str8ridin

Well, I just picked up the Porter Cable 7336sp and Sonus DAS Pads. Now I'm ready for some polishes and waxes!!

Now, I keep hearing about the Zaino product line, so I want to buy all the products that I need in one fell swoop.

I have light swirls and want to get rid of them and clean, polish and wax the paint well. What products should I buy from the Zaino product line?

What about Maguire's professional line. Which #'s should I get to fully detail my black car?

Any other recomendations or combinations that I should be aware of?

ano0oj

Get the full Zaino Professional line if anything. I think its like $128? From pictures, there is no other you should go with

jonw440

Or you can try the Sonus SFX polishes. I have nevr used Zaino, but I have used the Sonus polishes on my Wife's Black 04 Durango.

KOMPRESSORnSC

Zaino has no polishes. It is strictly an LSP. You have to prep the surface prior to Z. As far as which polishes, there are as many opinions as there are choices, and it is mind boggling to figure out what is the *best*. Personally, I use 3M SMR & MG, but will probably switch to Menzerna polishes in the spring because there are no fillers. Keep in mind that if you use a polish with a filler, it will have to be cleaned off before application of Z. AIO is popular for pre-Zaino for this reason.

As far as what you need from Zaino (paint only): ZFX, Z2 / Z2 Pro or Z5, and Z7. The shampoo (Z8 I believe) is nice, but I have just as good of luck with less expensive washes. The new Z2 Pro has been getting rave reviews on Autopia since it came out a few months ago.

So be sure to use a good clay (Clay magic is my choice-cheap and locally available), and polish until you get as close to perfection as you can. Then apply your Z. Z tends to enhance any surface imperfections, so make sure you have the look you want before applying it-good lighting while polishing is key.

jonw440

The problem with Menzerna IP and FP is they dont work well very well with the PC. (PC doesnt break the polish down or heat it up enough)Now if you have a rotory, menzerna is fantasic!! Menzrna is really meant for a rotory buffer.

KOMPRESSORnSC

Hmmm...I've never heard that. I've seen both of them used with a PC & didn't notice. And it was a pro, so he has a rotary, but used the PC.

I've got to try something else, not real happy with the 3M. I've read the sonus reviews and they're so opposite, I'm not sure I want to take the chance with them.

jonw440

What do you mean "So opposite"?

I used all three SFX polishes on my Wifes brand new BLACK 04 Durango last fall.I started on the door with the SFX-1 and the SFX pads. I put the PC on 4 and started polishing. When I was done it not only removed the "Dealer installed" swirl marks, it even knocked down the orange peel!
I was kind of worried about the amount I polished but the SFX-2 brought the shine back ABOVE what it looked like on an untouched part of the door.
I then finished with the SFX3 polish and sealed with Klasse AIO and SG.
I really like them./
I have Menzerna IP & FP, 1Z UPP,PP,MP, 3M Swirl mark remover, Meguiars Swirl mark remover and the Sonus polishes are by far the easiest and most effective polishes I have used.

KOMPRESSORnSC

On Autopia, the reviews were either 'these are are the most user friendly polishes I have ever used' or 'these are the most difficult polishes I've ever used'. I've been following the threads and they seem pretty split. I was really interested in the Sonus until I started seeing the negative reviews. Just not sure now...

str8ridin

Ok, well, all that being said, what about Maguires Proffesional line?

I would like to wash, clay and:

1: Remove light swirls
2: Polish
3: Wax/protect

What Maguires Proffesional line products would I need? Also, where does Glaze fit into all of this?

Thanks for the input so far.

TOGWT

I've been using 3M polishes for as long as I can remember (and I've been detailing for five decases, thus far) although I try amny of the others 3M's remain my go-to polishes, these polishes have been around for a lot longer than most and used extensivly by pros in Europe. I wonder if any one will be posting this about any other polishes 50 years on.

Name/PN #/cutting ability 0/10
3M Perfect It
Extra Cut Rubbing Compound III
(05936)
8/10
Micro Finishing Compound II
(39001)
7/10
Fine Cut II (39002)
6/10
Machine Polish II
(39003)
5/10
Machine Glaze III
(05937)
4/10
Swirl Mark Remover II (39009)
3/10
Imperial Machine Glaze
(00591)
2/10

As was stated Menzerna require the 'heat' of a rotary to be fully effective, they will 'work' with a PC but...

