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I've got a thread on this already in the X164 forum, but since that thread was really more about an exhaust leak and I think this is a second, different problem, I thought making it a stand-alone question might be better.
Long backstory short: I was towing, everything was fine, all of a sudden I had no power - like a block was under the throttle pedal. After a restart, the check engine light came on and I struggled to get it to 60mph on the interstate. I assume that it was in limp mode there.
I cleared the codes and pulled the plug off the swirl motor, putting a 10k resistor between the two middle contacts in the harness. The car would run okay, however it would still light up the MIL with a P2006 and/or a P2007. Thinking that maybe it was the resistance that was off, I ordered the 4.7k Ohm resistor and put that in this morning. Same problem - it runs fine, but after a couple shutdown/startup cycles, the code reappears and the MIL comes back on. Based on the fact that it will rev high and generate 21+ psi of boost, I'm assuming that it is not going in to limp mode now.
I've read about a whole bunch of Jeep CRD and Sprinter guys just bypassing that swirl motor entirely by use of the 4.7k Ohm resistor on their OM642 motors. Is the computer doing something different here that would cause that to not work? Is there a sensor that identifies the position of the vanes in the intake manifolds? Am I stuck just having to pull that stupid motor and put a new one in there?
To answer my own question:. Unlike many of the other implementations of the OM642, the X164 does a little trust but verify action with the swirl motor. There are two sensors near the fuel filter for each manifold for the ECU to detect the position of each set of flaps. So the resistor trick makes the ECU think the motor is functional, but the flaps aren't.
The good news/bad news is that with the resistor, I still have the MIL but for some reason the ECU only limps when the motor itself is reporting a failure. I tried it a few different ways:
Failed motor plugged in: Limp plus MIL
Motor unplugged: Limp plus MIL
4.7k resistor: MIL but normal drivability
I'm going to have to replace the swirl motor and the WIS procedure looks like the only way. I found some how-to's for sneaking it out, but on the X164, the wire bundle is just too tight under the turbo outlet and can't be moved enough. So step one will be to remove the turbo, then I can get to the swirl motor. The good news is that it should mean that I put new gaskets on the turbo and fix my exhaust leak.
Hi WAE, found your post very informative and useful.
My GL jumped into limp mode after replacing the fuel filter.
The P2006 is showing up.
By reading your post I suspect that i might damaged one of the flap position sensors.
Do you know if there any way to check the sensor?
Second question, which bank is #1? Passenger side manifold?
Thank you
I'm glad that my experiences could be of some help!
First of all, bank one will be the passenger side of the car. Each of the intake manifold Runners has one sensor located under the fuel rail. The connector for Bank One sensor is almost directly above the fuel filter. The sensor itself is bolted to the intake manifold and then the wire runs back along the fuel rail comes up and then runs forward and into its connector which is on a bracket right above the fuel filter. Check to make sure that that connector got plugged back in and that everything is plugged in very securely.
I have found, however, that that code for the manifold Runners being stuck closed does not seem to slip the car into limp mode. If the motor isn't working properly or at least if he ECU thinks the motor isn't working properly then it goes into limp mode. It could be, however, that if it's only seeing one sensor reading incorrectly it's assuming there's something wrong with the motor and that's putting the whole thing into limp mode.
I would double check that connector including disconnecting and reconnecting it just to be sure. Then with the engine not running I would clear the code then power the whole thing down start it back up and see if the code comes back.
Thank you for a quick reply.
Double checked all connections, all seems to be ok.
Unplugged and plugged back the sensor, clear alarms as you suggested.
Originally i had some oil leak via gasket connected to a plastic intake. The oil was dripping on the swirl motor plug. I cleaned the oil with brakeclean and installed two new gaskets.
Just wandering if it possible that brakeclean mixed up with some oil created/changed resistance between middle pins of the plug?
Cleared the alarm.
The alarm came back after 1min of drive.
Not sure if it is a Limp mode.
Car drives but noisy, feels like i'm driving on lower gear.
Feels like i'm using engine brakes.
What would be a proper procedure to check swirl motor or intake manifold flaps?
Thank you.
That sounds like limp mode to me. If you put the accelerator all the way to the floor and it doesn't rev past about 2,500 or 3,000 rpm no matter how long you floor it, that's limp mode.
