birds use gravel to help digest their food so grit and sand are some of the major components, which can cause scratching. Their main food source in autum/ winter is berries (Very acidic) and in summer insects (also acidic)Insect honeydew (sometimes mistaken for tree resin) excreted by aphids or scale insects that infest the leaves and branches is also acidic. Residue should be removed (see below) as soon as possible as it could compromise the clear coat.
Take your time and be careful with its removal, these acids should be removed and/or neutralized as quickly as possible. Using an IPA (isopropyl alcohol) no ammonia based (ammonia acts as an acid accelerant) glass cleaner or a gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell®) place a small amount on to a first aid gauze pad and apply to effected area this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time. The alcohol content acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it dwell for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.
Baking soda (as a neutralizer) – ensure the surface is cool. Mix a small amount (about 1/2 cup) of baking soda and a little water to make a paste (consistency of pancake syrup). Spread it on the affected paint surface working it around well and let it sit for ˝ hr. Remove, rinse and dry.
Avoid using a QD spray to flush residue, as they contain either carnauba wax or polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated .If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish (Zaino PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleanser and then apply a paint protection).
Do not scrub hardened/dried excrement residue as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint surface, once they are softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less likelihood of damage to the paint surface
If the paint can be rectified by chemical means (e.g. acid, concrete, water spotting, etc.) then this is the answer; not abrasive cleaning. Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants rather than abrading the paint.
Architectural Engineer, Author / Freelance Writer (car care products and detailing)
