What I can see from one of the pictures in the first post is that this device is plugged between the fuel rail and the fuel rail sensor - correct me if I am wrong, thus the only change you can achieve is increased fuel rail pressure. There is no way to alter injection duration or the timing w/this box, those will remain unchanged but more fuel will be injected because of the higher fuel pressure = more HP and so on.
Some people claim that V6 BlueTec will readjust after some time based on all sensor data and box like this will have no effect at all.

 

Thanks isstay

 

Hey Terry. I saw this post from last year just now.

I've used tuning boxes on other diesel cars and I'm a believer in them. In this thread, you mention that the JBD for the 2013 Mercedes should work on the 2.1-liter diesel that Merc came out with recently in the GLK250. Is that still the case?

There's a tuning company out of the UK who's trying to convince me that any tuning box on a newer Mercedes must be directly attached to the car battery or else error codes will get thrown out and the car will shut down. Would you say that's total BS? And yeah, this particular tuner is also claiming that a separate channel for "boost control" is also required on top of the common rail connecting wire PLUS the connector to the battery. BS too in your opinion?

Thanks for your time.

Roscoe

 

Increasing rail pressure works, and I'll even admit fairly well. Proper injector sizing is a WAY more expensive option for getting more fuel into the motor. My concern with these mods is primarily the cost in life to the injectors themselves, the pumps seem more than happy to make 23,000 or 26,000 or even 30,000 psi. I recently reflashed and bumped rail pressure only slightly from approx 23,000 to 23,650 psi along with longer duration/higher duty cycle on injectors. I am still VERY safe on EGT as EGR was killed at the same time and I have straight pipe exhaust. I've considered a Kleeman box for play days but would hesitate to use 2000 Bar injection pressure daily.

Am I wrong in thinking such a large jump in rail pressure is a bad idea? For those of you with rail pressure mods what downsides have you seen? I'm already at tranny torque limit until a bit over 3,000 rpm so future mods are aimed more squarely at keeping lower and middle rpm ranges where they are at now but increasing 3500-4500 rpm power. Thoughts?

 

Not really bad idea if you consider every other aspect of the fuel system. If you are running stock HPFP and stock Quantity Control Valve you may not be able to supply enough fuel at high engine speeds, thus why I postponed installation of upgraded turbo until I get my fuel pump and valve upgraded (it will deliver 45% more fuel compare to stock one), especially when you have injection duration and pulse width modifications (more fuel injected).

 

When mines goes I'm thinking CP3 from a truck!

 

Too much hassle since all of them are gear driven and the OEM is more like shaft coupling inside of the gear connected to the chain, even OM642 is gear driven. Cost will be same but it may not be reliable as much since you will have to do fabrications on the shaft. Plus the mounting plate that holds and feeds the pump is different with different mounting points.

OM648 vs. OM642

 

The CP3's are obviously belt driven...fab required, not ideal I agree, it is a beautiful pump however, capable of supporting more power than I could ever want to make really.

Took a few friends to lunch today, one owns a Ferrari 308, the other bounces between sports cars so fast it makes my head spin, 3rd was my 12 year old, to say at least two were shocked is not a good enough description, the 12 year old was not, he has a pretty good baseline for fast. The W211 may not be legitimately fast in the modern world but it definitely surprised them...made me smile.

 

No is not belt driven, it connects to a gear inside the engine that is driven by the timing chain. Both are CP3 pumps.

 

Oh, I'd just seen a belt drive cp3 dual fueled system for a Cummins the other day, confusion. Apparently hot stuff in truck world right now is running a pair of them, I guess one in stock gear drive location and another as a belt driven supplemental? Forgive me, I'm in Texas and the only diesel shops around here that cater to tuning of any variety only care about monster motor Cummins, Iveco, Isuzu, IH of Ford based stuff...big three US brands basically. I am slowly infecting a neighbor with a VW tdi though, its so fun to watch him add parts or remove them and be marveled.