STAR can do a directed actuation of the swirl motor so that you can watch the flaps to see if they're moving, but I don't know of a way to do that without it. It's possible that the linkage has broken for one side so the ECU sees one side working and the other not so it's going to limp. That's educated guessing on my part. You could try unplugging both sensors, clearing the codes, and then seeing what happens. The more I think about it, though, I'm guessing that it will detect that resistance is 100% on the sensors and will go back to limp. The solution is probably to replace the linkages in the intakes or to have the ECU tuned to take out the swirl motor functions. It could be the motor - I think BraKleen is conductive and I know that the oil dripping in to the motor is a cause of lots of failures. Getting to that requires pulling the turbo off and some of those bolts can't be re-used.
What about this: What if you unbolted both sensors and taped them to a piece of metal? That should make the sensors think that flaps are always closed which would cause a MIL but should prevent limp mode.
Feels like it's time to put my money into the Star.
Almost bought one a year ago when I was dealing with my first sprinter.
(Needed an adaptation of a map sensor).
Thank you for the direction. Will post an update to share my experience.
I also have a P2007 code but the truck is not in limp mode. Emissions was just done a few months back so I have 18 months+ to address this issue if it doesnt put me in limp mode.
After reading through Jeep, sprinter forums and UK Chrysler 300C forums. Anything Bluetec cannot be tricked with the 4.7ohm resistor.
My issue is probably oil dripping on my swirl motor frying the electronics out. I did not fully seat and tighten the turbo inlet hose so oil spray was getting out destroying my swirl motor.
If you find your intake manifold linkages worn, there is no need to buy new intake manifolds. This new fix should work. The ebay link to purchase the links are in the video summary for $100 or so..
Just want to share this aluminum runner solution to the group as aftermarket solutions are available for gassers out of Europe. The usual not affiliated yada yada..
I believe this is only for the first gen bluetecs. Apparently later gen bluetec intake runners are a bit different and the seller is working on that as well..
Is it the push rods that fixed your engines?
I just had my 642 engine apart and no problem with rods, but lot of carbon buildup around the flaps at 180k miles.
So did you have your rods broken?
I just wonder if during the rods replacement you just simply broke off some of the carbon, what freed the flaps?
Is it the push rods that fixed your engines?
I just had my 642 engine apart and no problem with rods, but lot of carbon buildup around the flaps at 180k miles.
So did you have your rods broken?
I just wonder if during the rods replacement you just simply broke off some of the carbon, what freed the flaps?
hi buddy, I thing you just didn't pay attention. try to move the rod which connects all 3 flaps, you will see that all flaps will close/open different because of big wear on the plastic rod (specially one which is the "pusher". because of the PLAY it doesn't open/closes fully and the rail has a metal plate which works with a flap sensor. So, if plate will not reach the sensor you will have an alarm. Let me know if you have more questions. Cheers
You guys are not posting your mileage, but assuming that most members have less than 180k than I do, I wonder why some of the problems show?
Other member reported need for new intake at 120k. Mine flaps work fine at 180k, although the picture show that it might not last.
So is it different fuel, sand flying under the hood that wear out rod bearing or poor assembly (doesn't happen often on MB)?
Other member made a video that main problem is crankcase ventilation valve and red seals in front of the turbo.
That all on top of famous oil cooler.
Good engines otherwise
My mileage is at 70K. Truck was used mainly yo ferry my wife and kid around town the past 8 years. Shop tore the motor down to oil cooler seals and decarboned it. I put 300 miles on the GL and same code came back. Not sure how clean and free these intake manifold runner flaps got so back to the shop it goes..
Hi, I have just joined the forum, but I have made a plug and play bypass module that works similar to the 4.7k resistor trick but works for the bluetec and I have tested it for 2 years on 3 bluetecs; a R320, ml320, and on a sprinter with no issues. Basically you disconnect the actuator motor and intake flap sensors and connect my module and the codes are bypassed. Send me a pm if you’re interested in buying one.
Originally Posted by chsu74
My mileage is at 70K. Truck was used mainly yo ferry my wife and kid around town the past 8 years. Shop tore the motor down to oil cooler seals and decarboned it. I put 300 miles on the GL and same code came back. Not sure how clean and free these intake manifold runner flaps got so back to the shop it goes..
Hi, I have just joined the forum, but I have made a plug and play bypass module that works similar to the 4.7k resistor trick but works for the bluetec and I have tested it for 2 years on 3 bluetecs; a R320, ml320, and on a sprinter with no issues. Basically you disconnect the actuator motor and intake flap sensors and connect my module and the codes are bypassed. Send me a pm if you’re interested in buying one.
I really need a solution to not have to take my intake off again to fix this with new runners, but $500 is steep!
Last edited by S-Vibes; Dec 30, 2019 at 01:52 AM.
Reason: Need to correct my misunderstanding
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