err

I have read the sticky and properautocare.com, but I am bombarded with more information that I really need.

Anyway, I have a white c350 and I have several tough stubborn spots that won't clean even after I rub the body of the car simultaneously with my wash mit. These are really small spots that could be caused by bugs bloods & remains, or something sticky and black (not sure how to explain it better)

Any ideas or suggestion what I can use to clean these small little tough spots?

What product do I need? Links would be great Thanks!

B189s

You can try Zaino Quick Detailing with microfiber towel or other brands that carry QD..It worked all the time on my car

GL..

TOGWT

Removal of water spots - There are two categories of water spot-
a) Stage One Corrosion [: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface]

b) Stage Two Corrosion [: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage - http://www.detailuniversity.com/foru...ter-spots.html

Greg@DI

Can you describe the problem in a little more detail? Is there contamination on the surface like bug smear or do you have light etchings in the clear coat? Do you have any pictures available? What surfaces have been affected? Once I have a little more information I should be able to give you some more specific advice.

Greg @ Detailed Image

BlackLiquorish8

try some goo gone also it works... just wash the area and give it some wax after

AMG01

The biggest mistake most of us make when detailing our cars is using too harsh of chemical to treat our problem. I think that is why a couple of guys have tried to help you determine what level of spot you have. If you have bugs, bugs juice and light bug spots, tar,etc. that isn't etched into your paint I would recommend you try KAWASAKI WIPE DOWN. Yes you will have to go to your local Kawasaki shop to get it and they might have to order it. Some shops will want you to order a case (12 cans) and if you have some friends that want to go into it with you that might be ok. ( It sells for about $5.00 a can.) Otherwise I have found a website for a Kawasaki dealer in North Carolina that will let you order as few as 1 can. Depending on where you live the shipping might be as much as the product if you only order 1 or 2 cans. Their web site is: RON AYERS.COM. KAWASAKI WIPE DOWN will remove tar, bugs, bugs splatter, bug juice and even that sticky glue residue left from removing stickers. The key to using this stuff is to leave it on the spot long enough to allow it to work. I leave it on for at least 5 to 10 minutes( sometimes more) and usually the spot wipes away with light pressure and a damp cloth. You can use it on chrome and glass too, and I have found that using your fingernail to remove glue residue works best on glass. I use this stuff all summer long on every vehicle I own to keep the bugs cleaned off the front ends. With more car makers using painted plastic front ends you need to keep bugs and other contaminates cleaned off before the sun bakes them in and they become etched into the finish. One thing to remember though is to always wax the area cleaned with WIPE DOWN when you are done as it removes all wax.

Ianbiz

I used a clay bar on my car to take some of the rough water spots on my roof.

CynCarvin32

I have a white car and this is the one down fall to a white car. The fall out from the world gets into your paint and then the metal flakes start to rust. So the metal fallout flakes end up turning into red spots all over the car.

The best way to remove this is to clay the car but claying can cause swirl makrs. There are chemical cleaning systems that can remove these spots as well but sometimes a cleaner item like Klasse AIO can take care of them as well. The Klasse could remove the red stain but it likely wont remove the fall out.

So my normal solution is to use a clay bar to clay the car and then use a polisher and an orange pad from Classic Auto Care (light cutting pad) with Klasse to remove the light scratches the clay may have caused. Then after that apply a coat of your favorite sealant and you are done. I have started using Zaino Clear seal since its so simple and my white car sits out side all the time (not my perfectly kept car -- My SL55 and S63 get more careful attention). My other recommendation is to use BlackFire Wet Diamond as its likely one of the best synthetic sealants on the market today. Wet Diamond offers a deeper finish with a very that you normally only see with a wax like pinnacle sovereign wax but it lasts nearly as long as zaino. FMJ by Menzerna is a good choice as well but it really does not last very long.

Ianbiz

Good Post. Just make sure to mix up up clay and use lots of lube and it should be fine.