2008 E320 immediate loss of power. Fault codes 2513-001 and 3066-008.
08-25-2019, 07:15 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
2008 E320 immediate loss of power. Fault codes 2513-001 and 3066-008.
Started the car up last night leaving a store and noticed the check engine light on. She seemed to drive alright through the parking lot but once I turned onto the road it was apparent something was wrong. Checking under the hood I saw that the breather hose was almost pushed out of the side of the plastic Y intake going to the turbo. (I did replace this gasket as well as the turbo inlet gasket about 6 months ago without issue, I don't know why it would have almost worked its way out).
From initial acceleration the car seemed fine but there is an immediate loss off power at 2000 rpm. Trying to accelerate over 30 mph is nearly impossible on the highway. I limped her home and my OBDII scanner found codes 2513-001 and 3066-008. I cleared them and the check engine light turned off but the loss of power was still present, I started the car up this morning and the check engine light is back on with the same problem. The car did not rev past 2000 rpm while driving. From my research today it seems as the problem could be caused by the (1) turbo actuator, (2) crank case breather valve, or the (3) swirl flap motor.
After removing the intake to the turbo I am afraid the culprit is going to be the swirl flap motor as it is soaked in old oil.
Is there anything I should be considering?
From initial acceleration the car seemed fine but there is an immediate loss off power at 2000 rpm. Trying to accelerate over 30 mph is nearly impossible on the highway. I limped her home and my OBDII scanner found codes 2513-001 and 3066-008. I cleared them and the check engine light turned off but the loss of power was still present, I started the car up this morning and the check engine light is back on with the same problem. The car did not rev past 2000 rpm while driving. From my research today it seems as the problem could be caused by the (1) turbo actuator, (2) crank case breather valve, or the (3) swirl flap motor.
After removing the intake to the turbo I am afraid the culprit is going to be the swirl flap motor as it is soaked in old oil.
Is there anything I should be considering?
08-29-2019, 08:11 AM
#2
Senior Member
Started the car up last night leaving a store and noticed the check engine light on. She seemed to drive alright through the parking lot but once I turned onto the road it was apparent something was wrong. Checking under the hood I saw that the breather hose was almost pushed out of the side of the plastic Y intake going to the turbo. (I did replace this gasket as well as the turbo inlet gasket about 6 months ago without issue, I don't know why it would have almost worked its way out).
From initial acceleration the car seemed fine but there is an immediate loss off power at 2000 rpm. Trying to accelerate over 30 mph is nearly impossible on the highway. I limped her home and my OBDII scanner found codes 2513-001 and 3066-008. I cleared them and the check engine light turned off but the loss of power was still present, I started the car up this morning and the check engine light is back on with the same problem. The car did not rev past 2000 rpm while driving. From my research today it seems as the problem could be caused by the (1) turbo actuator, (2) crank case breather valve, or the (3) swirl flap motor.
After removing the intake to the turbo I am afraid the culprit is going to be the swirl flap motor as it is soaked in old oil.
Is there anything I should be considering?
From initial acceleration the car seemed fine but there is an immediate loss off power at 2000 rpm. Trying to accelerate over 30 mph is nearly impossible on the highway. I limped her home and my OBDII scanner found codes 2513-001 and 3066-008. I cleared them and the check engine light turned off but the loss of power was still present, I started the car up this morning and the check engine light is back on with the same problem. The car did not rev past 2000 rpm while driving. From my research today it seems as the problem could be caused by the (1) turbo actuator, (2) crank case breather valve, or the (3) swirl flap motor.
After removing the intake to the turbo I am afraid the culprit is going to be the swirl flap motor as it is soaked in old oil.
Is there anything I should be considering?
I replaced a leaky pressure control valve about three or four months ago and posted a thread about it here:
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...alve-leak.html
It is important to replace the engine air filters in timely manner on these engines. I have switched to 20,000 mile air filter chance based on my experience.
08-29-2019, 08:31 AM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the insight. I ended up doing the 4.7k ohm resister mod on the connector that runs to the swirl motor and the car is now running great. I will be rerouting the crankcase ventilation hose to the exhaust in the near future...I hear you on the air filters. I have been changing them once a year since I have owned the car.
08-29-2019, 08:43 AM
#4
Senior Member
Thanks for the insight. I ended up doing the 4.7k ohm resister mod on the connector that runs to the swirl motor and the car is now running great. I will be rerouting the crankcase ventilation hose to the exhaust in the near future...I hear you on the air filters. I have been changing them once a year since I have owned the car.
Glad to hear you did that, I just remembered reading about it on this forum and was going to suggest it.
I think you still need to figure out what caused the excess oily fumes?
By the way, the new OEM pressure control valves have slightly modified outlet seal as can be seen in the photo (it's non replaceable).
08-29-2019, 01:32 PM
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: V E G A S
Posts: 9,072
Received 1,730 Likes
on
1,380 Posts
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
About air filters.
The miles-based service recommendations originated when air filters cost $5, but that is no longer the case, especially when you have 2 filters and they are bear to replace.
Lot of diesel engines have factory - installed AIR FILTER MIDERS and it is not a big deal to add 1 to our cars.
I drove with 1 and in California clean air I put 100,000 miles and filter was still good.
So don't spend money on the schedule. Install 1 of those gauges and replace the filter whey you actually need it.
Truck models of minders come with switches, so you can wire it to brake fluid sensor and have light coming when filter needs replacement.
ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1311.R2.TR 2.TRC0.A0.H0.Xfilter+minder.TRS0&_nkw=air+filter+m inder&_sacat=0
The miles-based service recommendations originated when air filters cost $5, but that is no longer the case, especially when you have 2 filters and they are bear to replace.
Lot of diesel engines have factory - installed AIR FILTER MIDERS and it is not a big deal to add 1 to our cars.
I drove with 1 and in California clean air I put 100,000 miles and filter was still good.
So don't spend money on the schedule. Install 1 of those gauges and replace the filter whey you actually need it.
Truck models of minders come with switches, so you can wire it to brake fluid sensor and have light coming when filter needs replacement.
ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1311.R2.TR 2.TRC0.A0.H0.Xfilter+minder.TRS0&_nkw=air+filter+m inder&_sacat=0
08-29-2019, 05:11 PM
#6
Senior Member
Thanks for the insight. I ended up doing the 4.7k ohm resister mod on the connector that runs to the swirl motor and the car is now running great. I will be rerouting the crankcase ventilation hose to the exhaust in the near future...I hear you on the air filters. I have been changing them once a year since I have owned the car.
Have you found a good information here or anywhere else on how best to do the crankcase ventilation to the exhaust on these models?
Last edited by arto_wa; 08-31-2019 at 10:50 AM.