CrobarCars

KOMPRESSORnSC I have to agree with you 1000% about the Menzerna products. They work excpetionally well with a PC without a huge effort!

This link is proof: https://mbworld.org/forums/detailing-automotive-care/108003-s500-detailing-day.html

Menzerna made this job most rewarding: PC with a Polishing pad on speed 5, with mild engaging of the machine head.

In fact, the Menzerna label states these products Menzerna IP and FPII can be used by hand. I have done so on small spotted areas. You must not be afraid to really DIG into the terry towel, used for more bite than a MF towel, in order to see results. Also, while digging in there must be a constant mindset for damage. It is a "feel" thing , however it does work, but not without some serious ELBOW GREASE!

CrobarCars

KOMPRESSORnSC: I will say, since Menzera is a water based polish, on a hot day it may have the tendency to gum up a little more than some of the Meguiar's oil enriched polishes or even more than the Poorboy's SSR line of polishes. I simply spray some water on my pad to keep it a bit moist and this elliviates much of the gumming up concern. Please do not let this minor inconvenience detour you away from these wonderful products.

I use and like very much the Meguiar's line, PoorBoy's SSR's, Menzerna, and the 3M line as well. I find, I use them all differently, for different approaches based on what I see as the condition of the paint, for the purpose of gaining a beautifully detailed car.

How I wish the car to look in the end will also determine which products I use. Example: If I am working on a car in a maintenance program and the owner likes a very wet look, I tend to stick with the Meguiar's products and a carnuba topper or a Meguair's sealent. (sometimes there is a n advantage to working within one line of products since they are designed to interact together chemically.)

If I know I will not see the car in a long time, I would tend to use a sealent and again consult with the customer as to how they would like the finish to appear ie: Wet, more Reflective, Deep, etc.....

They are all very good products. Practice and technique go along way to get the most out of all these products. I believe Process over Product is very important in detailing. They do have different characteristics and their own personalities. Many times which one you like best is a matter of personal preference. To read one say one is HORRAH-BLE or NOT GOOD may be to harsh, based on these high quality products. One stating they prefer this one over that one would be a less emotional reponse. Although I give a big thumbs up for PASSION! in Detailing.

Sometimes, I find if there is a split camp, in terms of public opinion,
it comes down to personal bias. An example of this is when I am polishing and a customer may comeout to see the process. Inevitably, I get asked, "Wow I see so many imperfections that I didn't before." They have some concern on their face as well, thinking their car will not look as good as before, even though it is much cleaner and shinier. I assure them I am not yet finished and their car will be better than when it left the showroom floor. Also, I explain what polishing actually does. In using a PC/Rotory, we are taking down the sharp edges of the scratch or swirl thereby not allowing the sun to reflect off them and hence elliminating the problem. However, if the surface is deeply swirled, the PC can only get the top layers of scratches/swirls and the deeper imperfections seem to "rise to the top" because they cannot be touched by the PC. Only HEAT can do the job efficiently without taking off anymore Clear than is necessary to do the job. Hence, in this example, the use of a Rotory, inthe hands of an experienced Enthusiast or Detailer would have been a better choice. HEAT is realy the only method of complete paint correction. Without experience, HEAT can cause more damage than is worth.

It is so very important to conserve the clear on our cars. Always attempt the least agressive product and pad combination before going to a more aggressive combination. this will save years of Pain and Expense in the future and avert a possible clearcoat failure.

Some questions you can ask before choosing a product:
1. How do I want the outcome of the car to look like? What products should I choose to achieve this look?
2. Do I wish to work on the car weekly?, bi-weekly?, monthly, every 6 weeks?
3. Do I want a multiple pass polishing cycle or simply a one step and possible use a glaze to hide minor imperfections left over?
4. Is the piant/clearcoat damaged to the point of using a Rotory or can a PC do the job effectively. (again think least agressive first.)
5. VERY IMPORTANT: Is the amount of Paint/Clear thick enough to sustain what may be required to effectively become swirl free. (granted this question may not be as pertinent on newer cars. However, it may be very important on used or older generation cars and even single stage painted vehicles.)

One method I used to sort through many of these different products is to look at the end result of the detailer and determine if you like his/her end result. If you do, see what products they use and how, and put it to work for you.