Hi Guys, just wanted to give you an update on Scangauge X-Gauge. Sorry for the long post.

I’ve been using the gauge for couple of days and did 1 highway trip of about 50KM and one inner city trip with lots of slow speed and stop and go.

I have the gauge set to monitor, Regen On/Off status, DPF full %, Temp upstream of DPF and Temp upstream of SCR.

When I started the highway trip, the gauge showed DPF 77% full. At hwy speeds both temps ranged between 600-1000 C. the DPF full % actually went down. The DPF % went as low as 25% and then steadily climbed up again once I was off highway and 60-70 KMPH speed. temp stayed under 650 C or so.

When I started my inner city trip, the gauge showed DPF was about 65% full. It filled up to about 107% when the regen started. The gauge status changed to regen ON and exhaust temp climbed up to almost 1100 C before falling down. The status however stayed ON. Since I was in stop and go inner city road I could not pick up or maintain speed. The temp dropped down as the speed slowed or when I was stopped on red light. At stop lights I pressed the brake and revved up the engine to raise the temp which I think helped with the burning. It took a while for the DPF to go down to 0%. The last 6% I just stopped in the parking lot and revved up the engine while keeping the brakes pressed. I did not put the vehicle in the park. Once the gauge showed DPF 0%, the regen status changed to OFF and I could feel a slight change in engine, like when the fan goes on or off click.
It’s only been a couple of days of using the gauge and 2 decently long test runs but I think the gauge works well to provide regen status. But as others have mentioned the exhaust temp reading are also helpful to know what’s going on. At high speeds and high temp the soot probably burns off under normal running conditions and regen doesn’t happen that often but in city stop and go conditions where the exhaust doesn’t get that hot the regen probably occurs often and this gauge can be of help so the cycle isn’t interrupted. It’s not a cheap gauge but if these 2 tests are any indication, I think it’s money well spent.

hdmax,
Where on the GL350 did you mount the Scangauge and route the cable?
Mike

I had a old phone holder that I modified for the gauge. I have it placed on the vent left of the steering wheel. As the cable connects on the right or behind I had to make a U and route the cable just underneath the vent and along the door supported by a double sided tape. I only had white coloured tape so I used that but I think I will eventually change it to black or transparent sticky tape to make it look better.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...e92e7553b.jpeg

Hdmax,

Sorry to keep asking questions. The Scangauge website provides X-gauge tables for several Mercedes models with diesel engines but does not provide an X-gauge table specific to the GL350. The closest for applicability to the GL350 appears to be the table for “2011+ Mercedes Sprinter 3.0L Diesel.” Is that the table you referenced for codes to program the X-gauges you mentioned in your post #26?

Also, the table for the “2011+ Mercedes Sprinter 3.0L Diesel” provides the coding for three exhaust gas temperatures: upstream of turbocharger, upstream of DPF, and upstream of DOC. There are no codes for temperature upstream of SCR in this table but upstream of the SCR is provided in the table for the “2014 - 2016 Mercedes E250 BlueTEC.” Perhaps this is the table most applicable to the GL350?

Mike

I already check with ScanGauge for DEF level X gauge for OM642 engine and they say the engine ECU is not providing the data to OBD, so can't do,
That was for my Sprinter, but likely applies to the engine in different models as well.

I wanted to share my experience using Scangauge to monitor DPF regeneration cycles on my 2015 GL350. I connected the Scangauge in April 2021 and have since driven 3,700 mostly highway miles and monitored 7 regeneration cycles. The Sgangauge website regrettably does not provide x-gauge instructions specifically applicable for my GL350—I used trial and error using x-gauge instructions provided for various other Mercedes diesel models on their website. With Scangauge, I now have the ability to predict when a regen cycle will occur as the soot load % can be monitored in real-time while driving.

Would you mind to share experience with fellow members?
From SG replies - the MB engines not always supply the data that gauges can read.
OM642 TCU will not show DEF level on Sprinters. Is it showing on your car?
For DPF regeneration you can use at least 3 gauges. When the REG gauge doesn't work well on my Sprinter, I see soot level dropping down from time to time, what tells me regeneration is pending.
Other owners observe exhaust temperatures to indicate pending regeneration.

kajtek1, to answer your questions and for the benefit of others, I will address all of the Scangauge X-gauges I’ve been able to monitor related to DPF regenerations. As I previously mentioned, there is no information specifically for the GL350 on the Scangauge website. I sourced the coding from other vehicles. Many of the X-gauge coding attempts provided no data. Here are the items that worked for my 2015 GL350 with the X-gauge coding. The below provides the original website description and 3-letter label; for label deconfliction and/or consistency, I have used different 3-letter labels in some cases (also provided).

