When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
How do you deal with rock chips- Paint recommendations
Seems this year was bad for getting rock chips and door dings all over my car. I go out of my way to park at empty areas in store parking lots but im amazed at how many times ill come out and someone is parked right next to me and theres nothing but empty spaces everywhere else. Its maddening.
Ive seen plenty of videos on how to repair rock chips but im wondering if anyone has an easy way that works for them. I previously bought a small nail polish bottle sized container of color match paint off ebay and it blends in just ok. I have only really used it on the plastic bumpers where chips of paint flaked right off. I dont really care how well these come out but the rock chips on my hood and a few dings on the doors I want to get as good as i can. Im seeing some rust so this is the main reason i want to get it done before winter.
Ill either use the brush in the bottle to apply it, or if the chip is small ill dip a syringe in the bottle and use the tip of the needle to dab the paint in the chip.
Ive searched around for a small bottle of color match pain but havent come up with many options. Does anyone know a good color match paint to get? My paint is 755U Tenorite Gray Metallic Paint. I will say the Tenorite Gray exterior with the Alpaca gray color interior is the best color combination in the entire world.
Seems this year was bad for getting rock chips and door dings all over my car. I go out of my way to park at empty areas in store parking lots but im amazed at how many times ill come out and someone is parked right next to me and theres nothing but empty spaces everywhere else. Its maddening.
Ive seen plenty of videos on how to repair rock chips but im wondering if anyone has an easy way that works for them. I previously bought a small nail polish bottle sized container of color match paint off ebay and it blends in just ok. I have only really used it on the plastic bumpers where chips of paint flaked right off. I dont really care how well these come out but the rock chips on my hood and a few dings on the doors I want to get as good as i can. Im seeing some rust so this is the main reason i want to get it done before winter.
Ill either use the brush in the bottle to apply it, or if the chip is small ill dip a syringe in the bottle and use the tip of the needle to dab the paint in the chip.
Ive searched around for a small bottle of color match pain but havent come up with many options. Does anyone know a good color match paint to get? My paint is 755U Tenorite Gray Metallic Paint. I will say the Tenorite Gray exterior with the Alpaca gray color interior is the best color combination in the entire world.
I heard good reviews with Dr. Color Chip and Langka Paint Kit as well, never personally used it myself though. The former company custom mix the paint for your vehicle.
I have used dr color chip and love it , it is easy to use once you get the hang of the leveling procedure and dont rush the process. really cool process
I have used dr color chip and love it , it is easy to use once you get the hang of the leveling procedure and dont rush the process. really cool process
That frustration at door dings is so true as some people just don't mind how they park. For chips, especially on the hood, it’s recommended to apply a small amount of color using a toothpick or paint syringe, and once dry, add a tiny dab of clear coat to seal it. After it cures, a light hand polish can be done. It won’t be perfect like a body shop repair, but it’s a significant improvement over leaving the area exposed.
That frustration at door dings is so true as some people just don't mind how they park. For chips, especially on the hood, it’s recommended to apply a small amount of color using a toothpick or paint syringe, and once dry, add a tiny dab of clear coat to seal it. After it cures, a light hand polish can be done. It won’t be perfect like a body shop repair, but it’s a significant improvement over leaving the area exposed.
Ugh the worse is you purposely look for a spot that has no cars and then next thing you know when you get back to the vehicle, two pickups are parked right beside you.
2019 AMG S 65 and too many other vehicles to list here in this small box
My biggest fear when I think about taking any of my collector cars out for a drive is not the risk of an accident but actually it's rocks being thrown up and hitting the paint or the windshield.
I don't like PPF so I have learned (over several decades) how to repair the paint with acceptable results.
Here are some of my tips:
Do not do the repair in the sun. Do it inside or in the shade where the paint and the metal is room temp. You must have very good lighting to see what you're doing.
NEVER use the brush provided from the paint supplier...NEVER. They are a joke unless your painting your fingernails. They are getting harder to find but a regular old pack of paper matches is the best paint brush. Pull one of the paper matches out and the end of the match "torn" from the pack makes a perfect paint brush and is disposable and replaceable with the next match. There are detail brushes also available that work well but matches are usually free at bars and restaurants.
Have patience. It takes time and effort to get good results. Apply the paint in very small quantities and let it dry before attempting to add more. Paint chips are cavities that need to be filled but in layers, not a single glob of paint. Adding small amounts will allow the paint to fill the crater to the edge. Once the crater is filled to the edge, the last bit of paint applied will provide a little hump that can be worked out smooth in the polishing steps.
Try not to get too much paint built-up above the crater as this step is to smooth out and level the filled paint. A paint blemish or "nub" file can help if you have a high hump to shave down without damaging the surrounding paint finish. Typically, using sanding pads can smooth out and level the hump if you didn't build it up much. Sanding pads come in variety of grit levels. Start with1500-2000 and progress up to 3000 grit to smooth out the hump and blend with surrounding paint.
Use polishing compound (NOT rubbing compound) to polish the sanded area and remove the fine sanding marks. It will take several passes and elbow grease to get a perfect finish but it is possible.
The best suggestion I can offer is to apply the touch-up paint in very small amounts and build it up in layers. Patience grasshopper and you will learn.
Last thought... I have seldom used clear coat when making repairs. I have but can't tell the difference when finished. I have just been using the base color to fill and repair without messing with the clear coat. IMO, it's not worth it.
My biggest fear when I think about taking any of my collector cars out for a drive is not the risk of an accident but actually it's rocks being thrown up and hitting the paint or the windshield.
I don't like PPF so I have learned (over several decades) how to repair the paint with acceptable results.
Here are some of my tips:
Do not do the repair in the sun. Do it inside or in the shade where the paint and the metal is room temp. You must have very good lighting to see what you're doing.
NEVER use the brush provided from the paint supplier...NEVER. They are a joke unless your painting your fingernails. They are getting harder to find but a regular old pack of paper matches is the best paint brush. Pull one of the paper matches out and the end of the match "torn" from the pack makes a perfect paint brush and is disposable and replaceable with the next match. There are detail brushes also available that work well but matches are usually free at bars and restaurants.
Have patience. It takes time and effort to get good results. Apply the paint in very small quantities and let it dry before attempting to add more. Paint chips are cavities that need to be filled but in layers, not a single glob of paint. Adding small amounts will allow the paint to fill the crater to the edge. Once the crater is filled to the edge, the last bit of paint applied will provide a little hump that can be worked out smooth in the polishing steps.
Try not to get too much paint built-up above the crater as this step is to smooth out and level the filled paint. A paint blemish or "nub" file can help if you have a high hump to shave down without damaging the surrounding paint finish. Typically, using sanding pads can smooth out and level the hump if you didn't build it up much. Sanding pads come in variety of grit levels. Start with1500-2000 and progress up to 3000 grit to smooth out the hump and blend with surrounding paint.
Use polishing compound (NOT rubbing compound) to polish the sanded area and remove the fine sanding marks. It will take several passes and elbow grease to get a perfect finish but it is possible.
The best suggestion I can offer is to apply the touch-up paint in very small amounts and build it up in layers. Patience grasshopper and you will learn.
Last thought... I have seldom used clear coat when making repairs. I have but can't tell the difference when finished. I have just been using the base color to fill and repair without messing with the clear coat. IMO, it's not worth it.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
