interior cleaning
Start off with a good cleaner.
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...ttle%2C/Detail
This is the only interior cleaner that we use, and I promise you the stuff is magical. Don't be afraid to use a lot, and use a soft bristled brush to agitate the cleaner on all surfaces. You can use a stiff bristled brush on your carpet, but use a soft brush for everything else. This will remove oils from your hands and atmospheric contaminants, as well as any grease, tar, and whatever else seems to find its way in there.
Take your time and work a small area at a time, like a door, half a dash, one floorboard, one seat, etc. After you have worked the product in with your brush just wipe with a Clean MF towel. This will remove and absorb everything that you have loosened from the surface in the cleaning process. For some of the dark spots on the carpet, a few applications and sessions with a brush might be necessary, but you would be amazed at the spots that we have removed with this simple method.
Once your seats are thoroughly cleaned with the interior cleaner, you will want to use a leather conditioner like Einszett Leather Care.
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...-924805/Detail
Simply put a small amount on an applicator pad and spread evenly over all the surfaces on your seat. Make sure that you get all the edges and crevices, and work it in a little bit to make the finish look even. After letting it sit for a minute or two, go back with a clean MF towel and buff the seats clean. This will remove any excess product and should leave your seats with an even and satin finish.
The cleaner is specifically designed for todays interior leathers, and will clean and condition them to bring back their color and texture, as well as protecting against cracking and adverse wear due to them drying out from UV exposure.
In some extreme cases, you might want to saturate it with the cleaner, hit it with the brush to really loosen everything up, then hit it lightly with some warm water and then a MF towel immediately afterwards or with a wet dry vac to try and get some of it that way. That would only be with something pretty extreme, try it with just the cleaner and the MF towel first and that should do the trick.
Don't be afraid to hit the same spot a few times, sometimes it doesn't get it all at one try, but after two or three you should be good to go.
We use cockpit premium as a last step when we detail an interior. It helps to even out any color inconsistencies an leaves a great matte finish. It is good for removing finger prints from navigation screens, dashes, smudges, stuff like that.
To be honest it is one of my absolute favorite products, I use it for everything. Cleaning the screen on my iPhone, my MacBook, tvs in the house, all that kind of stuff. I would definitely pick that up as an accompaniment to the Auto Glym interior cleaner.
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The Best of Mercedes & AMG
For 2 year old black, the paint is pretty good, but its seen its share of carwashes. Whats your strategy for a tune up? (Ive got some experience with my DeWalt varispeed buffer, but I've done most of my work trying to bring back an old paint job on the old truck.) Never used it on fairly new paint and especially black. Need some tips on pads, products, technique, etc. I plan to start by just giving it a hand job
polishing/waxing to see how much surface scratching I can remove before considering the buffer... thanks!
New Mercedes Paint is extremely hard, which makes it tough initially to get the results that you want. It just isn't friendly to work with. Now, the benefit of that inconvenience that the paint exhibits on your detailer pays huge dividends when it comes to the life and longevity of the paint and its ability to resist scratching.
Being black is another thing, that makes it hard too because every little thing is going to show. Once you start working on a Black car and correcting the paints flaws, you are left with few options. Because everything shows, you can't really go only half way, especially with something like a high speed polisher. If you want to do enough correction using a high speed polisher like your DeWalt to remove some of the more severe defects in the paint, then the polisher itself is going to leave its own marks behind in the process. Those marks will then have to be refined with further, lighter polishing steps.
To cut to the chase, this is what I recommend.
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...2C-dual/Detail
As far as polishers go, this one gives you the absolute most bang for your buck, especially in the hands of a DIYer. A high speed polisher like your DeWalt can certainly return amazing results, but with risk, and only for those that are highly skilled in the craft that is the rotary polisher. The Flex takes away that learning curve while not requiring a sharp reduction in capability in comparison. It is easy to use for someone who is new to polishing, doesn't have a steep price for committing errors like a rotary polisher does, and can generate amazing results on paints as hard as Mercedes Ceramic ClearCoats.
