aznAMG07

Hey, it's my first time to attempt a complete detail. I usually just wash it then wax, which means I've never used any other product than the ones at pepboys. So, here's the deal. I did a little research, and it seems that Menzerna is one of the best brand out there.

All right, this is what I'm getting for a complete detail next week from www.detailedimage.com.

$14.99 Pre-Wash - 32oz Poorboy's World Bug Wash
$19.99 Wash - 32oz Menzerna Auto Shampoo
$23.74 Clay - Clay Magic Fine Grade Clay 200g
$13.99 Lubricant - Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe
$25.99 Polish - 32oz Menzerna FPII
$39.99 Sealant - 16oz Menzerna FMJ
$17.99 Wax - Natty's Blue Paste Wax
$199.99 PC 7424 Starter Kit
$16.XX Miscellaneous items

That is about $375 + another $100 for the airwand.

Am I missing something? Do I really need a glaze? What about wheels? MetalWax? My HRE is the brushed finished. The interior is pretty clean and just needs some vacuuming and cleaning up. What about the wood finishes? How would I clean them? In the past, I used windex... Is it possible to get a discount or something because the 5% off doesn't work with some of the itmes.

GL Troll

I haven’t heard that the Menzerna Auto Shampoo is anything extra special. You might want to save the extra $4 and get the Poorboys Super Slick & Suds.

I’d get some Menzerna Intensive Polish as well as the FPII. If you’ve got swirls marks, you’ll need to use that before the FPII.

Try some 303 Aerospace Protectant for exterior plastic and rubber and pretty much the whole interior. It’s great for tires too. It’s the best UV protection you can get.

Glaze? Good question. I’m on the fence about that right now. It’s supposed to fill and diminish the appearance of swirls and add to the gloss. Frankly I’ve experimented with some things with fillers and they don’t seem to hide swirls very well. Recently Greg@DI posted that he thinks glazes interfere with sealant bonding. https://mbworld.org/forums/showpost....26&postcount=4
That’s the first I’ve heard about that.

You can use the FMJ on your wheels assuming they’re painted and/or clearcoated.

c32AMG-DTM

use 10offMBW for 10% off - I don't think that applies to packages, though (i.e. your PC7424 starter package).

Agree that you probably don't need the glaze, and would be better served instead with an additional polishing option.

Greg@DI

I think your list is relatively complete, assuming you have a few other things already like mitts, drying towels, etc. You list has some very good products that should help clean, smooth, shine and protect your paint! I do not think a glaze is essential to the process. If you were to add another step you would be better off adding one more aggressive polish like the Menzerna Intensive Polish.

For wheels I would recommend the P21S Wheel Gel or Chemical Guys Wheel and Rim Citrus Cleaner . Both of these products use a citrus cleaning solution which is totally safe on all wheel finishes. After that you can protect the wheels with the MetalWax or Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant. These products help form a barrier between your wheels and the environment, which makes cleaning them in the future much easier.

For the coated wood you can use the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover or Plexus with a quality microfiber towel. Plexus is my absolute favorite on coated wood, Navigation screens, gauges, etc. However the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover is very versatile, because it works on plastics, vinyl, fabrics and more. I use it on my carpets, dashboard, doors, arm rests, trim, engine bay and more. Both work really well at removing dust, finger prints, etc from wood so you'll be happy either way. I spray just a light mist on a soft microfiber towel (I use our All Purpose Microfiber Towel) and wipe it on the wood. If you want to add a little protection on them you can also apply the FMJ on them after cleaning.

We offer a 10% discount code to all members of this forum which is "10offMBW". Just enter in the coupon code field while checking out and click redeem. We do offer an additional 5% off on complimentary and recommended items listed below any item you click on. We offer this additional discount because we want to encourage you to use other related products we know work well with the product you're looking at.

Please let me know if I can help you any further. Thank you in advance for supporting Detailed Image and I look forward to shipping you some great products!