Regeneration Status:
- Regen Status (On/Off) 07E02220A5 C32320000000 2808 000100010000 RGN
- Regen Status (On/Off) 07DF018B 0541268B0000 3F01 000100010000 RGN (I use RGR)
(note: This item is not Regen Status; it is actually ready status, i.e. the engine and exhaust system is warmed up)

Soot Load:
-Diesel Particulate Filter Load (%) 07E0222087 C56206203787 4808 0064001F0000 PFL
-DPF Soot Load (%) 07DF018B 0541068B0000 4008 006400FF0000 STL

Temperatures:
-Exhaust Temp Upstream of DPF(°F) 07E02220C4 C562062037C4 4808 002E0001FE34 DPF (I use EUD)
-EGT Upstream of DOC(°F) 07E02220D7 C562062037D7 3810 00090032FE34 DOC
-EGT Upstream of Turbocharger (°F) 07E0222083 C56206203783 4808 002E0001FE34 TUT (I use EUT)

Regarding soot load, the two parameters behave differently. Both starting from 0% soot load, they appear to consistently and in agreement increase over time and miles to about 50-60 percent. STL will continue to increase over continuing time and miles. PFL will then begin lagging behind and may even fall back 10-15%. By the time STL reaches 100%, PFL has usually been about 65%. Within 1 mile of STL reaching 100%, PFL strangely jumps to 109%, and temperatures begin rising from about 700+-50 to almost 1200F. The regeneration has begun, STL remains 100% during the entire regeneration but PFL begins to decrease in 3-6% increments over the next approximately 10 miles until PFL reaches 0%. At that time, STL changes from 100% to 0% and the temperatures begins returning to the 700F range. This exact scenario has occurred for 6 of 7 regen cycles that consisted of mostly highway driving, 65-70MPH, 80-85F ambient, mostly level or relatively gentle hills.

After 4 of these cycles, I decided I only needed to keep STL and a couple of temperatures monitored and I could glance at other things with the 4th Scangauge slot. Don’t know if there is a relationship, but this was the only cycle that included mostly mountainous driving in North Carolina and Tennessee. Approaching our destination on steep inclines with switchbacks, I happen to notice temperatures climbing. STL was 75%. I asked my wife change the 4th slot back to PFL. I don’t know what value PFL had increased to as it was already decreasing. Similar to above where STL remains constant during regen, STL remained at 75% until PTL reached 0%, then STL switched to 0% and temperatures began returning to normal. This regen cycle, #5 of 7, is out of character with all the others. But I have returned to keeping both STL and PFL and 2 temperatures as my 4 gauges on Scangauge.

Thanks for that great info Mike.
 

Sure appreciate your time and effort to inform us about ScanGuage and our diesels. Great stuff!

One beef I have about ScanGuage is that they are monitoring several items that are already monitored in our clusters like current drive gear and fuel level, for example. That’s of limited use to me. I’d much rather have data like ATF fluid/transmission temp for tranny servicing, among other things. Seems like they’re picking the low hanging fruit in some of these instances instead of adding more actual value to their product by giving us info we can’t readily access elsewhere. Those sensors exist, as we all know from XENTRY.

Although it’s easy to nitpick, ScanGuage is a good tool and worth its price IMO.

Recently I’ve been looking to reduce/consolidate my OBD2 tools with an Apple smart phone enabled scanner. With this I’d like to scan and clear codes as well as monitor live data while just glancing at my phone rather than installing clunky aftermarket gauges and wires. Unfortunately TorquePro is for Android only. Has anyone got any recommendations along these lines? Thanks in advance if so!

The Scangauge II has 17 built-in gauges (may be less for older firmware versions). I agree—several of these are useless to diesel vehicles (i.e., ignition timing, etc); would be nice but doesn’t work on my 2015 GL350 (I get no data/blank field for MAP, manifold absolute boost pressure); is redundant to information already displayed; and, for at least one of the 17, the data is obviously wrong. It would indeed be nice if you could delete these unused or erroneous built-in gauges, but I don’t think that is possible. Hence, if you want to change what is displayed among the items that are available and desired, you may have to cycle through all 17 gauges plus any x-gauges you have added to get to the gauge you want.

I also agree that a transmission temperature gauge is highly desirable. So far, I have not found the x-gauge coding for transmission temperature that works for my GL350. The Scangauge website does provide the x-gauge coding for transmission temperate for several other Mercedes vehicles.