I have an F350 6.0 too for work but that motor is such a pile of feces I've left it dead stock with mixed results for 135k miles now, I waited too long to kill egr on it so though disconnected electrically, the valve is stuck open, the internal piping a disaster, the EGR cooler more or less junk, a couple more injectors that work sporadically when cold. I HATE that truck but, feces or not, its cheaper to keep it running at a subsistence level for heavy hauling than to make it right. I so regret selling the 7.3 F250 that I had before it. Flashing is pointless at this time, more power is begging for new head studs and gaskets. I've had to pull and de-coke the turbo twice according to Ford supplied service directive to kill boost surge. Junk, will never again buy a Ford. When the right sucker comes along its getting replaced with an 03-05/6 Cummins 6 speed manual 2WD 3/4 ton, something I can actually trust not to leave me on side of highway in the middle of nowhere, this has happened enough times to make me very angry, it's the only vehicle I have ever bought new, lesson learned. 13-14.5 mpg true in no load highway cruising in summer on decent fuel, 4.5-7mpg loaded with 15-20k lbs...fuel goes on company card as will the replacement truck eventually, as an owner of the company I'm still cheap enough to wait till the iron is hot to smash the steel.

I'll have to look into the pump/drive you suggested, mine is fine for now so baby steps. I have a stack of Walbro 255 and 255HP pumps at shop for turbo bikes and they make killer lift pumps when I get around to needing a lot of extra fuel delivery to the real pump.

 

Not planning to go that extreme but it is same technology and you can find common parts and info. My vision is to simplify my engine (EGR removed, new intake manifold and maybe custom exhaust) and add power to it, but doing so I also want to stay in the safe zone, which is not easy after you start looking at whole picture - already up the turbo but this may lean too much the mixture = high EGT, thus why I am working on HPFP upgrade, then something has to handle all that torque = Wave Track differential. Fuel injectors will be left alone for now until they need to be rebuild, by then I will have to find bigger turbo, have a head gasket and ARP head bolts on hand to overhaul up section of the engine.

 

ARP stuff really works, and the price is reasonable IMHO. We used on our big bore/supercharged/nitrous/methanol injected Land Speed V-Twin after having issues on motor number three with even new stock studs. No more cylinder/head lift issues, have run same head gaskets for over a year now though the bike is no longer ridden often in extreme duress.

If you are seriously curious to try a custom straight pipe exhaust, well I cannot say enough good things about the results, especially not with native ecu reflash and egr deleted. I got 38.6mpg on my 23 mile loop for commuting home last night, I cannot complain. I'll get videos done eventually, I makes noise but only loud under heavy load, transmission kick down is now best avoided for passing, 60-100mph is over in a flash at half throttle or so with a truly wicked pull.

 

Cat delete is in works. Have schedule 10 316L SS pipe for some months but will work on it when weather permits. Also I been looking for AMG mufflers for some time now.

 

I'm running my favorite muffler of all time, a VNT turbocharger, nothing else at all. It's really not loud at all in car as you drive, with windows down it sounds wonderful actually. I have some sort of pipe on almost all my cars, only the nsx escaped the home built fate, but I didn't like the droning sound so even the $$$$ aftermarket silencers set got modified with straight, non resonator tips for a much sharper more mechanical note.

Ironically I prefer my guns quieter than my motors, I don't believe in stupid loud pipes on anything street driven however. Heck, my Vespa 300 Super, also much modified (stock 14.6 bhp, 23.3 bhp now) has an Akrapovic ti pipe and a customized ti db killer insert I made from an Aprilia off road race bike flame arrester part. Noise does not equal power in most non turbine applications.

Guess I might as well mention since this a tuning thread I'm using the Green Diesel Engineering flash, slightly edited at this time with only 650 psi increase in rail pressure, it's actually just another version of "Unleashed, AlienTech, Rexxer and a few other names". I have the editor version of the software through Rexxer but the base mapping all appears to be AlienTech out of Italy. I went with Green Diesel Engineering only because they are awesome to work with and are the aftermarket champions bar none for my Liberty CRD which will start getting similar mods as soon as I finish up collecting parts and have two days of my life to lose on the labor side to do timing belt and such.

 

You are right Turbo Diesels don't make much noise compare to gasoline counterpart with similar engine size. I may end up with opening my mufflers and building simple two chambers resonator.

 

I shied away from ECU flashes when a dealer tried to tune my 2010 Golf TDI, completely unaware that new encryption measures would completely brick the ECM if tampered with via the OBDII port. Since then, despite claimed advances in flashing from certain vendors, I've since stuck to fuel pressure piggyback tunes. No, they're not ideal, but once bitten...