Greg @ Detailed Image

aznAMG07

Thanks Greg and everyone else for their help. Let's say if I'm on a budget. Can I use the PO106ff and only it to remove little swirls? I need to manage my money somewhat and can't go all out on detailed products. Is a 32oz necessary at all or is the 16oz efficient? I know it's a better bang for your buck, but I won't be doing a complete detail often. Now the question is how often should I clay, polish, Seal, and wax? Oh, my car is black, which will show a lot of imperfections. For the discount code, will it calculate everything when I checkout except for the 7424 kit and Vac' N Blo or do I have to do separate orders?

Here's my new list.

$14.99 Pre-Wash - 32oz Poorboy's World Bug Wash
Already Have it - Wash - Meg's Gold
$23.74 Clay - Clay Magic Fine Grade Clay 200g
$13.99 Lubricant - Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe
$26.99 Polish -Swirl Removal - Menz IP
$15.99 Polish - Final - Menz PO106ff
$39.99 Sealant - 16oz Menz FMJ
$17.99 Wax - Natty's Blue Paste Wax
$199.99 PC 7424 Starter Kit
$16.XX Miscellaneous items

Greg@DI

Your order looks pretty good, I think you'll really like those polishes. Again polishing is the step where you will get the most significant and long lasting results. You will be totally fine using just the 16oz bottles, considering you really only probably need about 3 - 5 ounces per coat with each polish. I would recommend doing a full detail at least 1 - 2 times per year. This will help keep the paint really clean, smooth and vibrant looking.

Select all the items and put them in your cart and you can checkout all at once. Just put in the coupon code and it will be automatically applied to all of the applicable items. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

aznAMG07

All right, two more things. What's the difference between the IP and SIP besides the obvious prices. Finally is the Vac' N Blo worth it or should I just get the Air Wand? I really need a good, fast, and easy way to dry my car without causing swirls or imperfections.

GL Troll

My understanding is SIP requires the greater heat of a rotary or Flex to properly break down. With the PC 7424 it is better to use IP. I don’t really have much in the way of facts or experience with SIP to back this up but you can’t go wrong with IP.

I’m wondering if this applies to 106FF (vs. FPII) as well, although it shouldn’t really require much breakdown to do its job. The 16 oz containers do dispense more nicely than the 32 oz.

Greg@DI

Good questions. The SIP and IP are both medium polishes with the same relative cutting power. The big difference is the size of the abrasive particles both the PO106FF and SIP have been using a smaller and more dense collection of abrasive particles. They are smaller and smoother which means these polishes can finish down even smoother and leave the clear coat more optically clear. Both polishes work great, it's just a question of what works best for you.

I typically blot dry (pick up the towel, instead of drag) with the Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towel. Sometimes I follow up with the Metro Vac N Blo to remove all water from the joints, etc. The Vac n Blo is not really designed to air dry the whole vehicle by itself quickly. I would recommend using it combination with the microfiber drying towel.

Let me know if I can help you any further.

Greg @ Detailed Image

aznAMG07

Greg, can I use the SIP and 106FF with the PC 7424 to its fullest potential or should I just stick with IP and FPII. I'm going to order all of it this week. How long with it take to deliver to Chicago?

GL Troll

Greg, given what you said about SIP and 106FF having smother abrasives – and I know IP and FPII have fairly sharp abrasives – one would think that in theory a PC which has less ability to create friction could use the boost of a sharper abrasive. On the other hand we know SIP has a little more cut than IP and 106FF quite a bit more than FPII. But that’s all theory. The proof of the pudding is where pad meets Ceramiclear. Unfortunately because SIP is fairly new (at least to the US) and expensive I can’t find anyone talking about its use with a PC. This all may make a pretty small difference to azn but it would be interesting to know.

