Listen I'm going to explain this the best that I can and then you can carry on ranting and whining as much as you like and defending your honor.

I was looking at buying a newer Mercedes or BMW 7, so I called an independent mechanic that I've known for years that works on Mercedes and a bunch of different European vehicles. FOR LIKE 30 PLUS YEARS.

Here is how the conversation went. Try to stay with me here.

ME: " hey (insert name) , how you been? I'm looking at a 2015 7 series and a Cls550 anything I should know before I choose?
REPUTABLE INDEPENDENT MERCEDES MECHANIC : " I'd advise you to stay away from a 7 series out of warranty, and stay away from anything Blutec"
ME: " Cool, thanks buddy. Ttys when I come in to get my exhaust done."
R. I. M. M. "Np ttys"


Now write a book in response. I'm sure everyone is hanging on your extreme wisdom, lol.

Cool story bro, 1 person out of Billions and no facts to back it up except that "He works on McLarens." Plenty of facts to back up the quality of the OM642 from Europe to the US and you dont own an OM642 or a Mercedes diesel. I believe the youth of today would refer to you as troll. Enjoy your Range and CL. I know this is a long read for you, sorry.

Thanks I enjoy them both

I have a stretched timing chain in the midwest. I was told that the stretching is much more common in areas where the fuel has a high composition of biodiesel. In Illinois, where I live and where the car has spent most of its life, has up to 20% biodiesel. Based upon what my service consultant has told me if you have a vehicle driven in a place with pure diesel, the car should be fine.

I think it might be the diesel composition. I have no idea.

I just read a comment by Isawelvis where he has a good point. Many of the MB's on the road are leases. Someone with a leased car isn't looking towards long-term reliability. He tosses the keys back to the dealer after 2-3 years and gets into a new replacement. Between that, MB with their ridiculous oil-change intervals and useless, EPA-mandated oil, not to mention some scenarios including stop'n go traffic in especially warm areas of the country.....how can a Bluetec have a fighting chance?

Actually, warmer climates are thought to be easier on BlueTECs.

Not according to what I've gleaned over the last year. Excessive heat is allegedly the reason for oil-cooler seal failure as well as liquid-filled engine mounts actually melting.
Important to point out that I'm referring to stop and go traffic in warm climates. Highway running doesn't seem to be blamed as an issue. As well, high engine temps cause the oil to boil off, which in turn is alleged to crud up the swirl valves and EGR. Just a mess...

Low zinc/sulphated ash/phosphorous has been blamed for engine & timing chain wear, but necessary to meet EPA standards and to save the DPF. Screw the DPF, I'd rather replace a DPF at 80 miles than a gelled engine at 100k miles.

Again, my opinion based on what I've read. For whatever that's worth...

The oil cooler seals were failing universally due to an inadequate plastic material. I'm in northern Illinois, and mine have failed, as have those of forum members as far north as Montreal.

An inadequate material which has been changed....and yet they still fail. You aren't reading what I posted. You could live in Alaska and have issues with the oil seals if you see a lot of stop'n go traffic. That oil cooler is buried under the top of the engine. If the under-hood temps get hot enough to melt engine mounts, don't you think that this excessive heat can cause other issues as well?

I've popped off my engine cover and belly pan for the summer (my gf, the driver, is never stuck in traffic due to her work hours), and I run 20W50 synthetic motorcycle oil, all for the same reasons mentioned by that same Mercedes mechanic who recommends staying away from Bluetecs. Mind you, I've only had the truck (with +/- 13k original miles on her) for less than a year, so I can't vouch for the long-term effects. But I will report back, regardless of if the results are positive or negative.

Take it for what it's worth guys...I've just gotten a Hydrogen Carbon Cleaning from a newer company CarbonTek...been running the 20w-60 Redline for the last 5-6k...

Got an Oil Sample I'm about to send in...I have more 20w-60 w Ceratec in there now...The Carbon cleaning got rid of my EGR Performance P4140 Code. It honestly runs a ton better...

The 20W-60 helped it run smoother also, but the Ceratec has really done alot to quite the engine down after like 500miles or so.

Gonna Test the Archoil Stuff next 5000miles....gonna do the Archoil Fuel Treatment next week probably tho, the Liquidmoly Fuel Treatment was ineffective imho.