Pair the polisher up with some good pads and polishes, and a few quick tutorials on things to really pay attention to, and I think that you will be good to go.
Not having seen your paint, this is what I would recommend if you don't want to dip your toe too far into the polishing arena.
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...-Finish/Detail
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...ange%2C/Detail
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...hite%2C/Detail
Menzerna Power Finish, when used with the Flex is actually pretty amazing. Starting off with an Orange Pad it gives a startling amount of correction to your paint surface. It may not be able to remove some really deep stuff from something like a Benz Ceramic Clear, but it will remove all the haze, swirls, spiderwebs, etc. Leaving behind only the more intense defects that I recommend a professional deal with anyway. Then, using the same polish, you simply switch it up to the white pad to finish up. The white pad is gentle enough to correct with a great deal of clarity, while still removing some of its own small marks left behind by the orange.
That's it. I used this exact same combination about a month ago, with the Flex, on a Noble M400 and it looked staggering when I was finished.
It really is easy to use, and when you are only dealing with one polish, and only a few pads, it really takes the guesswork out of what combination you need to look for when trying to correct.
If you want a more in depth rundown PM me, I can easily walk you through a lot of the process and get you started.
Hope that helps!
To the OP, sorry for the hijack... just got excited. I should have moved this exterior to another thread...
New Mercedes Paint is extremely hard, which makes it tough initially to get the results that you want. It just isn't friendly to work with. Now, the benefit of that inconvenience that the paint exhibits on your detailer pays huge dividends when it comes to the life and longevity of the paint and its ability to resist scratching.
Being black is another thing, that makes it hard too because every little thing is going to show. Once you start working on a Black car and correcting the paints flaws, you are left with few options. Because everything shows, you can't really go only half way, especially with something like a high speed polisher. If you want to do enough correction using a high speed polisher like your DeWalt to remove some of the more severe defects in the paint, then the polisher itself is going to leave its own marks behind in the process. Those marks will then have to be refined with further, lighter polishing steps.
To cut to the chase, this is what I recommend.
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...2C-dual/Detail
As far as polishers go, this one gives you the absolute most bang for your buck, especially in the hands of a DIYer. A high speed polisher like your DeWalt can certainly return amazing results, but with risk, and only for those that are highly skilled in the craft that is the rotary polisher. The Flex takes away that learning curve while not requiring a sharp reduction in capability in comparison. It is easy to use for someone who is new to polishing, doesn't have a steep price for committing errors like a rotary polisher does, and can generate amazing results on paints as hard as Mercedes Ceramic ClearCoats.
Pair the polisher up with some good pads and polishes, and a few quick tutorials on things to really pay attention to, and I think that you will be good to go.
Not having seen your paint, this is what I would recommend if you don't want to dip your toe too far into the polishing arena.
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...-Finish/Detail
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...ange%2C/Detail
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...hite%2C/Detail
Menzerna Power Finish, when used with the Flex is actually pretty amazing. Starting off with an Orange Pad it gives a startling amount of correction to your paint surface. It may not be able to remove some really deep stuff from something like a Benz Ceramic Clear, but it will remove all the haze, swirls, spiderwebs, etc. Leaving behind only the more intense defects that I recommend a professional deal with anyway. Then, using the same polish, you simply switch it up to the white pad to finish up. The white pad is gentle enough to correct with a great deal of clarity, while still removing some of its own small marks left behind by the orange.
That's it. I used this exact same combination about a month ago, with the Flex, on a Noble M400 and it looked staggering when I was finished.
It really is easy to use, and when you are only dealing with one polish, and only a few pads, it really takes the guesswork out of what combination you need to look for when trying to correct.
If you want a more in depth rundown PM me, I can easily walk you through a lot of the process and get you started.
Hope that helps!



