2011 BlueTEC Diesel
11-01-2018, 10:51 AM
#26
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
In my case it is Stuttgart who did not supply the part. I would expect MB USA provide better assistance, but the parts are manufactured in Germany.
Funny I read on European forums that OM651 engines are on the roads for more than a decade, yet for first year in USA (2014) they fit DPF who become obsolete part.
Funny I read on European forums that OM651 engines are on the roads for more than a decade, yet for first year in USA (2014) they fit DPF who become obsolete part.
11-01-2018, 10:04 PM
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
There are DPFs available at U.S. dealers. Same-day delivery. $4050-4500 in my area.
11-02-2018, 12:18 AM
#28
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Not for my car.
Local dealers could not get it at all.
It was Husker - dealer from Nebraska who took the order and having good communication I am pretty confident they did everything they could in 5 months.
The part never left Stuttgart- end of the story
Local dealers could not get it at all.
It was Husker - dealer from Nebraska who took the order and having good communication I am pretty confident they did everything they could in 5 months.
The part never left Stuttgart- end of the story
11-23-2018, 01:53 PM
#29
Olá!
I have a 2011 R350 BlueTEC. I live in Illinois, but it has always been filled with B5 or less diesel from Sam's Club. I have no idea why, but the wholesale warehouses and a couple of non-franchise gas stations are the only ones that seem to carry B5 or less in my area. I start with that because I have been told by too many people that my engine problems have been caused by the use of B20 diesel. I have NEVER filled this car up with anything but B5 or less. To get to the main point, here is what I am facing: stretched timing chain, leaky oil cooler seals, a sludged engine, suspension leak, and a presumed AdBlue heater failure.
The timing chain is definitely stretched. I know this because the car has a loud rattle at cold starts. The car also has a ticking sound when idling. It rumbles as it is turned off. I've had a dealer and an indie tell me that this would need to be done.
I have oil all over my garage floor. It drips off the car very slowly. The dealer and the indie agree on this as well.
I have not seen this myself. I was told to look into the intake manifold, but I am not handy and don't know how to do this at all. The dealer never mentioned this, but my indie told me it was sludged.
I've been through Airmatic issues. I got this car with the ADS suspension. I have not looked into pricing on this particular vehicle yet.
I assume the AdBlue heater has failed because the car seems to guzzle DEF like crazy. I used to be able to get more than 10k miles per tank. I feel like I am filling it up every 3-5k miles now.
I have already had the NOx sensors replaced, as well as the camshaft position sensors, in years past. Using my little AutoLink scanner, I get a host of codes including: P0341 (Camshaft Position Sensor A), P2454 (Diesel Particulate Filter), P244A (Diesel Particulate Filter), P2453 (Diesel Particulate Filter), P2002 (Diesel Particulate Filter), P203D (Reductant Level Sensor), P20BE (Reductant Heater 'B' Control), P20BD (Reductant Heater 'B' Control), and P203D (Reductant Level Sensor).
Everyone—I mean EVERYONE—has told me that I need to get rid of this car. However, I have not been able to find anything that I like as much as this one. Not to mention, I find the idea of purchasing or leasing another $70-80k car after just 7 years and 90k miles unconscionable. All of our other Mercedes-Benzes and BMWs have been solid machines. Yes, they've been expensive to maintain and have had to have some repairs. However, this level of engine work is entirely unexpected.
In the ideal world, I would like to keep this car. I have an emotional attachment to this vehicle. However, the timing chain and tensioner and oil cooler seals come out to about $5000 alone. I estimate that keeping this car for three years will cost me at least $30,500 in depreciation, next round of tires, maintenance, a s**tty VSC, and IL SoS/fuel/etc., without the AdBlue heater and suspension issues (and assuming nothing else goes wrong). If this goes much higher, it will be less expensive for me to lease an $80k LR Discovery, a vehicle that I was unexpectedly impressed with.
What would you do? Where would you start? Do you think I should get a full write up from the dealer to clarify the costs?
-mb-enthusiast aka Yoni94
I have a 2011 R350 BlueTEC. I live in Illinois, but it has always been filled with B5 or less diesel from Sam's Club. I have no idea why, but the wholesale warehouses and a couple of non-franchise gas stations are the only ones that seem to carry B5 or less in my area. I start with that because I have been told by too many people that my engine problems have been caused by the use of B20 diesel. I have NEVER filled this car up with anything but B5 or less. To get to the main point, here is what I am facing: stretched timing chain, leaky oil cooler seals, a sludged engine, suspension leak, and a presumed AdBlue heater failure.
