Polishing Nano Ceramic Clear Coat
05-28-2007, 03:20 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Polishing Nano Ceramic Clear Coat
Another happy new GL450 owner here!
When detailing the new paint for the first time, I did have problems getting some fine scratches and marring out of the newer MB nano ceramic particle clear coat that were apparent in direct sunlight or strong garage lights. After claying, I tried my Porter Cable Random Orbital with Sonus pads, Sonus polish and then Meguiar’s DACP, with not only no results, but at one spot worse results!
I then researched the new clear coats and found that really only Menzerna was making a new polish for the MB factories, along with a different density foam pad. I purchased them from:
http://classic-motoring.stores.yahoo.net/index.html
The polish they sell is a re-formulated Menzerna, called Blackfire Scratch Resistant Clear Finishing Polish 16 with more lubricants for a longer working time. It all worked and I am thrilled with the results! Even under a 250 watt halogen light, I removed 98% of the paint defects with two passes, one each with their CCS White and CCS Green Polishing Pads.
More importantly, the polish really shined up the paint noticeably. I then topped with three coats of Zaino Z-2 Pro and then for more durability, the new spray on Zaino Z-CS Clear Seal. Very easy now to dust and or wipe down with a detailing spray and micro fiber towel.
Thought some of you would like to know this approach works…
When detailing the new paint for the first time, I did have problems getting some fine scratches and marring out of the newer MB nano ceramic particle clear coat that were apparent in direct sunlight or strong garage lights. After claying, I tried my Porter Cable Random Orbital with Sonus pads, Sonus polish and then Meguiar’s DACP, with not only no results, but at one spot worse results!
I then researched the new clear coats and found that really only Menzerna was making a new polish for the MB factories, along with a different density foam pad. I purchased them from:
http://classic-motoring.stores.yahoo.net/index.html
The polish they sell is a re-formulated Menzerna, called Blackfire Scratch Resistant Clear Finishing Polish 16 with more lubricants for a longer working time. It all worked and I am thrilled with the results! Even under a 250 watt halogen light, I removed 98% of the paint defects with two passes, one each with their CCS White and CCS Green Polishing Pads.
More importantly, the polish really shined up the paint noticeably. I then topped with three coats of Zaino Z-2 Pro and then for more durability, the new spray on Zaino Z-CS Clear Seal. Very easy now to dust and or wipe down with a detailing spray and micro fiber towel.
Thought some of you would like to know this approach works…
05-28-2007, 11:50 AM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
While I have been detailing my own cars for 3 years, given nothing to "practice on" I am leary of going to a rotary. Also word is the factories are leaving rotaries and going to newer "long throw" dual action random's - maybe those will appear in the consumer market...
05-28-2007, 12:39 PM
#5
Great work on the detail, that black paint looks very sharp and crisp! I agree the Menzerna PO106FF is a great polish that is really efficient and effective. It's getting great results and we can barely keep it on our shelves here at DI.
To read more about the Menzerna polishes not typically found in stores you can read the Menzerna Polishes thread we have on Detail University.
I agree the ideal application for the PO106FF may be with a rotary buffer but I think it works great with an orbital buffer too. I've used it with both and the results were very impressive either way. It's always a tough call for me when I talk to customers about trying a polish with the rotary. It can be a good tool but it's just a question if the risks are worth the extra cutting power. I tend to think the PC is so much easier to use and so much less risky that it's the better choice for most people. I find the rotary buffer to only generate slightly better results which just aren't worth the downsides in my opinion. Additionally the PC has such a shorter learning curve that its a tool anyone can pick up and be good with on their first use. The rotary is something that has a longer learning curve that should start on some sort of junker or spare panel.
TOGWT do you have some sort of ball park figure of how much more effective a rotary buffer is than a PC when polishing. I realize it's a tough question to answer with so many variables, but I was curious as to your opinion. Any insight you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance as always.
Greg @ Detailed Image
To read more about the Menzerna polishes not typically found in stores you can read the Menzerna Polishes thread we have on Detail University.
I agree the ideal application for the PO106FF may be with a rotary buffer but I think it works great with an orbital buffer too. I've used it with both and the results were very impressive either way. It's always a tough call for me when I talk to customers about trying a polish with the rotary. It can be a good tool but it's just a question if the risks are worth the extra cutting power. I tend to think the PC is so much easier to use and so much less risky that it's the better choice for most people. I find the rotary buffer to only generate slightly better results which just aren't worth the downsides in my opinion. Additionally the PC has such a shorter learning curve that its a tool anyone can pick up and be good with on their first use. The rotary is something that has a longer learning curve that should start on some sort of junker or spare panel.
TOGWT do you have some sort of ball park figure of how much more effective a rotary buffer is than a PC when polishing. I realize it's a tough question to answer with so many variables, but I was curious as to your opinion. Any insight you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance as always.
Greg @ Detailed Image
Last edited by Greg@DI; 05-28-2007 at 12:41 PM.
05-28-2007, 06:35 PM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Great work on the detail, that black paint looks very sharp and crisp! I agree the Menzerna PO106FF is a great polish that is really efficient and effective. It's getting great results and we can barely keep it on our shelves here at DI.
To read more about the Menzerna polishes not typically found in stores you can read the Menzerna Polishes thread we have on Detail University.
