Engine shuts down in 4 seconds




I just replaced the Airmatic compressor, but I don't think that is directly related, however maybe something I did brought this on.
The engine stars and idles normally but shuts off in about 4 seconds (Seems that it is exactly the same time each try).
It does not stumble and die lie a fuel pump, air in fuel, or bad fuel issue, and restarts just by cycling the key.
It starts fine, not slow like a bad battery, and I have charged the battery between times working on it, with no difference from freshly charged to after several starts (10+)
When it shuts down I get an ABS error, but it is not storing a code. I think that is an artifact of the shutdown and not a part of the problem. I found no reference to an ABS/ESP issue being related to or causing engine shutdown.
I have checked all the fuses, as my assumption is the ECU or other critical circuit is powered through a different path during start and after start (during normal run).
It seems to be all powered up when cranking and for first few seconds then when iyt switches to normal run, something critical loses power.
Anyone ever have any similar problem??
Does anyone have a good diagram showing electrical power flow to the engine and modules?




Such symptoms are common for lack driver recognition, but those cars are so complex, that you can have 100 different reasons.
Scanner will tell you in few seconds.




Tried both keys, and both keyless and key starting.
Results are exactly the same.
If it was an immobilizer shutdown, isn't there a dash light to indicate that?




Older MB had blinking light on center console, who would change the blinks depends on the status. I could never memorize the changes.
Is your scanner showing you driver authorization page?
I have HT200. who does it for my Sprinter.
Sprinter has different license than MB sedans, so I did not buy it for sedans as I still have iCarsoft MBII who does read those things as well, although in much slower rate.
I also read good reviews about Thinkdiag




Older MB had blinking light on center console, who would change the blinks depends on the status. I could never memorize the changes.
Is your scanner showing you driver authorization page?
I have HT200. who does it for my Sprinter.
Sprinter has different license than MB sedans, so I did not buy it for sedans as I still have iCarsoft MBII who does read those things as well, although in much slower rate.
I also read good reviews about Thinkdiag
if it saves a tow to the dealer, . . .
All the fuses are good, checking out the relays next.
That is about as far as I can go with without more help..
some of the main relays have a Dopod inside to provide an isolated second output.
Maybe one poped?




Well above good scanner price.
Good luck
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To start your selection, some scanners require license purchase and require internet connection, what makes them harder to use. HT200 has very nice troubleshooting page, who will pinpoint the problem in just few seconds.
When I hate iCarsoft for being very slow and hard to navigate, it will work with no additional hassle.
I think at this time Thinkdiag has the best recommendations for serious troubleshooting.
I still recommend ScanGauge for constant monitoring. Even it is just code reader and will not give the description, I does have "force clear" what can succeed where other scanners fail.
Than I restarted my Torque Pro after some time and looks like new upgrades will monitor DPF.
I remember paying 10 bucks for OBD plug and $5 for TorquePro app, so that would be the cheapest start.
Last edited by kajtek1; May 9, 2022 at 01:02 PM.
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I have the Bosch 1350 which, although not a programmer, has never failed to provide reliable reading and resetting of codes on MB, VAG, and other cars.




There is main difference between generic scanners and brand-oriented scanners.
On today's vehicle reading and erasing codes is simply not enough when you have system with 20 different sensors.
HT200 is having troubleshooting pages, who show all sensor for the system and bad values are shown in red. Even 3rd grader can troubleshoot Mercedes with such gizmo.
My software skills are probably on the level of 3-graders today?
My youngest son was starting the computer, finding saved game, opening it to continue and than saving for shut down being 5.
2 years later he learned how to read.
Last edited by kajtek1; May 10, 2022 at 01:37 PM.




There is main difference between generic scanners and brand-oriented scanners.
On today's vehicle reading and erasing codes is simply not enough when you have system with 20 different sensors.
HT200 is having troubleshooting pages, who show all sensor for the system and bad values are shown in red. Even 3rd grader can troubleshoot Mercedes with such gizmo.
My software skills are probably on the level of 3-graders today?
My youngest son was starting the computer, finding saved game, opening it to continue and than saving for shut down being 5.
2 years later he learned how to read.
Will be really happy if it actually let's me fix it.




I have nothing to do all weekend.
It shows up on Monday.
I am traveling the next weekend!
FRACK!




Started the car and it ran fine, did that a few time then started it again and back to the problem.
Seems the circuit 15 relay is somewhere near the problem, BUT The relay reacts fine during relay test, and swapping the relay with another does not change the results at all.




I run the pump and the rest of the airmatic system through the tests and it works just fine.
If I have the ThinkDiag in Airmatic test mode that car runs (But the system is locked out waiting for commands from the Think Diag)
If I make the pump cycle the engine shuts down.
Tomorrow I am going to check voltages to see if the pump is pulling tooo much current, but I doubt it since the fuse has not blown and I have run the pump up to a full minute.
Maybe an internal short between one of the power leads and the other line (sensor or control)




Finally found a thread discussing th8s exact problem.
Seems a bad compressor will occasionally burn a trace in the fuse box (unintentional fuse).
Opened the fuse box, found the trace burnt, soldered in a jumper.
Reinstalled fuse box and all seemed well, till I got about 5 blocks from home.
Car died. Says do not change gear.
Will not restart and locked in Park.
FRACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Guess it is time to have it towed to MB.




F-ing dealer requires replacing the whole prefuse box with new.
Will not use a used prefuse box.
Will not replace the fuse in the prefuse box.
Does not have the prefuse box in stock.
Claims no prefuse boxes are in the US.
Orders one in from Germany.
(Note: all car models using this part came from the US.)
Dealer claims the part has arrived in the US (about3 weeks ago), but for some reason has not made it to the dealership.
So, I got the part number, found a seller on Amazon with Genuine MB parts, and ordered one.
It arrives tomorrow.
Being as they have had the car for 3 months, I wonder how much they are going to whine when I show up with the part?








(Orhers report the same failure)
My repair wa good before I reassemreassembled the fuse box housing.
I am guessing that my added wire got pinched and one of the pins on the board punched through and created the short, because when I removed the board, i could not find the short, but the dealer fond it (put it back together to send to service).
They are replacing the main box to fix the short, and the prebox (because they don't replace the internal fuses).








The issue is the replacement compressor (even though it does not blow the fuse) pulls enough current to burn the fuse box.
Apparently they fried the new box and have to get another, but are not charging as they can "warrantee out" the new/bad fuse box.
My guess is it has a high starting surge, and the fuse has a bit of delay, with the weak link being the fuse box circuit trace.
I have seen this design flaw in other equipment, but it usually the other way were sustained current near to but below the fuse threshold overheats circuit board traces.
What is odd is in service mode the compressor runs fine, but that might feed it off a different circuit path.
Since it is stuck at the dealer, I am screwed in having to get an MB compressor for 33% over retail, and about 100% over a quality aftermarket compressor.
The good news is the car passed the brake booster recall with zero rust.
I'll have to replace the slow leaking rear air spring, as I am NOT paying anther $1000 for a $200 part and an hour.




This way you will not pay local markup, what can be up to 100% in some location.
I had the same lately at Tire Shop, who would charge me 50% more for a tire, when Tire Rack delivered new tire to them in 2 days.




This way you will not pay local markup, what can be up to 100% in some location.
I had the same lately at Tire Shop, who would charge me 50% more for a tire, when Tire Rack delivered new tire to them in 2 days.
I use Tirerack all the time (since before the internet) and use their contracted installers. (That is a bit different)




MB parts come with warranty good at any dealer in the country. That is not quite common.