I think Scangauge II is an excellent product. I do wish there was more vehicle specific support for x-gauge coding. Every x-gauge I have gotten to work has been through trial and error using coding from other Mercedes vehicles. It is anomalous to me that there is no standardization of among the Mercedes line of vehicles, much less from make to make. I’m surprised that as many of the built-in gauges work as do.

FYI, I have found other x-gauges that appear to work on my GL350—DPF Delta Pressure, Exhaust Back Pressure, and Boost Pressure (replaces the built-in MAP gauge that doesn’t work on my vehicle). Let me know if you would like me to post.

Regarding TorquePro, I actually bought it and the recommended OBDII dongle and tried on my GL350 before purchasing the Scangauge. There is very little support for Mercedes. I had little success in getting any of the gauges I wanted. I haven’t given up on Torque because of it’s data logging and plotting capability, but it has to capture the data you are interested in.

Big advantage of Scan Gauge is that you can plug it in and forget it.
It will not draw power with ignition on and will restart automatically.
But it is expensive and only 4 display, who are hard to program and hard to scroll.
The $49 Autel dongle gives me dozen parameters on single page and with clear explanation, so I don't have to wonder, but then it require restarting with the engine.

What model Autel is that? and is DPF regen 1 of the dozen parameters it provides?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Autel-HT2...Tool/964022238

I did not check it for DPF manual regeneration as with regural engine monitoring you will never need it.
What makes headlines on Sprinter forum is keeping DEF lever above 50%.
Suppose low level in cold temperatures will exposure DEF heater, who will burn as the result and the heater on Sprinters is integrated part of $2700 reservoir.
Talking about overengineering again.

iOS app for GLK OBD2 to monitor DPF?
 

Sorry for (somewhat) hijacking the topic, but I've been looking for a good OBD2 app for my GLK 320D and I can't find much out there. I am also in need of keeping an eye on the DPF as it gave me the engine light a few times, even put the car in limp mode twice, but just driving at high RPMs for 10-15 minutes cleared the DPF warning and the car returned back to normal each time.

Most device and app descriptions are generic - you have to buy the device and/or app just to find out when testing that it only provides generic OBD2 info, nothing of the kind of specific stuff you are looking for. I bought an Autel before, but had to return it because they didn't have the specific engine module (and other modules) for my car, so it couldn't do much more than a generic Chinese $20 OBD reader. Then I tried a Mercedes specific iCarsoft hardware device, and that gave me a lot more info... but that also didn't have my specific engine module... they "apologized for the inconvenience" and I returned that one as well. That led me to the OBDLink MX+, which apparently can read pretty much anything, but their own app (OBD Fusion) is very limited for my purposes as it doesn't know the specific codes to query for my car either. I confirmed it with their support that their hardware does have the capability of reading pretty much everything from my car, but they had no idea what app can use that hardware capability.

Any ideas? Does Torque Pro read the DPF status/values and other Mercedes OEM-specific stuff?

The Autel I linked above with Mercedes app works really well.
It will not cover everything, but more than scanners 5 times more expensive would.
Beware that OM642 engine is not scanner-friendly and some X-gauge simply will not be supported.

As in the Autel dongle you mentioned won't work with my 2010 GL350 OM642 or it has limited value/available parameters to report? Was going to order and give it a whack, but if you know, you can save me the hassle. Thanks

I had the Autel MaxiAP AP200 and it didn't support the functions I wanted. It was not able to communicate with the following modules in my car (based on what their app was telling me): Motor Electronics, Electronic Power steering, Shift module, Fuel pump left and right, Exhaust system, Catalytic reduction system, Drive electronics.

I asked Autel about I, an this is the reply I got from them:I don't know if the Autel @kajtek1 referenced above has different capabilities - it may do what the AP200 couldn't, or it may not. It could be software (specific model compatibility), not a hardware issue, in which case it could affect all of their dongles.

I used my HT200 on OM651 engine so far. I also bought Sprinter with OM642 engine lately, but will have to try what the scanner will show me.
HT200 and AP200 suppose to be the same scanners -relabeled for Walmart lower price.
Unfortunately with all scanners there is going to be a dilemma what they will cover.
I already own 2 MB-oriented scanners, but when the HT200 come with new features and lower price, I did not think twice about adding it to my collection.
Single dealer avoidance can pay you for 3 scanners, so this is no brainer for me.

In addition to the Autel one mentioned above (which I would probably already have purchased if it didn't require additional subscriptions to scan other makes) I've also been looking at this scanner: https://www.innova.com/collections/a...fixassist-5512 and its little brother, the model 5510.