I agree the ideal application for the PO106FF may be with a rotary buffer but I think it works great with an orbital buffer too. I've used it with both and the results were very impressive either way. It's always a tough call for me when I talk to customers about trying a polish with the rotary. It can be a good tool but it's just a question if the risks are worth the extra cutting power. I tend to think the PC is so much easier to use and so much less risky that it's the better choice for most people. I find the rotary buffer to only generate slightly better results which just aren't worth the downsides in my opinion. Additionally the PC has such a shorter learning curve that its a tool anyone can pick up and be good with on their first use. The rotary is something that has a longer learning curve that should start on some sort of junker or spare panel.
TOGWT do you have some sort of ball park figure of how much more effective a rotary buffer is than a PC when polishing. I realize it's a tough question to answer with so many variables, but I was curious as to your opinion. Any insight you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance as always.
Greg @ Detailed Image
To read more about the Menzerna polishes not typically found in stores you can read the Menzerna Polishes thread we have on Detail University.
I agree the ideal application for the PO106FF may be with a rotary buffer but I think it works great with an orbital buffer too. I've used it with both and the results were very impressive either way. It's always a tough call for me when I talk to customers about trying a polish with the rotary. It can be a good tool but it's just a question if the risks are worth the extra cutting power. I tend to think the PC is so much easier to use and so much less risky that it's the better choice for most people. I find the rotary buffer to only generate slightly better results which just aren't worth the downsides in my opinion. Additionally the PC has such a shorter learning curve that its a tool anyone can pick up and be good with on their first use. The rotary is something that has a longer learning curve that should start on some sort of junker or spare panel.
TOGWT do you have some sort of ball park figure of how much more effective a rotary buffer is than a PC when polishing. I realize it's a tough question to answer with so many variables, but I was curious as to your opinion. Any insight you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance as always.
Greg @ Detailed Image
05-29-2007, 05:30 AM
#7
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'84 380 SL/ '02 XK8
TOGWT do you have some sort of ball park figure of how much more effective a rotary buffer is than a PC when polishing. I realize it's a tough question to answer with so many variables, but I was curious as to your opinion. Any insight you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance as always.
On 'hard' clear coats I only ever use a rotary polisher, wool/foam pads and PO 106ff (thanks for the correction) Perhaps I'll try a ROB on my car (better yet her car) I would guess the time factor would be extended by 59% scientific wild a$$ guess (SWAG)
On 'hard' clear coats I only ever use a rotary polisher, wool/foam pads and PO 106ff (thanks for the correction) Perhaps I'll try a ROB on my car (better yet her car) I would guess the time factor would be extended by 59% scientific wild a$$ guess (SWAG)
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05-29-2007, 01:02 PM
#8
Fireguy - I hear ya on the crazy comments, some people just don't get it. That paint looked really sharp and I'm sure you did a good job minimizing the imperfections. That black looked great! As far as future purchases I'd be happy to help you fulfill any order. We also offer MBWorld members 10% off when you use the code "10offMBW" when checking out. Let me know if I can help you in anyway.
TOGWT - Thanks for the reply. Please keep us posted if you try using an orbital buffer. I'd be very interested in what you think.
Greg @ Detailed Image
TOGWT - Thanks for the reply. Please keep us posted if you try using an orbital buffer. I'd be very interested in what you think.
Greg @ Detailed Image
05-30-2007, 05:48 AM
#9
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'84 380 SL/ '02 XK8
Why I only use a Rotary Polisher on 'hard' clear coats or serious paint correction-
Rotary Polisher:
A polishing machine (Porter-Cable 7428) that has a direct-drive with selectable speed control that maintains a constant speed under varying loads conditions. Used mainly by body repair / paint shops or very experienced detailers to rectify more serious paint film surface imperfections using a Velcro baking plate, foam pads of varying coarseness and an abrasive compound or polish to remove swirl marks, scratches and paint defects, using their high (revolution) speed and friction heat to enable *diminishing abrasives to break down enabling them to abrade the paint film surface, this requires more power /speed than a random orbital buffer can provide.
(See also Section 13 HS Rotary Polisher)
*Diminishing abrasives- you need to allow the abrasives to break down (become progressively smaller) to create a great finish or you may impart surface marring, holograms or worse. The point at which a polish is fully broken down comes with experience but a good yard stick is when the polish has become clear and can easily be wiped off.
Rotary Polisher:
A polishing machine (Porter-Cable 7428) that has a direct-drive with selectable speed control that maintains a constant speed under varying loads conditions. Used mainly by body repair / paint shops or very experienced detailers to rectify more serious paint film surface imperfections using a Velcro baking plate, foam pads of varying coarseness and an abrasive compound or polish to remove swirl marks, scratches and paint defects, using their high (revolution) speed and friction heat to enable *diminishing abrasives to break down enabling them to abrade the paint film surface, this requires more power /speed than a random orbital buffer can provide.
(See also Section 13 HS Rotary Polisher)
*Diminishing abrasives- you need to allow the abrasives to break down (become progressively smaller) to create a great finish or you may impart surface marring, holograms or worse. The point at which a polish is fully broken down comes with experience but a good yard stick is when the polish has become clear and can easily be wiped off.