The timing chain is definitely stretched. I know this because the car has a loud rattle at cold starts. The car also has a ticking sound when idling. It rumbles as it is turned off. I've had a dealer and an indie tell me that this would need to be done.
I have oil all over my garage floor. It drips off the car very slowly. The dealer and the indie agree on this as well.
I have not seen this myself. I was told to look into the intake manifold, but I am not handy and don't know how to do this at all. The dealer never mentioned this, but my indie told me it was sludged.
I've been through Airmatic issues. I got this car with the ADS suspension. I have not looked into pricing on this particular vehicle yet.
I assume the AdBlue heater has failed because the car seems to guzzle DEF like crazy. I used to be able to get more than 10k miles per tank. I feel like I am filling it up every 3-5k miles now.
I have already had the NOx sensors replaced, as well as the camshaft position sensors, in years past. Using my little AutoLink scanner, I get a host of codes including: P0341 (Camshaft Position Sensor A), P2454 (Diesel Particulate Filter), P244A (Diesel Particulate Filter), P2453 (Diesel Particulate Filter), P2002 (Diesel Particulate Filter), P203D (Reductant Level Sensor), P20BE (Reductant Heater 'B' Control), P20BD (Reductant Heater 'B' Control), and P203D (Reductant Level Sensor).
Everyone—I mean EVERYONE—has told me that I need to get rid of this car. However, I have not been able to find anything that I like as much as this one. Not to mention, I find the idea of purchasing or leasing another $70-80k car after just 7 years and 90k miles unconscionable. All of our other Mercedes-Benzes and BMWs have been solid machines. Yes, they've been expensive to maintain and have had to have some repairs. However, this level of engine work is entirely unexpected.
In the ideal world, I would like to keep this car. I have an emotional attachment to this vehicle. However, the timing chain and tensioner and oil cooler seals come out to about $5000 alone. I estimate that keeping this car for three years will cost me at least $30,500 in depreciation, next round of tires, maintenance, a s**tty VSC, and IL SoS/fuel/etc., without the AdBlue heater and suspension issues (and assuming nothing else goes wrong). If this goes much higher, it will be less expensive for me to lease an $80k LR Discovery, a vehicle that I was unexpectedly impressed with.
What would you do? Where would you start? Do you think I should get a full write up from the dealer to clarify the costs?
-mb-enthusiast aka Yoni94
been there done that.*
The ratteling noise was a stretched timing chain, despite the dealer wanting to do a compression test thinking the engine is out
I have replaced the timing chain $1500 at the dealer. (I should have done it at home) my driving style in a hilly area, and a lot of stop and go all day driving stretched the chain.*
As for the oil leak, make sure where the leak is coming from before you do anything!*
I have followed the DAS instructions to replace the oil seals, to my relief the V valley was squeaky clean I could eat off of it and to my horror all day work to remove the manifolds was for nothing.
the oil stains were on the turbo pedestal and on the transmission, which points to a leak from the turbo? or the breather hose that connects to the turbo.the passenger front side of the engine is covered in tar like crap the alternator is no longer visible. So I am going to replace all of the charge air pipe gaskets and seals and hope that fixes the issue.*
If you are not handy, find a friend**who is, print the instructions and steps and have him help you fix your car. Do not go to the dealer. This is why forums like this exist. The OM642 is a solid engine, I drive a commercial vehicle all day, 5 days a week. i have deleted the egr, DPF and all of that crap. Not a single issue with the exhaust anymore. If your state doesn’t test diesel emissions DO IT.*
Good luck
11-24-2018, 07:48 AM
#30
Member
hello,*
been there done that.*
The ratteling noise was a stretched timing chain, despite the dealer wanting to do a compression test thinking the engine is out
I have replaced the timing chain $1500 at the dealer. (I should have done it at home) my driving style in a hilly area, and a lot of stop and go all day driving stretched the chain.*
As for the oil leak, make sure where the leak is coming from before you do anything!*
I have followed the DAS instructions to replace the oil seals, to my relief the V valley was squeaky clean I could eat off of it and to my horror all day work to remove the manifolds was for nothing.
the oil stains were on the turbo pedestal and on the transmission, which points to a leak from the turbo? or the breather hose that connects to the turbo.the passenger front side of the engine is covered in tar like crap the alternator is no longer visible. So I am going to replace all of the charge air pipe gaskets and seals and hope that fixes the issue.*
If you are not handy, find a friend**who is, print the instructions and steps and have him help you fix your car. Do not go to the dealer. This is why forums like this exist. The OM642 is a solid engine, I drive a commercial vehicle all day, 5 days a week. i have deleted the egr, DPF and all of that crap. Not a single issue with the exhaust anymore. If your state doesn’t test diesel emissions DO IT.*
Good luck
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