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Hello everyone, im new here so I don’t really know if this is the right place to put this but here I go.
I have a bit of a problem with a Mercedes e220d w213.
What I know about the problem:
Feels like a misfire (pretty much like the car is just running on 3 cylinders)
Only happens on low throttle, If I go full throttle there’s no problem at all. Let go of the throttle and there’s no problem.
Car usually runs great like 60-70% of the time.
Got a check engine light and checked the codes and got “cylinder 4 misfire”, I decided that it was probably a bad injector, got a new one and it didn’t solve the problem.
The problem occurs completely random, hot/cold engine, hot/cold outside, rain/clear weather.
Example:
Out cruising at steady 80km/h (can be any speed) car is running great without problems, suddenly it’s like someone hit a switch and the cars start jumping/going really rough, if I let go of the throttle completely it stops, if I press it full it works fine so the problem is only on low throttle. Then it can go rough like this for as long as it likes and suddenly it finally turns back to normal like nothing ever happened.
Anyone have any idea of what can cause this sort of problem?
The car is a old taxi so it’s a high mileage car at 330.000km.
Did you run smooth running test, or compression test?
That should answer important dilemma.
I heard lot of good things about OM654 engine, but we poor folks in America can't have it, so keep us posted how the engine performs?
Did you run smooth running test, or compression test?
That should answer important dilemma.
I heard lot of good things about OM654 engine, but we poor folks in America can't have it, so keep us posted how the engine performs?
Since the problem is throttle based and not rev based i havent even thought about doing a smooth running test so no, likewise in the regards of a compression failure I feel like if it’s a big issue like that it would misfire(or whatever it is its doing) all the time and not like 30% of the time like it is.
Thanks for the advice tho, I’m going to see if there’s someone willing to do a smooth running test for me.
Anyone know if a egr failure would cause a problem like this? I don’t have any fault codes but I figured if the valve stuck open it would probably feel like this.
What scanner do you have?
Did you code new injector?
The only scanner i have is a simple obd2 scanner, had a friend of mine that pens s shpp code the new injector for me so thats not the problem either :/
Makes me think about intake butterfly valves/linkage, maybe that cylinder's valve might have disconnected or broken linkage.
Not sure if MB continued with swirl valves on that motor..?
Makes me think about intake butterfly valves/linkage, maybe that cylinder's valve might have disconnected or broken linkage.
Not sure if MB continued with swirl valves on that motor..?
Anyone know the easiest way to clean the intake manifold? I guess the best way would be to remove it and then clean but I have not found any tutorials/guides so if anyone has any other ideas of cleaning or can link a guide I would highly appreciate it.
Hi there, sorry for updating old thread, but i've found some info which could helps for future MB owners. Mine 18's E220d 4Matic is with OM 654 diesel motor. As i love to search info and be pro-active for my cars i found that there is a often problem with this engines. Unlike OM651, in OM654 timing chain is solid improved and there is no major problems with that. But one of the major problems is the wearing of rocker arms and specially of the roller in rocker arm on the exhaust side. If you identify the problem early you probably would need to change only the rocker arms, but if ignore the noise and irregular idling it's possibly to change and camshafts and their casing. As i find out, in Germany know about the problem but still no recalls, never the less they have a lot in stock parts for this problem (rocker arms, rollers and camshafts) which tells me that they are aware of this issue.
There is no exact reason for what causing the problem with OM654, but one of possible reasons is that there is not enough oil in upper section in engine. But for me, personally, it's because of the long service interval by book (25 000 km/1 year) which is too high for this small engine. And the other reason is the oil which is used, MB recommend by BeVo 229.52, 229.61 and 229.71. Mostly in dealerships, they put 229.52 SAE 5w30, which is old and not so thin for this car, but it's recommended by Mercedes... On my way, i change oil every 13-15 000 km or 1 year ( For 1 year i usually make 15-17 000 km, so it's on time for both indicators) and i put only SAE 0w30, 229.61 oil.
OM654 still did not make it ot USA although rumors say Sprinters might have it later this year.
OM651 in US Sprinters have 20,000 miles (32,000km) oil change intervals and some of them have over 600,000 miles (1 milion km) on them, although Sprinters have much bigger oil pans.
Thanks for heads up on OM654 issues.
In probably 5 years I will want to update my fleet, so if that engine will make it to USA by then, it will be on top of my list.
The picture is small, so can't see what this is about?
I had 2019 GLE 300d and is using OM654 + MB229.71 engine oil.
I am not sure your problem is cause by DPF regeneration or not.
In my car, it will do DPF regeneration around 350 km.
When system decide to do DPF regeneration, in engine idle mode (D gear + speed 0 + break), the Instantaneous fuel consumption will jump from 1.0~1.5 L/KM to 3.0~3.5 L/KM.
Enter P gear, it will drop to 2.5L/KM.
After around idle 5 minutes, it will drop to 0.9L/KM
And If I drive at low speed in the city, the engine is just like what I switch to sport mode.
The feeling is very different when the DPF is not doing regeneration.
But if the DPF regeneration is at high speed on the high way, the feeling is very small but the total fuel consumption will become very bad around 10KM/L.
Then, every thing will back to normal when system leave DPF regeneration mode.
Maybe you can check the bad feeling is come from DPF regeneration or not.
Oil analysis is great but it still wouldn’t change the outcome.
I think it’s reasonable to change it every 10k, both from convenience and cost point of view. $70/3 months.. Its good practice to remove covers and peek under to see if anything is leaking, etc..
Earlier this year, I removed covers to find an oily mess. Oil filter housing started leaking.
The only downside to changing it “early” is from an environmental perspective.
I guess if the oil analysis shows something scary, you have time to trade the car in.
I respect data and understand the benefits of an oil analysis.
I guess my point is what will you do with the data.
If it shows all values are in order, maintain recommended interval at 10k miles.
If some numbers are OOT, increase change interval or possibly get rid of car if they are catastrophic such as bearing wear etc..
I am at 270k km right now on 2012 e class, OM642 with no oil burning or chain rattle..
If there is a remote chance that more frequent oil changes will continue this “good streak” I don’t mind spending an hour and $70 every 4 months.
If I planned to keep the car a few years and dump it, I would maybe think differently, but the fact that diesels are extinct makes me want to keep it as long as possible.
04-08-2021, 04:44 PM
