007

I had my car wash last week, and so I thought maybe once in a week I could just to a self car wash port where I can just rinse my car off the dust. Anyway, there was an option for spotless rinse . I rinse the car for around four minutes, but there was still spots after the rinse. I drove my car immediately after the rinse. But I guess you would still have dry the car with towels or park in shade until the water dissipates, but still the I think the latter option would probably will not work either. Can anyone chime in on this matter?

lxl_Jeffro_lxl

I'm no genius at this detailing thing but heres my guess. Possibly you just mixed the hard water that was on the car, spreading it, and creating even more water spots then before. Possibly the dust that is on the car made it a 'non-sport free shine'?

TOGWT

Maybe its just me, but the discussion of an automatic car wash on a weekly basis to maintain a vehicle seems just a little out of place on a detailing forums

sim_benz

I actually just got this really highend de-ionizing water system, and it works like a charm, i dont use it for maintenance washes like that, but i wash my car with it instead of regular water at like dusk and pull it into the garage, by morning its dry without any spotting...the thing is, as soon as dust or dirt (like if you were to drive it wet) hits the droplets of water...they are no longer pure water, and will spot. If you have a spotless system (idk how GOOD yours is...but lets just assume it does what it should) you cant just drive it wet, because that untreats the 'spotless' water that you spray on. Also, i agree that if you are just spraying spotless-system water on a dirty car it will just pick up the dirt and act like rainwater would.

I love not having to dry my car if i dont want to!

fun fact: the system I have is normally marketed to window washers, because it makes the water so pure that they can use it to wash 2nd story windows and dont need to get up on a ladder to manually dry them...they can just leave em to airdry normal w/o streaks or spots

TOGWT

The CR Spotless DI100WM provides approximately 100 gallons of mineral-free, de-ionized water based on your water input quality. It consists of two 10-inch de-ionization housings that feature replaceable cartridges that simply slide into the watertight tubes. This unit can be mounted next to your hose bib and comes with pre-drilled mounting holes.

Using a cation/anion mixture; you get twice the filter life than the mixed bed which comes with the unit. The cationic resin goes in one chamber and the anion resin goes in the other. You won't get the 0 PPM reading that you would get with the mixed bed, but it'll be around 5 PPM (spotless if less than, 25-30PPM)

Input TDS Level Expected Yield
50 PPM 1600 gallons
100 PPM 800 gallons
200 PPM 400 gallons
400 PPM 200 gallons

The unit has a water purity indicator light that, when plugged into any normal (I would advice the use of a TFI) AC outlet, illuminates when the de-ionization resin is still active, when the light no longer activates, it's time to replace the resin. (Includes two 10-inch cartridges, unit weight 30 Lbs.
http://www.crspotless.com/index

007

well, i figured it out. i went to get the car wash yesterday with the spotless rinse. after the rinse is over, i parked in the shade and towel dry. no more spots. so i think that as long as you dont drive your car after the rinse, it does work.
kinda like mr. clean spotless rinse, best results when done in the shade.

BlackLiquorish8

i always just wash my car with the tradition method and than dry it with an absorber but anyways ya def dry your car b/c if you drive your car wet it any debris will stick to the water on your car and the car will look dirty again, also if you try to dry the car after you've been driving it this will put swirls and scratches all over the paint def not a good idea. I would invest in a california duster it works great. It removes all the dust and pollen without scratching the car!