good affordable buffer/polisher?
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
good affordable buffer/polisher?
I really dont wanna spend more then $50-60 for one of these.
Can anyone recommend anything? Does it really matter what you use if you are just dealing with minor every day wear and tear on the paint?(swirl marks and stuff like that)
Can anyone recommend anything? Does it really matter what you use if you are just dealing with minor every day wear and tear on the paint?(swirl marks and stuff like that)
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From: Wash. D.C.
'20 S63
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57...her-69924.html
With a coupon it can be bought for about $54.00. Make sure you get the warranty........
You can read up on it here:http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ints-mods.html
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
I was considering this one but i wasnt sure how good it was. This makes me feel better about it.
I will proba ly pick it up soon with some m105 and micro fiber buffing pads. Nice to know you can do those simple mods to it
I will proba ly pick it up soon with some m105 and micro fiber buffing pads. Nice to know you can do those simple mods to it
Last edited by PJmak; May 27, 2015 at 06:35 PM.
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From: Markham
2012 c350 coupe 4matic, 1994 Toyota Supra twin turbo
Knowing the fact that you have to 'modify' the HF polisher is already a downfall. If I were you, I would spend a little more and get something more reliable and easy to use like the Porter Cable 7424XP.
Also, I wouldn't go using the Meguiars M105. That's the highest of cut they offer. Stuff like that should only be used for buffing out sanding marks and heavy scratches. If you're planning to use this product often, be cautious as your paint will thin out very fast!
Last edited by Vspec24; May 27, 2015 at 06:43 PM.
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
I will look into that buffer you mention.
What would you use for the compound?
I might have some oxidation and a few panels that werent buffed after a paintjob
What would you use for the compound?
I might have some oxidation and a few panels that werent buffed after a paintjob
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From: Markham
2012 c350 coupe 4matic, 1994 Toyota Supra twin turbo
If you want, you can check out a thread I posted on detailing my other car for some ideas and pointers:
https://mbworld.org/forums/detailing...-supra-tt.html
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From: Wash. D.C.
'20 S63
With you being new to the process I suggest you join one of the detailing forums, (like the one I provided the link to ) to get some guidance.
Here's another to get you started:http://togwt1980.blogspot.com/
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
That is a clean supra, one of my all time favorite cars.
My paint is pretty much same condition as your supra was minus the tiny dots everywhere. Its really not bad except the hood is getting hazy and has a few spots that show texture from prep before painting.
Ive been watching AMMO NYC on youtube and educating my self on this for some time. They use m105 after wet sending and it does wonders. I know for sure there are a couple smaller areas on my car that need wet sanding so id wanna have the m105 just to be safe.
Also i have a spare fender to practice on so it should be fun. Obsidian black is really worth detailing because once its perfectly clean it looks amazing. I wanna get this stuff down and take a day or two if necessary more to get the car looking perfect
My paint is pretty much same condition as your supra was minus the tiny dots everywhere. Its really not bad except the hood is getting hazy and has a few spots that show texture from prep before painting.
Ive been watching AMMO NYC on youtube and educating my self on this for some time. They use m105 after wet sending and it does wonders. I know for sure there are a couple smaller areas on my car that need wet sanding so id wanna have the m105 just to be safe.
Also i have a spare fender to practice on so it should be fun. Obsidian black is really worth detailing because once its perfectly clean it looks amazing. I wanna get this stuff down and take a day or two if necessary more to get the car looking perfect
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From: Markham
2012 c350 coupe 4matic, 1994 Toyota Supra twin turbo
If you're going to attempt wet sanding, be very careful especially on repainted surfaces as you don't know how thick the clear coat is that they sprayed. Even a paint thickness meter won't give you a precise idea on how thick it is and how far you can go. Try compounding first before attempting wet sanding. You always want to start from the bottom instead of going straight to aggressive cutting/sanding.
The guy at AMMO is great! But the majority of the cars he details are of original paint. You somewhat have to take a different approach on resprayed cars. Best of luck and feel free to PM me any questions.
