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I tried posting this on the GL x166 forum, but did not get any answers. Another member suggested posting in this section. Sorry for the duplicate post. Hoping someone can chime in here:
Seeing that a used OM642 costs nearly $10k, I'll probably be rebuilding my engine. Has anybody taken on this task? What's involved in it? Will a speedshop/machine shop be able handle the machining if needed. If not, why not? I've worked on American V8 engines, including complete tear down and reassembly--so, I do have a basic understanding of components. What are the hurdles I'm looking at with a modern MB Diesel. Will I need to get things reprogrammed after the rebuild?
I tried posting this on the GL x166 forum, but did not get any answers. Another member suggested posting in this section. Sorry for the duplicate post. Hoping someone can chime in here:
Seeing that a used OM642 costs nearly $10k, I'll probably be rebuilding my engine. Has anybody taken on this task? What's involved in it? Will a speedshop/machine shop be able handle the machining if needed. If not, why not? I've worked on American V8 engines, including complete tear down and reassembly--so, I do have a basic understanding of components. What are the hurdles I'm looking at with a modern MB Diesel. Will I need to get things reprogrammed after the rebuild?
I have not rebuilt a mercedes engine only domestic.
What is wrong with the engine depends on how far you have to take it down, right so what happened to it?
Lack of lubrication likely need new cam shaft, lifters, cam bearings, change out the chain and gears, guides, adjuster. Put in new crank bearings and rod bearings and Rings.
A machine shop wont have any problem with valves or milling the head.
You will need two electronic torque wrenches to cover the range of torques required. Do not use cheap ones expect $200 each.
A ball hone. $60
Cam shaft bearing tool $130
head bolts, don’t reuse
Break in oil you run for 1000 miles
cylinder caliper/micrometer to spec diameters.
Diesel Compression tester
vacuum pump and gauges for the AC
ClicR pliers
hoist? If you have to pull the engine.
WIS and EPC for sure.
Have fun!
If you are in chigago i can recommend a machine shop. Dont use a speed shop, they will just send the heads out and will up charge you.
Problem is that it is making a knocking sound and has a misfire. Dealer said crank is loose and that they found metal particles in the oil. I removed the oil filter yesterday and found a few shiny metal shavings. I’m not in the Chicago area, but I’m from there and make plenty of visits, which machine shop are you recommending?
Strange thing ive noticed is that people I’ve talked to all recommend finding a low mileage used engine and throwing it in. No one has recommended rebuilding the existing one or picking up a remunfactured long block. A used one is about $9-$10k. A reman with warranty is in the $7k-9k range.
I spoke with a local machine shop owner, and he seemed pretty confident that he could machine and reassemble the long block for less than $2k—although he has never done a Mercedes before. All parts needed for the rebuild would be extra. I have no idea what the parts cost will be.
Problem is that it is making a knocking sound and has a misfire. Dealer said crank is loose and that they found metal particles in the oil. I removed the oil filter yesterday and found a few shiny metal shavings. I’m not in the Chicago area, but I’m from there and make plenty of visits, which machine shop are you recommending?
Strange thing ive noticed is that people I’ve talked to all recommend finding a low mileage used engine and throwing it in. No one has recommended rebuilding the existing one or picking up a remunfactured long block. A used one is about $9-$10k. A reman with warranty is in the $7k-9k range.
I spoke with a local machine shop owner, and he seemed pretty confident that he could machine and reassemble the long block for less than $2k—although he has never done a Mercedes before. All parts needed for the rebuild would be extra. I have no idea what the parts cost will be.
you never know what you getting with a used engine, buy it, install it and find out its knocking too with no warranty. So rebuild it.
did you do a compression test yet?
it going to be half the cost or even less to rebuilt it provided the cylinder walls are not deeply damaged or can be resleeved.
you need a compression test first then pull the head, if your local guy pulls engines even better, but most wont work on an engine still in the vehicle, and make you pull it. I have no idea if you can rebuild it still in the vehicle, i think the oil pan will be inexcessible because of the sub frame, but maybe not, you can replace the crank bearings with engine in the vehicle if you can get to all the journals. And if you have a knock you need to get to the crank. $2000 sounds like a affordable deal, if he does engines frequently. Was it low on oil? Crank is loose is funny, how many miles? Dont forget the compression test
I was in same shoes a year ago, when my engine bend connecting road on some sucked water (yes - it rains in Las Vegas to the degree that streets get flooded).