Anyone in South Florida, Definitely look into getting the Carbon Cleaning done...Richard at CarbonTek was a good dude.

I'm going to update the Tensioner to the newer PN next...already have it...still have alittle slap at startup but it's MUCCCHHH better now with the better oil\ceratec and Carbon Cleaning.

People used to ask me what was wrong with my car all the time...kinda embarrassing...its noticeable how much better it is now.

Hi everyone i got problem
my rear parking camera not working it's showing like that yesterday i will bought new rear camera and already changed but got still same problem
anyone knowwhere the fuse of rear camera

The choice of synthetic motorcycle oil up here in Mtl is dismal. I actually had to drive to Plattsburgh NY last winter to find any, and it was at a Walmart. But I'm aiming for Amsoil Dominator 20W50 synthetic oil....if I can find it. Designed specifically for diesels, it has a very low NOACK of 3.7%. This is the rating that measures the oil boiling point.

The best part? This oil is rated M2C171-F1, which is the oil recommended by Ford for their diesels. Ford is the one manufacturer who flipped the bird at the EPA when it advised it's diesel owners to drop the CK4-rated oil because it was garbage and causing accelerated wear etc in their engines.

Interesting point, FWIW. I run Liqui Moly engine flush thru the engine 10 minutes before an oil change. This stuff is so potent, the oil varnish in the aluminum casting in the valve cover under the oil cap turns to bright aluminum the second this stuff hits it. Problem is, there's so much stuff cleaned off the inside of the engine that the subsequent fresh oil is black within 10 seconds. So my new protocol is;

- Run engine flush 10 minutes prior to oil change
- Drain oil
- Fill with the cheapest $8/gallon diesel oil available
- Run the engine for a minute or two
- Drain oil and replace oil filter
- Fill crankcase with Amsoil 20W50

Haven't done this yet, but the truck is up for an oil change in about 1k miles. Will report back then

The light-brown "varnish" on engine internal surfaces is perfectly normal stuff.
It is like blue/black marks on torch tip. You don't dump torch into acid after each use to bring the shiny metal?

Of course not. I was merely making a point about how potent the cleaner is. I've never ever poured an engine flush into a valve cover and seen the metal go white within milliseconds.
As well, this was the first time that an oil change resulted in the new oil being just as black as the old oil.

I have used the LiquiMoly Flush on the last 2 changes...i got like every drop of oil outta the pan with suction and drain...still turned the oil black immediately.

I think the only way to get rid of it completely...would be to do a flush, run with cheap oil for a few minute with another bottle of flush...then add a Bypass Oil Filter system.

Add the Good Oil and Go...The Bypass should keep the soot levels in check. IMHO the added complexity of a Bypass plus the added cost isn't worth it if you follow a 5k Oil Change.

The Good Oil (I'm using Redline 20w-60) will hold the soot in suspension better.

I'll probably be trying to a Redline Euro 5w-40 with Archoil 6100 next change and do an oil comparison between straight 20w-60, 20w-60 with Ceratec, and 5w-40 with Archoil.

Redline is the only Oil i'm going to run in this from now on...

I'll be switching all the Diff\Trans Fluids with Redline ATF, also.

I'll make a big thread with all my findings, but in meantime I'll update here.

No way I'm using flush again on the cheapo oil. I just want to rinse the inside of the block off properly before putting in my $18/quart liquid gold.

Post your results back, I'll post mine. Due for the next oil change in ....1300 kms or 800 miles

Sorry but what results you two are talking about?
In my understanding you need to run different oils and after each run do oils analysis in a lab.

Are you going to send your oil for analysis?

I did mine a few times, because silicon value went high after on air, turbo seals were replaced.
Also I had trace of zinc but it back to normal with frequent oil changes. Every 3-3.5K miles.
Im using MB Mobil 1 oil.

I have been just flushing before the oil change...I'm not really sweating the soot in the oil, because I'm changing at 5k. It's kinda crazy that MB recommends once a Year service interval.

I' would only do that extra flsuh if I was switching to bypass, which I don't plan on. Maybe if I had a sprinter, I would...

if you hear a rattle at cold startup your timing chain may be too stretched. I just had to replace mine at 100k

There's also a recall on that same rattle, caused by oil pressure bleeding off from the hydraulic chain tensioner