Greg@DI

Technically to maximize any polish you would really need a high speed rotary buffer or a Flex buffer. These buffers can generate a tremendous amount of heat to really breakdown the polish and work it in to it's full potential. You'll probably get slightly better results with the SIP and PO106FF while using a PC. It's tough to say whether or not it is totally worth it. I think you'll be absolutely fine with just the IP and FPII as well. I've used this combo for years with outstanding results. If you want the absolute best results I would get the SIP and PO106FF, if you prefer a better value I would go with the IP and FPII.

Delivery to Chicago usually takes 2 - 3 business days.

Let me know if I can help you any further.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Greg@DI

The IP and FPII still use relatively smooth abrasives compared to a lot of polishes from what I know. The SIP and PO106FF uses even smoother particles but they are more densely clustered. When using them with a PC I've gotten slightly better results with the SIP and PO106FF but again they are very close. With a higher speed buffer you can better maximize the results of the SIP and PO106FF and I think they stand out more there.

Greg @ Detailed Image

GL Troll

Thanks Greg. I may have had some erroneous assumptions.

It sounds like I need to try these. I’d be doing most of it with my Flex so there shouldn’t be any question.

Greg@DI

No worries at all, we are still always learning. I'm amazed at how much I'm still learning each and every day. It takes somewhat of a trained eye to appreciate the difference between the two sets of polishes. Optical clarity is what we're really working on while polishing and thats what these polishes excel at. Often times the clear coat of an ordinary vehicle looks clear, until you see all the oxidation and imperfections removed with a polish. Using it on flat black paint, under the right light will also really highlight the imperfections and progress from using polishes. Silver metallic paint with overcast will make virtually any paint look good. Therefore a lot of the results are about perception as well. Don't forget the IP and FPII are still far above average polishes so the results from them are still impressive in my opinion. Sorry for this tangent but hopefully it was somewhat relevant to the discussion.

Greg @ Detailed Image

GL Troll

No need to apologize. I understand the obsession.

TOGWT

You didn't mention foam pads-

The use of a duel level foam pad (primary / secondary) / single polish correction system; will change the way each polish works in accordance to which pad you use (i.e. use a polishing pad followed by a finishing pad) and will really heighten the paint finish shine.

b) For most paint correction *PO 106 FA / 106 FF a Lake County (LC) White and PO 85 D3.01 polishe with an (LC) Blue foam pad at 1000 RPM should be all you need.

GL Troll

Wow, you really meant Blue pad? Does that work for polish.

For anyone wondering that 1000 rpm is for a rotary not a PC.

Professor Miller you’ve got a couple typo’s: Country not County and polish not polishe. I’m not sure anyone would be able to make much sense of “PO 85 D3.01”. I bring these up because I assume you clipped from your book.

TOGWT

Wow, you really meant Blue pad? Does that work for polish.
For a finish / finesse polish like this one, yes

For anyone wondering that 1000 rpm is for a rotary not a PC.
This range of professional polishes were formulated for an OEM production line using HS polishers, not random orbitals (PC)

Professor Miller you’ve got a couple typo’s: Country not County and polish not polishe.
Thanks, I'll correct them (note to self-use spell check more often)

I’m not sure anyone would be able to make much sense of “PO 85 D3.01”.
PO 85 RD 3.01 - Super Intensive Polish, European ref number (US numbers are slightly different, it saves complication if I use the Menz GbHm numbering system

aznAMG07

You guys helped me alot. I appreciate it. Is the Flex really worth the $270? How would I clean the engine bay since I'm pretty scared of getting the electronics wet.

GL Troll

I feel the same way about engine bays. The standard advice is “cover all electric parts that could get wet from spray”. That’s pretty vague. I like to just wipe down what I can reach with a wet microfiber towel. It’s good to have 2 classes of towel: one for paint, glass, etc and one for dirtier jobs. The engine bay gets the dirty job towels. If it’s very dirty I wipe once to get most of the crap off and then a second time after rinsing the towel out to get it looking nice. 303 says you can use Aerospace Protectant on engine bay plastic and rubber (not the fan belts). Having 303 on hand is a must anyway so that’s easy.

