Replacing a battery
Do I need to supply a 12v charge across the + and - jumper posts to keep my settings after removing the battery?
If I do that the battery cables will then be charged and I risk shorting the electrical system during installation. Is that correct? How do you prevent that?
Any recommendations on a good battery. Mine is 800 CCA.




Testing batteries is a whole science.
Beside new-technology gizmos you can do load test.
The easiest is display car voltage without starting the engine, then turn all the headlights and blower on. Voltage drop will give you INDICATION about battery condition.
Other test would be - when at home - start/stop the engine several times in the row.
If the battery let you crank the engine for couple of minutes -it should last for a while.
Recharge the battery after the test.
I think I'll have it load tested to determine the percentage of battery life remaining.
I'd rather replace it on my terms than wait for a cold, rainy night on the road somewhere. Just want to be a little more proactive.
Yours may be only at half life.
I just wanted to know how to avoid losing my settings. I don't know if those cig lighter 12v battery savers work or not. I guess it depends if the cig lighter circuit is live with the ignition switch off. I'd have to check.
Batteriesplus.com shows your battery (850CCA Duracell) for about $220. Easy job to change, and as far as "settings" goes it'll take about 5 minutes to restore what was there prior to swapping it out.
https://www.batteriesplus.com/batter...iesel_optional
They'll even give you 10% off if you buy it online and pick it up in the store.
Not affiliated with B+ but I have used their batteries in my trucks, cars, and motorcycles with happy endings. Got 'em in my Benz and Ducati right now.
Edit: If your ciggy lighter is fused like my '05, there's a 2 position fuse that energizes it. In one position, it is hot all the time. In the other position, it is hot only when the car is on. Your owner's manual will tell you where the fuse is, and looking at the fuse will show you if there is an A/B position.
Last edited by rapidoxidation; Apr 10, 2017 at 11:38 PM.
Regarding settings, my main concern was losing the electrical connection during the battery install process and having the car go into limp home mode or something stupid like that.
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Your model is W212 body, so go to section to check what needs to be reset.
Most likely steering sensor and windows.
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My battery tested 9.6v at cranking with 400A load so it's at the bottom end of acceptable. The day it was tested was cold and rainy but the cranking test didn't account for temperature.
I'm OK for the time being but will replace the battery in the next month. I can keep an eye on it with my multimeter by using the min/max function. Don't need to put another load on the battery at this point. Can't complain about it lasting five years.




Newer cars have command center that is hard-coded to the car by SD and you don't loose the code.
How did you measure 400 amp?

Free installation and they use a settings saver via the cigarette lighter.
Couldn't be easier.
Good luck