 

We do a lot of AlienTech flash work on motorcycles, while they technologically lag a decade behind cars in terms of electronic sophistication you can still brick up an ecu amazingly easy. The good news is that it is very rare to brick one in such a way as to make it unrecoverable. It can easily make a thirty minute job into a 3-5 hour job but it comes with the territory.

Green Diesel is just a version of AlienTech so I wasn't to scared of it, worst case scenario I might have been down an extra day or two, you would probably be shocked at how many different companies claim to have proprietary read/write/edit software...a LOT of it is actually AlienTech in a different wrapper. I could have bought straight through my contact with AlienTech but since I also have a Jeep CRD I figured I might as well start building a relationship with Green Diesel as they are the KJ Jeep people to know and that car isn't staying stock after timing belt job is finished. Heck, they even rent you the special tools needed for the KJ tranny flashes, timing belt changes and other Jeep jobs, since I have ZERO faith in my local dealer when it come to the VM Motori CRD motor, a relationship of mutual benefit is desirable.

Eventually I would like program out the majority of the SBC system in the Benz if I decide to keep it and convert brakes to a conventional system. I've already had one scary SBC failure and am less than confident in the system. Extended SBC warranty runs out October of next year so I'll decide eventually.

 

Bricked ECU's are even easier to fix with dealers/OEM diagnostic software/hardware.

 

Not mine, not then. Had to get a new one entirely. Mind you that was 4 or more years ago...

 

Yeah, I was going to point that out...but it seemed like rubbing salt in the wound. For Aprilia motorcycles like the RSV4r/Factory I have a diag tool for un bricking since it happens often enough even with stock/mag-marelli updates to street or race mapping. It takes a while because tool is slow as frozen honey but it's not like you have to stand over it waiting for the pot to boil. It happens several times a month but we reflash around a hundred ecu's per month so on average it's not that bad.

 

I had a 2005 Liberty CRD for about a year. I don't know what was wrong with that thing, but I got it new, broke it in to about 15,000 miles, and still never got better than 15 mpg city and maybe 20 mpg highway at best. I knew guys with Hemi-powered cars getting the same or better mileage than that. I was not impressed.

 

I bought mine at 105k miles hoping timing service was already done for a very reasonable price, $9k OTD. Just got confirmation from jeep yesterday that it was never done, it's at 114k now so getting done as soon as the Ferrari 308/Honda Prelude H22 motor swap is off my car lift. Mine is an 06'. 18-22 mpg city, 25-27 mpg highway.

When timing belt is changed I'm killing egr, flashing motor and tranny, dump piping to eliminate cat and calling it a day. Should get 22-25 mpg city and 27-32 mpg highway afterwards. MUCH wasted boost in that motor and tranny logic isn't.

 

Btw, those numbers from your jeep are indeed horrible! My buddy has an 05' VW V10 TDI Toureg...while thirsty it does better than that...and makes 750 ft/lbs torque too!

 

Micah I'm really curious to hear what your e320 cdi sounds like!

I have an 05 e320 cdi with an Upsolute tune, egr delete, cat delete and an electric exhaust cutout placed where the end of the transmission is.

With the cutout open the exhaust noise is pretty loud under load but cruising and idling is not too bad. But the sound the turbo makes is really nice especially when you let off the pedal. With the cutout closed its just like stock and goes through the stock mufflers but the turbo is still a littler louder because there is no cat after it.

 

Ok, next time I have the car clean I can do a decent video. Spent hours editing a pretty lame one today for the delivery of the new EBR brand bikes to our shop. Using my Canon 6D without even an external mic I was shocked at how good the audio quality was. I thought about doing variable exhaust valves since I have a ton of them (possibly literally) as motorcycle take off parts but decided in the end just go straight. I'm the only one in the family who drives this car so a little obnoxious is pretty much my style.

Search username micahshoemaker on YouTube for my V12 BMW storm chaser car...it's not stock either and sounds very vintage Ferrari now. Lots of different bikes on dyno, land speed bikes on track, gear head ****. I do a lot of photography but still learning modern video, last time I did video was Pikes Peak Hillclimb race in 04' or 05' for OLN, didn't have to edit, really appreciate what goes into it after doing my own for a while.

I love the sound of my W211 but it's not for everyone for sure, love it or hate it, sort of thing. I really need to finish my open intake for max turbo noise before I get to excited about putting together a nice video...maybe I will consider it "finished" then...probably not though.