My opinion is a car rarely needs to see water sprayed into the engine bay in it’s lifetime.

Greg@DI

Good questions. 'Worth it" is always a subjective topic so I'm not sure I can answer it for you. However I'll try and provide some information so you can make an informed decision. The Flex buffer is outstanding n my opinion for virtually every kind of detailer. It's easy enough to use that anyone can be a very effective detailer shortly. However it still has large amounts of power and safety that make it super effective for high end detailers. It can remove about 95% of surface imperfections so you can restore your clear coat to like new. Rotary buffers can get similar results but they are more dangerous to use and take more experience to master. Other quality orbital buffers (i.e. Porter Cable 7424) have less power and often can only remove about 50% - 70% of imperfections. If you have any other questions to help you make an informed decision please let me know.

Engine detailing can seem complicated and dangerous but in reality it's actually one of the easiest parts of the detailing process. Typically getting the nerve to try it is the hardest part. Luckily most newer vehicles are so well protected there is little harm you can do, especially if you follow the instructions below.

1. When doing an engine detail we recommend the engine be a little warm, so turn on the engine for about 1 – 2 minutes and then turn it off. If the vehicle has been driven or is hot from previous driving it may be too warm for an engine detail.

2. When the engine is at a safe temperature you can start the process. Cover any exposed electrical components (usually there are a few electrical plugs you can cover at most) and anything else you do not want water in with aluminum foil, saran wrap or something similar. Cover any exposed air filters and intakes so they don’t flood with water.

3. Spray the engine with a light mist of water. Spray degreaser over areas with grease build-ups and other heavy deposits. Avoid spraying metals and other mechanical pieces. We recommend a 3:1 dilution of Poorboy's World Bio APC. Start spraying it low or deep in the engine and work your way up towards more easily accessible areas. Let it sit for approximately 1 - 2 minutes. If you use a stronger degreaser you may want to rinse it sooner.

4. Spray down everything to remove all the degreaser and dirt and grime with a light mist from a hose. You don't want to use high-pressure water or tons of water if avoidable. Some areas may need to be wiped down with a rag or with a brush to break up heavy deposits. The debris should be loose now and fall off easily, don't rely on pressure from the hose to break up the debris.

5. Now I spot treat any areas that didn't get clean. I'll use an old rag and spray some degreaser on it and clean up any areas I see that need a light touch up. Don't forget to clean the hood that has been flipped up.

6. Make sure you have removed the tin foil or saran wrap and all other products used in the detail from the engine bay. Start the engine and let is run for at least 1 – 2 minutes to help dry some of the water. Be careful touching the vehicle after because it can get hot fast. Then finish drying anything that may need it.

7. Now I recommend treating all the (non-mechanical) vinyl, plastic and rubber pieces with a protectant such as the 303 Aerospace Protectant. Apply this to a cloth and wipe down anything that’s rubber, vinyl and plastic that’s non-mechanical. This will help prevent premature fading and keep the surface looking great. The 303 Protectant has a low gloss matte finish that looks great and helps prevent dust build up. Additionally if you have any exposed metal you can polish them now. We really like the deep polishing power of the P21S Finish Restorer. You can also apply a sealant to any painted areas in the engine bay or the under side of the hood.

8. Step back and admire a clean and sharp looking engine bay.

Let me know if I can help you any further.

Greg @ Detailed Image

GL Troll

Any thoughts on that big piece of plastic that covers most of the engine? Is it OK to remove for cleaning? I haven’t been able to do any mechanical work since I started buying new cars so these things are a mystery.

Greg@DI

The modern day bays are much more well protected with plastic casings, etc. For liability reasons I don't recommend you take it off. You certainly could I just prefer not to give out professional advice recommending it.

Greg @ Detailed Image