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I don't think tropical climate calls for heavy oil.
For last few days I drive my E320 Bluetec in 115F temperatures.
Heavy city traffic, AC at full blast, left idling with AC when going inside the shops and engine temperature never went above 87C.
Now living in California, Northern California has areas of overnight freezing. I heard few time that guys using 20-50 oils had broken crankshaft on morning starts.
Than years ago you could buy electric oil pump, who would start with open door and build engine oil pressure before you turn ignition key.
Such pump was heavy advertised for classic cars, but I don't see them anymore.
Means that had to be snake oil.
Interesting side note: I owned a then-new 1984 Dodge minivan with a Mitsubishi 2.6 litre. I'd run 20W50 every summer and every summer, I'd blow the oil sender. By the end of the 2nd summer, I'd added 2+2 LOL.
Turns out that the 2.6 litre Mitsubishi Silent Shaft runs a pretty high oil pressure to begin with, the 20W50 was just too much for the obviously under-engineered oil sender.
Interesting side note: I owned a then-new 1984 Dodge minivan with a Mitsubishi 2.6 litre. I'd run 20W50 every summer and every summer, I'd blow the oil sender. By the end of the 2nd summer, I'd added 2+2 LOL.
Turns out that the 2.6 litre Mitsubishi Silent Shaft runs a pretty high oil pressure to begin with, the 20W50 was just too much for the obviously under-engineered oil sender.
Was 20w-50 a recommended viscosity for that engine? Did you blow oil senders with the correct viscosity? If not, I would say that it wasn't an under engineered part. The additional strain on seals and gaskets is noteworthy with higher viscosity oils though.
Originally Posted by Suprdave
I think my car ran the AC like 360 days last year or something stupid.
If I lived anywhere else, I'd probably run the Redline 5W-40 Euro Formula...I'll be running that next as a direct comparison.
All I'm saying is being scary to try a little heavier oil in a 3000rpm Diesel is kinda silly, and I'm willing to be the Guinea Pig.
Please apply a more scientific method (or heck, the scientific method) to your direct comparison than your 4000 mile evaluation of your current oil posted above. Without that your results aren't worth anything. Sorry if this comes off as too blunt, that's not my intent.
[QUOTE=toddman35;7500627]Was 20w-50 a recommended viscosity for that engine? Did you blow oil senders with the correct viscosity? If not, I would say that it wasn't an under engineered part. The additional strain on seals and gaskets is noteworthy with higher viscosity oils though.QUOTE]
20W50 was definitely not recommended. But honestly, 10-20psi in extra oil pressure should not cause senders to take a dump.
20W50 was definitely not recommended. But honestly, 10-20psi in extra oil pressure should not cause senders to take a dump.
Cost is always a design constraint. Achieving the reliability goals set forth under the expected operating conditions and removing as much cost from something is what millions of Engineers do everyday and honestly, it's part of being a good Engineer. While you may have been willing to pay an extra $5 for an oil pressure sender that could hold up to the pressures produced by the thicker oil, the 99.9% of other people who run the correct weight oil wouldn't have. Add $5 to over-engineer (waste) each of the thousands of components in a vehicle and pretty soon you have a product that isn't economically viable.
Starting to see where I'm coming from on this whole thing and how each component in your engine, from castings, to seals, to rotating assemblies, have been designed and more importantly tested/validated to work together using the manufacturer's recommended fluids?
I’ve used 15w50 since I work in motorcycle business and live in a hot climate, never hurt my OM648 but never really helped. Free oil is free oil and motorcycle oils are not cheap linbricants. At MotoGP COTA rounds I usually get a few free cases of ENI or AGIP or MOTUL 10w40, never had an issue with those either but normal oil changes are Mobil 1 5w40M at 10-15k mile intervals. Oil consumption under 1 liter per 15k miles at 213k miles now. Any oil is better than no oil.
Well, I just purchased a filter adapter for the truck. Just my luck, it's from out west in Canada so no duty fees etc...
Converts the OEM set-up to a spin-on type filter with much greater capacity. If I remember correctly, the recommended filter is a short or long version designed for Caterpillar engines. After that's installed, I imagine it'll be easier to convert to a single or double remote filter set-up. That's if I even have room for either.
Got it back in September, will be installing it tomorrow. You can run a small(er) or larg(er) oil filter with this set-up, which looks to be rather well-made.
The instructions state: "Small filter is a Mann W94025. VW 1.6 diesel. Or, large filter PN5083285AA, filter for Dodge Ram 6.7 Cummins."
I'll be buying both tomorrow and seeing if I can fit the larger filter. Only around 5" clearance between the present oil filter cap and the hood, so...
Last edited by peter2772000; Oct 26, 2018 at 02:38 PM.
Did my oil change today. Put engine flush in, ran at idle for 10 minutes. Drained, refilled with cheapo oil and ran for another 10 minutes. Drained, added Amsoil 10W/30 Signature Series synthetic and did the oil filter mod. Even though I only had room for the "smaller" filter, it's still pretty big.
