chairman

on my 07 E 350. The car is about 1 month old, so I thought that I would wash and clay the car then apply Menzerna PO106FF with my Porter Cable using a white pad. Then follow up with the FMJ. Some people have recommended a green pad because it is even less abrasive.

Two basic questions: First, since the PO106FF is slightly abrasive, should I use a pad that is non abrasive?

Second, I have heard that the backing plate on the PC buffer should be flexible rather than rigid. The reason for that statement is that it apparently does not heat up and possibly damage the paint. I have used a rigid backing plate for several years with no ill effects, but with the new clear coat that is being used on these cars should I be concerned?

Thanks for your thoughts.

Greg@DI

All of the pads can be abrasive if run dry. I think you're looking for the right cutting power of the pad. I typically apply the PO106FF with a white polishing pad so it can have some cutting power. If you use a lighter pad you'll get less cutting power and do less polishing. Since your vehicle is so new you probably only need a very light polishing so a black finishing pad may be a good choice. If I had to pick one pad I'd get the white polishing pad. However I typically have two or three different pads per product. Therefore I can get the more aggressive cutting power of the white pad when needed and a more delicate light polishing when I want with the black finishing pad. Or you can start off with the black pad and get a white pad when you need a little more cutting power.

The FMJ should definitely be applied with a different pad that is softer than a white polishing pad. I'm assuming you're referring to the lake country brand of pads, if not let us know. I typically recommend the black finishing pad or the blue fine finishing pad from Lake Country. Both of those pads are very soft and work great for me.

I'm not sure if I totally understood by what you meant here - "The reason for that statement is that it apparently does not heat up and possibly damage the paint."

I don't think you'll have too much to be concerned about the backing plate, unless you have a unique set up. Can you give us some brand names of the buffer and backing plate you're using? The backing plates that are referred to as flexible backing plates are not too flexible. They do have some flex to them but I never really optimize this unless I'm polishing and I want to add some pressure to get more cutting power.

Hope this information helped and you can better access your situation. Please let me know if you have any questions. I'll try to check back soon and see if you need more info. Thanks for posting!

Greg @ Detailed Image

chairman

I am familiar with the fact that a "dry" pad will be more abrasive. I always "prime" my pads before use and keep them damp during the process. Yes, I am using Lake Country pads.

My original concern is that the car is new.

I know that all new cars have some marks and scratches. Therefore, I want to buff the car out with a product that is a mild abrasive at the same time making the finish look deeper (wet) than it already does. I have considered Menzerna FP, for that reason. I have heard great things about PO106FF and that it contains a "micro" abrasive made especially for the finish on newer MB's, etc.. That product may be what is best for the car.

As for the application of the FMJ, I may apply the product by hand and buff it. I have done this with P21S and Blitz wax and it works well.

Thanks

FireGuy

Here is a link in this forum to how mine came out, it was polished up as you described and then topped with 3 layers of Zaino and then the new Zaino Clear Seal spray and I am thrilled with the results and ease of taking care of it:
https://mbworld.org/forums/detailing-automotive-care/195704-polishing-nano-ceramic-clear-coat.html

Greg@DI

Thanks for the clarification on the pads. Sounds like you're an experienced PC user.

The FPII and P0106FF are both great polishes but the PO106FF is my first choice by far. I think you'll be fine using the PO106FF on newer paint to get the results you're looking for. It has more cutting power than the FPII but finishes down smoother. Like I mentioned above you could start off using it with a black finishing pad so you only get minimal cutting power. This polish is very effective in my experiences with a PC with no hazing concerns that I've seen or heard of. I think it's the ideal polish for newer Mercedes. The clear coats are so hard and thick that I don't think you have to worry about polishing too much too early. You should only have to apply the polish 1 - 2 times a year at this point too. The FMJ can be applied as much as you want but polishing will only have minimal affect if you apply it yearly.

I think you have a slight advantage of applying the FMJ with a buffer over hand applications. However I think you can do comparable work by hand or with a buffer when applying a sealant. The FMJ is super easy to apply and remove either way.

Let me know if I can provide more insight on your situation. I hope this information helped.

Greg @ Detailed Image

benzinok

I have used both the P0106FF and the FMJ on mine since it was new (its Black btw). The Polish is really good, but you many need a more abrasive polish for deeper swirls and scratches. But it will get 95% of them (this could and probably is operator error). The FMJ is awesome. Do not over apply! A little goes a long way. And the 2nd and third coats go on so so easy it is worth it to do.

I just hit my car again with the FMJ last week (I think it was Feb when I first did it), and by the feel of applying it, I would say it was all still there.

Enjoy!

chairman

Your G came out beautifully. My E is the same color and that is the result I am looking for.

Does anyone know where I can get a good brush that works on the sport wheels? They are a PITA to clean, I have tried a toothbrush and that is worthless.

Thanx