At some point I was trying to part the car, but very clean body brought me $1000 offer. Come' on I can sell navi and dashboard to generate that much .
Long story short- I found rebuild 642 engine in UK for $3000and the seller ship it for less than $300.
Replacing the engine is huge job as with maze of sensors and hard access - you spend time disconnecting it and they trying to remember how to connect it back.
The "rebuild" wasn't the best deal, as it turned out the rebuild were only heads and after installation the engine has some vibrations, but it works.
Bottom line- the job makes sense only if you don't put $$$ value on your time (I just retired) and will not make economical sense.
Bare in mind that not only engine rebuild parts will cost a lot in USA, but you should also take care about turbo, intake flaps, what usually means new manifold, oil cooler and whatever you will find in EGR.
Good luck. I have taken lot of pictures from the engine swapping, so if you need any, let me know.
First thing, what I learned the hard way, disconnecting anything on the engine in the car is hard becouse of small side clearance.
On the other hand, you can just unplug wire harness from ECU, disconnect flex disk, exhaust, hoses and MM and with radiator removed, whole engine comes out without bigger problems.
I even left AC system connected and after unbolting the compressor , the engine went over it.
The first thing to do before deciding to junk or rebuild a diesel engine is to measure the compression in each cylinder. If the compression is uniformly lower than the spec, the piston rings (and cylinders) are probably worn out and need renewing. DIESELS DO NOT LAST FOREVER. Piston rings and cylinder walls do wear. Valves last a very long time but valve guides do wear out too. Crankshafts and camshafts generally do not wear out and standard size bearings fit perfectly usually. Oil pumps need renewing. Injectors need rebuilding. Injection pumps also need renewing. Pistons and piston rings always should be replaced at overhaul. Cylinders can by either rebored and oversized pistons and rings used. of the cylinders can be re-sleeved.
If the engine was damaged by low oil or low oil pressure, overheating, or faulty air cleaner, not changing oil and filters, expect more wear on rotating parts and more machine work.
I was in same shoes a year ago, when my engine bend connecting road on some sucked water (yes - it rains in Las Vegas to the degree that streets get flooded).
At some point I was trying to part the car, but very clean body brought me $1000 offer. Come' on I can sell navi and dashboard to generate that much .
Long story short- I found rebuild 642 engine in UK for $3000and the seller ship it for less than $300.
Replacing the engine is huge job as with maze of sensors and hard access - you spend time disconnecting it and they trying to remember how to connect it back.
The "rebuild" wasn't the best deal, as it turned out the rebuild were only heads and after installation the engine has some vibrations, but it works.
Bottom line- the job makes sense only if you don't put $$$ value on your time (I just retired) and will not make economical sense.
Bare in mind that not only engine rebuild parts will cost a lot in USA, but you should also take care about turbo, intake flaps, what usually means new manifold, oil cooler and whatever you will find in EGR.
Good luck. I have taken lot of pictures from the engine swapping, so if you need any, let me know.
So hello, Im new here and pardon my english.
But thats just the case on what I need info on.
Im at moment in progress of 642 engine swap on my 2008 W219 and may questions are circeling my head. So far i know that injector codes have to be changed in ECU but what more?
I took new engine from 2007 UK/RHD W219, so and now for next step what parts I sould use from my old engine? or will ECU recognizes other electronic parts on engine? allso main fuel pump on engine do have different ending codes and dates on them, will that work? allso I have heard that when change alternator it needs to be reprogramme into ECU?
So one car is FL 2008 and other one 2007 year preFL
So long story short, what should I take from my old engine.. or what would need to be reprogrammed into ECU?
Okey, but what about main high pressure fuel pump on the eninge... should the one engine operate the same after swap? i think if its removed once it will need some extra adjustment ???
And should I use engine wiring from my old engine/car.. or is it all the same.. preFL one has connectors in little bit better shape.
HP pump is mechanical, so ECU won't know if you replaced it or not. Just save original sensors.
Wire harness can be tricky. I know OM642 come in dozens if not hundreds of versions, so easy to cross or overlook something.
10-25-2018 | 10:40 AM
OM642 rebuild
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