After driving the same 1984 BMW 533i for the last 20 years (188,000 miles), my wife gets a well deserved new car this year. She chose the 2005 E320 CDI (over BMW, Jaguar, Cadillac, etc.), so we have just ordered one for USA delivery in September. Although I have been a bimmer fan for 20 years, I am very happy with her choice. I agree with her that the E320 is the best all-around choice. I haven't driven a Mercedes-Benz for 20 years, so I was amazed at how MB's handle now.

My question concerns car care. What should I do when the car arrives? I use the following products on my Miata:

Shampoo - P21S Bodywork Conditioning Shampoo
Clay Treatment - Pinnacle PolyClay Kit
Polish - Menzerna Final Polish II
Polish/Sealant - Klasse All-In-One
Glaze – None
Quick Detailer - Sonus High Gloss Acrylic Spritz
Vinyl/Rubber protector - 303 Aerospace Protectant
Leather Cleaner – Lexol Leather Cleaner
Leather Conditioner – Lexol Leather Conditioner

According to Classic Motoring Accessories, Ltd.
http://store.yahoo.com/classic-motoring/aregepadi.html
these products work well on German finishes.

Questions:
1. Should I give the new E320 the full treatment as soon as it arrives? Or instead, should I skip the clay treatment and polish, and just apply the Klasse All-in-One? Or should I do nothing for a while?
2. Do you agree that these are good products for a Mercedes-Benz?

Thanks!
Mike

 

I would wash the car with Dawn detergent (the original blue unscented stuff) first, to remove whatever cheap wax the dealer tried to put on it.
Then, clay the car. Even new cars will benefit from claying because the shipping process tends to leave the paint contaminated with rail dust and other industrial pollutants. After claying, wash the car again with Dawn (you can use ordinary car wash soap if you wish, but Dawn is cheaper) to remove the clay residue.

You don't need to polish the paint after claying unless it already has swirl marks from the dealership. If the paint looks fine, skip it. Then apply the wax.

 

Although good advice I think it may be a bit extreme...

If your paint is smooth to the touch then there is probably not contaminants and hopefully there are no swirls.

Just wash with car wash soap which by itself will remove some of the "cheap dealer's wax" and apply a couple of coats of wax, not polish. If your car is of a dark color, wax in up and down motions in the direction the air travels over the car(wash/dry in that direction too). This will avoid swirls as will using wax and not polish.

Use eagle one wax as u dry after every wash and it will leave that smooth just waxed feeling with added protection; just spray on the car while still wet and dry.

P.S. If the dealer did put swirls in the paint of your brand new car, I'd return the car and ask for a replacement as removing swirls requires a lot of polishing and or use of a filler. I insisted my dealer only hand wax my car prior to delivery and have 0 swirls plus it's a black car. Most of the high end dealers I've been to lately have been hand applying the wax and using hand or an orbital to remove it.

Best of luck

 

the cars are covered with a plastic film while being shipped over so im sure the car will be fine when it arrives and congrats on the new purchase.

 

Quote: the cars are covered with a plastic film while being shipped over so I'm sure the car will be fine when it arrives and congrats on the new purchase.

~One man’s opinion / observations ~

Rail Dust:
Small particles of metal (ferrous oxide) created by railroad wheels abrading the metal tracks, these particles become airborne and pollute paint film surfaces. New cars that are transported by rail are at extra risk. When moisture combines with the metal particles rust is formed, creating small rust spots, allied with acid rain they will cause the metal under the paint system to rust.

I would apply detailer’s clay especially to a new car

RapGard (Plastic Transit Film):
Many manufacturers are using this white plastic covering in place of synthetic or wax based shipping coatings (Cosmoline) The plastic becomes brittle with age (90 to 180 days) and becomes difficult to remove as it "shreds" while being pulled off, additionally there is excess adhesive residue left on the surface.

Spray or wipe Isopropyl Alcohol on to the Rap Guard or Plastic Film and the painted surfaces. Allow it to remain on the surface for 3 to 5 minutes. Saturate a soft clean towel with Isopropyl Alcohol and gently wipe away the RapGard / Plastic Film pieces and adhesive. Wash vehicle with a car wash concentrate diluted 1 oz. per gallon of water.

It is often the removal of the plastic film that causes ‘swirl marks’ not the use of a ROB as ‘junior’ members of staff can remove the plastic whereas the ROB needs an experienced detailer.

PS: What is the bigger myth, "Washing the car with Dawn dish-washing detergent (the original blue unscented stuff)" or the use of "Saddle Soap as automotive leather cleaner" ?


~Hope this helps~

Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon
justadumbarchitect * so I question everything *

 

MB's in my area of the country, after shipped via closed cargo from Germany are trucked to the dealership. I think it's very rare for a car to sit in VPC for 3-4 months and the film is generally removed quiclky. I had no need what so ever to clay any of the last 6 new MB's I purchased and 4 were from different dealerships. If the surface of the car is not absoulety smooth to the sensitive touch only then clay. Claying can add scratches (no matter how much deatil spray is used) to a dark soft color so only use when abosutely necessary!

Saddle soap on a new car's leather? I'd say probably not a good idea.

 

I guess your paint will be the nano paint... that stuff rocks! Even after more than 6 months no (in words... NO) swirl marks at all!!

For my leather (charcoal, ventilated seats) I use Leatherique every 3 months. Restores color, smell and softness and protects the leather from the hard sun.