On that Innova webpage, scroll down to "coverage checker" and enter your VIN, or essential car details if you don't have that handy, and it will tell you exactly what it does and doesn't do for your make, model and year, unlike 98% of other scanner manufacturer's sites, where it's pretty hit and miss about their device's actual coverage.

Autel makes good stuff, but their website is a hot mess when it comes to scanner coverage of your particular vehicle. Remember, CAPABILITY AND COVERAGE ARE TWO DIFFERENT THINGS. It's not uncommon at all for a scanner to have the CAPABILITY to do everything you want, but on OTHER vehicles, rather than on YOUR particular vehicle make or model or year. That's COVERAGE. Super frustrating! Innova seems to get that and has done something about it via their website.

Finally, notice that the higher end Innova scanners are Bluetooth compatible with your smartphone via a free app. This allows your phone to be used under the hood or under the car while your scanner remains plugged in in the cabin (short scanner cords are a common scanner issue) and also allows your phone to be used similar to a Scan Gauge in the cabin. So, Scan Gauge-like capability, plus a high capability MULTI-MAKE scanner with no subscriptions and free firmware updates, all in one. Nice huh?!
PS- It also allows you to get an ASE-certified mechanic's advice thru the smartphone app if you're stumped or need to order parts, or both. That's an extra service and has a separate fee, but it's still a fraction of the typical $100-120/hr ASE rate you'll be charged at the shop for diagnostics/troubleshooting.

This is start/stop technology that some newer MB models have. It's a mode that's selectable in the cabin, but is the default mode at start-up, unfortunately. When you are stopped at a light or in traffic the car turns off to save fuel. When you lift your foot off the brake the engine restarts spontaneously and you're driving. It's pretty seamless but, personally, I don't like it.

It requires a second small auxiliary battery in the trunk that has to be replaced, just like the one under the hood, every 3-5 years or so. The pittance you save in gas is dwarfed by the expense of that aux battery and the complexities that the start/stop hardware and software introduce into your car. There is, for example, an additional piece to remove and re-install under the car when accessing your torque converter as part of the transmission service.

ECO mode was created to allow the car to EPA test at a higher MPG in city driving, however, it actually increases your cost of ownership. But, because it makes the car more attractive to potential buyers, who have no idea how it works and its cost-to-benefit ratio until they have purchased the car, MB has developed it. This is pretty much a German engineering thing, or rather over-engineering thing. There are many examples of this phenomenon in MB (not to mention VW, Audi and BMW) cars and SUVs, not the least of which are the emissions defeat devices that have now cost them billions and a huge PR black eye. Basically, they solve a potential buyer marketing problem with complex engineering, only to create a worse problem for the buyer once they are owners.

The shortened battery live is probably more thanks to "smart charging" who keeps battery at low charge in normal cruising, to give it high charging voltage during braking.
Don't think we can easy calculate how much fuel those ideas can save versus added $10-20 a year cost of frequent battery change.
But where I live, we have 5 miles drive from the freeway with lot of red lights who can last 2 minutes. I got so used to ECO stops (and HOLD) not only saving the fuel, but also making car quiet on those stops, so now when ECO will not stop the engine, I am getting irritated by vibration and my mpg meter dropping down from 35 mpg.

That’s certainly a lot of stop in stop and go situations
 

It’s embarrassing for me to admit this, but I once left my E250 parked at idle in the driveway to run into the house for an item. I was then distracted by a family member’s small crisis and promptly forgot all about the car running outside.

SIX HOURS LATER I went back outside for something else and found the car still at idle. It had consumed about an 1/8 of a tank of gas in that time. Doing the math for my 21.5 gal tank, that’s abut 2.6 gals of gas. At a round figure of $3/gallon fuel cost, this little senior moment cost me about $8.

Soooo, if you’re going to sit stopped in traffic or at red lights for about 15 HOURS EVERY YEAR! then it becomes feasible to run in ECO mode, given the ~$20/year auxiliary battery amortization cost.

Good luck with that! Lol

P.S.- The above amortization figure is based on a non-OEM aux battery. If you use an OEM battery, it’s closer to $30/yr amortization and thus a whopping 22.5 hours stopped in traffic each year to realize any ECO mode cost savings benefit. That’s ridiculous. NOBODY (outside of London or NYC cabbies perhaps) sits stopped in traffic that much. ECO mode is a total bust.

I know the 2.1 diesels just sip the fuel at idle and that is why converting Sprinter, I use the engine as generator. Frankly when I can't find reliable data how much fuel it really takes (scanner show bogus data) I still believe the OM651 engine takes less fuel than average gas generator would for the same load.
But talking about ECO stops, it is more than fuel saving.
Talking about lowering global warming, beside quiet time you are getting while waiting at red light.