The guy at AMMO is great! But the majority of the cars he details are of original paint. You somewhat have to take a different approach on resprayed cars. Best of luck and feel free to PM me any questions.
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
Thanks for your input 
Starting with the least aggressive is definetly something ive learned from watching his videos.
Im trying to gather everything i need at this point. I think with some practice on my spare panel ill get it down. I have an idea of dos and donts of detailing but you can always learn more as you go.
From what ive seen its very important to distribute the compaund across your pad evenly. Rub it in with your fingers and clean it regularly as you detail because the stuff that comes off the car sticks to the pad and created new swirls as you go. Very important step that people overlook.
I have a air compressor and basic car cleaning stuff so far. Need a buffer, compound, good cutting and polishing pads, clay, and a buncha more stuff.
Just wanna make sure i get a decent buffer to start with then ill go from there
I really appreciate your input btw. Im excited to do my own work. I feel like i cant trust people nowadays
Starting with the least aggressive is definetly something ive learned from watching his videos.
Im trying to gather everything i need at this point. I think with some practice on my spare panel ill get it down. I have an idea of dos and donts of detailing but you can always learn more as you go.
From what ive seen its very important to distribute the compaund across your pad evenly. Rub it in with your fingers and clean it regularly as you detail because the stuff that comes off the car sticks to the pad and created new swirls as you go. Very important step that people overlook.
I have a air compressor and basic car cleaning stuff so far. Need a buffer, compound, good cutting and polishing pads, clay, and a buncha more stuff.
Just wanna make sure i get a decent buffer to start with then ill go from there
I really appreciate your input btw. Im excited to do my own work. I feel like i cant trust people nowadays
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
I have a chance to pick up this locally for a good price. Can someone educate me on pros and cons of this polisher based on the specs?
http://www.toolbarn.com/milwaukee-5460-6.html
http://www.toolbarn.com/milwaukee-5460-6.html
Last edited by PJmak; Jun 2, 2015 at 03:10 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Wash. D.C.
'20 S63
I have a chance to pick up this locally for a good price. Can someone educate me on pros and cons of this polisher based on the specs?
http://www.toolbarn.com/milwaukee-5460-6.html
http://www.toolbarn.com/milwaukee-5460-6.html
That's a Rotary Polisher. If you've never used one before I would start with a DA (dual action) polisher as you can do a lot of damage to the paint with the rotary.
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From: Markham
2012 c350 coupe 4matic, 1994 Toyota Supra twin turbo
^^^ What he said. Rotary Polishers are powerful! The heads on them don't stop spinning no matter how hard you press down on them, which means you can easily burn through your paint if you're not careful.
Pros:
-being Milwaukee, should be pretty reliable
-powerful 11amp motor
Cons:
-heavy: your arms are gonna be tired if you plan to use this on the whole car
-more skills required to use a rotary vs. DA polishers
Pros:
-being Milwaukee, should be pretty reliable
-powerful 11amp motor
Cons:
-heavy: your arms are gonna be tired if you plan to use this on the whole car
-more skills required to use a rotary vs. DA polishers
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Earth, USA, Atlanta, GA
E55
I have the harbor freight DA. With the proper pads and technique I have had some amazing results. It's pretty loud...I'm pretty sure it's the angle grinder with a DA head on it lol
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From: Markham
2012 c350 coupe 4matic, 1994 Toyota Supra twin turbo
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From: longisland newyork
1995 SL320
heres what i did with harbor freight speed buffer and regular cheap products
wet sand 1200/1500/2000 depending on paint condition
i like to work in sections (MEANING WET SAND/CLEAN THE SECTION THEN COMPOUND)
turtle wax compound green bottle with yellow foam pad
turtle wax green bottle with black foam pad
nu finish with white pad
wet sand 1200/1500/2000 depending on paint condition
i like to work in sections (MEANING WET SAND/CLEAN THE SECTION THEN COMPOUND)
turtle wax compound green bottle with yellow foam pad
turtle wax green bottle with black foam pad
nu finish with white pad
Last edited by grays; Aug 15, 2015 at 07:14 PM.
