Wax on plastic surfaces - removal
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 387
Likes: 2
2014 ML350 BlueTec
Wax on plastic surfaces - removal
While applying wax the first few times to my new ML350BT, I allowed my Porter Cable to go over some of the plastic surfaces at the front and rear bumpers. The textured black plastic now has dried wax on it.
What do I use to remove this?
Thanks everyone !
What do I use to remove this?
Thanks everyone !
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 431
Likes: 4
From: Cross Roads, PA
2008 ML320CDI
Some use peanut butter (smooth not chunky). Kind of funny, but I think its the combination of the oils in the peanut butter and and the pasty texture that removes the wax from the grain of the plastic.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 387
Likes: 2
2014 ML350 BlueTec
I will put it on my list but hoping that someone has another suggestion. There are some areas where I got wax that would not be good to cover with peanut butter.
Need some type of solvent that is not going to harm the plastic
Need some type of solvent that is not going to harm the plastic
Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: SoCal USA
S65 AMG
OMG, do not use peanut butter on any part of your car. I recommend cleaning the plastic parts with your car wash soap first a few times and rub heavily. This will remove some of the wax and it should look lighter. Or use coarse detailing brush to remove the dried wax.
As suggested before, then use Back to Black or any good plastic treatment to rejuvenate the plastic back to original color.
I use blue painter's tape to mask off the edges before waxing, it is quick and very effective, for your next detailing session.
Good luck!
As suggested before, then use Back to Black or any good plastic treatment to rejuvenate the plastic back to original color.
I use blue painter's tape to mask off the edges before waxing, it is quick and very effective, for your next detailing session.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 387
Likes: 2
2014 ML350 BlueTec
OMG, do not use peanut butter on any part of your car. I recommend cleaning the plastic parts with your car wash soap first a few times and rub heavily. This will remove some of the wax and it should look lighter. Or use coarse detailing brush to remove the dried wax.
As suggested before, then use Back to Black or any good plastic treatment to rejuvenate the plastic back to original color.
I use blue painter's tape to mask off the edges before waxing, it is quick and very effective, for your next detailing session.
Good luck!
As suggested before, then use Back to Black or any good plastic treatment to rejuvenate the plastic back to original color.
I use blue painter's tape to mask off the edges before waxing, it is quick and very effective, for your next detailing session.
Good luck!
Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Likes: 2
W201 190E 3.0 M103
lol, always tape up vinyl and other trim before buffing, and avoid them when hand waxing.
Try some window cleaner sprayed liberally on a cloth but don't rub too hard. Your black plastic trim is actually vinyl, solvents and cleaning agents when rubbed hard into it can fade the finish in that spot. Prepsol (wax and grease removing paint cleaner) is a stronger solvent but has more chance of fading the vinyl, but better chance of removing some of the compounds in commercial waxes. Alkalai salts like some citrus based cleaners are also good but again, don't rub too hard, use more liquid than pressure and try to tease the wax out of the texture rather than scrape it. A soft, old toothbrush and something gentle like window cleaner are a good idea.
If you find you do fade the vinyl a bit then an oil like interior vinyl treatment or armour-all can help bring it up but you'll have to re-apply it regularly or the fade spot will show up again when the treatment wears off.
Raw vinyl and matte trim are two big areas to avoid with a buff and wax in general, always tape them up. Some cars, especially SUVs have raw vinyl wheel arch flares and side skirt trims, staining these with waxes and buffing happens a lot because people don't tape them up. It's kind of a permanent result that you can only cover up with oil based treatments, but never actually remove without damaging the vinyl trim with solvent burns.
Oh yeah, FYI, solvents burn vinyl. Hence the window cleaner as always first resort, not a solvent. Next is a non-caustic degreaser like alkalai salts, diluted or prepsol but be very gentle with that.
Try some window cleaner sprayed liberally on a cloth but don't rub too hard. Your black plastic trim is actually vinyl, solvents and cleaning agents when rubbed hard into it can fade the finish in that spot. Prepsol (wax and grease removing paint cleaner) is a stronger solvent but has more chance of fading the vinyl, but better chance of removing some of the compounds in commercial waxes. Alkalai salts like some citrus based cleaners are also good but again, don't rub too hard, use more liquid than pressure and try to tease the wax out of the texture rather than scrape it. A soft, old toothbrush and something gentle like window cleaner are a good idea.
If you find you do fade the vinyl a bit then an oil like interior vinyl treatment or armour-all can help bring it up but you'll have to re-apply it regularly or the fade spot will show up again when the treatment wears off.
Raw vinyl and matte trim are two big areas to avoid with a buff and wax in general, always tape them up. Some cars, especially SUVs have raw vinyl wheel arch flares and side skirt trims, staining these with waxes and buffing happens a lot because people don't tape them up. It's kind of a permanent result that you can only cover up with oil based treatments, but never actually remove without damaging the vinyl trim with solvent burns.
Oh yeah, FYI, solvents burn vinyl. Hence the window cleaner as always first resort, not a solvent. Next is a non-caustic degreaser like alkalai salts, diluted or prepsol but be very gentle with that.
Last edited by vanir; Aug 23, 2014 at 12:52 AM.