Dropped the ball on two things;
#1 I forgot to pour some of the old oil into the Blackstone container. Dumba$$
#2 I didn't think to check for clearance between the engine cover and the oil filter. I'm used to not seeing the cover in place, as I remove it in the summer. At the next oil change I'll mod the cover
Last edited by peter2772000; Oct 27, 2018 at 03:11 PM.
I think you are correct considering the overall inside construction of the fram filter. It would be nice to take apart used MB filter and measure the overall filtering surface and then do that with the other option like fram. This ofcouse does not measure down to what size of particles the filter media traps but is a start in overall efficiency comparison.
this option does provide some additional cooling for the oil.
is there any availability of a remote oil filter kit that would allow for a taller filter to be mounted remotely and as such would increase filter capacity not only in amount of filter media but also increased amount of oil for those older om642s and also increase cooling capacity.
I should add that I believe never om642 oil pans have changed and hold few liters of oil more. Are those direct bolt on to the older om642s that have 8.5L capacity?
Last edited by GoodByeHonda; Oct 28, 2018 at 09:58 AM.
8.5l of oil for 3l engine is a lot.
In the past I had 5l GM diesel who took 4.5l of oil. Not that it was good engine, but oil capacity worked.
Oil filter will not add cooling capacity you can measure.
642 is first MB diesel I know that has liquid -cooled oil and I don't think cooling is any concern.
That really looks good. When you change the oil, does this filter "drain" back into the engine or do you have a BIG mess with oil going everywhere?
Mike T.
That really looks good. When you change the oil, does this filter "drain" back into the engine or do you have a BIG mess with oil going everywhere?
Mike T.
x2. mostly concerned about restricting flow. Would you think it has increased or decreased the flow. It has to be different. Would be nice to be able to measure to be sure.
I don't know if it creates a mess or not, I only just performed this mod. I'll post back in 3k miles when she'll be due for her next oil change.
As far as decreased oil flow, I think it'd be the opposite. More filtration area should increase flow, I'd think.
Take a look into your oil filter housing the next time you replace the filter and compare them to the openings in the adapter. Trust me, the supply/return openings are plenty big.
As well, I just remembered that my FJ Cruiser also has an inverted oil filter and it leaks just a bit when removing it. I'm betting that on the MB, the majority of the oil in the filter will drain back down into the engine when the engine is shut off.
In 2010 or so www.FJCruisers.com had a lot of info about oil filtering. Some guys figured to never change their oil after installing. One did a write up using Amsoil.
Just read where you have an FJ. I can't remember but mine was a 2008,9 or 10.
Last edited by happyeds; Nov 14, 2018 at 09:09 AM.
Yeah, I'm a member on that site, but didn't post all that much. I never read the thread on the subject, but planning to never replace their oil after a double-filter install is ridiculous, IMHO.
To date, my 2007 FJ is my first Japanese vehicle and at 125k miles, still my favorite vehicle of all time. At 58 years of age, that's saying a lot... Bought it in 2010 with around 50k miles and it's a salvage title. I have the before/after pics, all OEM parts used for the repair. The truck runs like a top!!!
Yeah, I'm a member on that site, but didn't post all that much. I never read the thread on the subject, but planning to never replace their oil after a double-filter install is ridiculous, IMHO.
To date, my 2007 FJ is my first Japanese vehicle and at 125k miles, still my favorite vehicle of all time. At 58 years of age, that's saying a lot... Bought it in 2010 with around 50k miles and it's a salvage title. I have the before/after pics, all OEM parts used for the repair. The truck runs like a top!!!
Only car in my life I sold for what I paid for it after 3 years and 40,000 miles. The Japs have learned a lot and earn their reputation every day building cars and trucks.
An FYI for anyone who's been under the impression that Fram oil filters are of good quality. Someone on another forum warned me about Fram, I didn't really believe him.
An FYI for anyone who's been under the impression that Fram oil filters are of good quality. Someone on another forum warned me about Fram, I didn't really believe him.
Needless to say, I'll be replacing my oil ahead of schedule and using a Mann filter from now on.
Engine cover trimmed using a 4.5" hole-saw. Black filter definitely looks more at home.
Also cut a 4" x 4" square opening in to the belly pan c/w a triangular section to accommodate the trajectory of the oil when the plug is removed. I HATE removing that belly pan, now I won't have to for the fall/winter/spring months. Sorry, forgot to take a pic.
Looked for damaged filter material etc. Move on folks, nothing to see here....
Got about 2-3 ounces of spillage when I removed the oil filter. The crappy rubber check valve they use is probably to blame. Anxious to see how the Mann filter is built, and whether it'll leak as well.
Also sent out a sample to Blackstone, anxious for the results.
Got it back in September, will be installing it tomorrow. You can run a small(er) or larg(er) oil filter with this set-up, which looks to be rather well-made.
The instructions state: "Small filter is a Mann W94025. VW 1.6 diesel. Or, large filter PN5083285AA, filter for Dodge Ram 6.7 Cummins."
I'll be buying both tomorrow and seeing if I can fit the larger filter. Only around 5" clearance between the present oil filter cap and the hood, so...
Sorry to bump an old thread, but where did you get that filter adapter? Would be interested in something similar if the price is right, want to add a bypass oil filter and with this I could just get the dual filter option from Amsoil.
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