OM642 Motor Mounts - x166 GL 350
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2025
Posts: 26
Likes: 7
From: Kentucy, USA
2013 GL 350, 2011 BMW 328i
OM642 Motor Mounts - x166 GL 350
Hey everyone,
I am planning on replacing the motor and trans mounts on my 2013 GL 350 (206K miles on the original mounts, and starting to get some vibration in the cabin at idle). I have read several threads on this forum about the job, and I have a few questions for those of you that have done it.
A few disclaimers: I do not have a lift, I will be using genuine parts, and although I DIY maintenance items and most repairs myself, I am not totally opposed to getting the motor mounts done at the dealer (our local dealer has some great techs).
Question #1: WIS says to access the right (passenger side) motor mount by removing the alternator and accessing it from the front. Has anyone done it this way?
I have seen threads and videos of people who have accessed it from the rear by removing part of the exhaust. On those videos, it still looks like access to the mount from the rear is a massive pain. I'm leaning towards following WIS's instructions, but I'm open to all opinions.
Question #2: WIS mentions an engine mount wrench set (part number: 001 589 01 16 00). Is this tool (or a similar one) required or helpful?
After a 5-minute search, I couldn't find this part. However, I did see a lot of similar "engine mount wrench" tools are out there.
Question #3: I'm thinking I would lift the engine from the oil pan with a block of wood covering the jack point. Any concerns/suggestions with this thinking?
This is how I replaced the motor mounts on my e90.
Any other suggestions/advice?
Thank you all for your help! I greatly enjoy reading this forum.
I am planning on replacing the motor and trans mounts on my 2013 GL 350 (206K miles on the original mounts, and starting to get some vibration in the cabin at idle). I have read several threads on this forum about the job, and I have a few questions for those of you that have done it.
A few disclaimers: I do not have a lift, I will be using genuine parts, and although I DIY maintenance items and most repairs myself, I am not totally opposed to getting the motor mounts done at the dealer (our local dealer has some great techs).
Question #1: WIS says to access the right (passenger side) motor mount by removing the alternator and accessing it from the front. Has anyone done it this way?
I have seen threads and videos of people who have accessed it from the rear by removing part of the exhaust. On those videos, it still looks like access to the mount from the rear is a massive pain. I'm leaning towards following WIS's instructions, but I'm open to all opinions.
Question #2: WIS mentions an engine mount wrench set (part number: 001 589 01 16 00). Is this tool (or a similar one) required or helpful?
After a 5-minute search, I couldn't find this part. However, I did see a lot of similar "engine mount wrench" tools are out there.
Question #3: I'm thinking I would lift the engine from the oil pan with a block of wood covering the jack point. Any concerns/suggestions with this thinking?
This is how I replaced the motor mounts on my e90.
Any other suggestions/advice?
Thank you all for your help! I greatly enjoy reading this forum.
Last edited by mercbusky; Jan 31, 2026 at 02:09 PM.
Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 228
Likes: 41
2005 E320, 2008 E320 Bluetec
Question 1: On my W211 E320 Bluetec, I removed the part of the exhaust that was in the way which gave easy access to the right side engine mount, however I needed to remove that part of the exhaust anyway for other reasons so it was no extra work for me. If you aren't doing this, I'd recommend removing the alternator. It's just as involved as removing the exhaust, but all of the steps are easy enough. There's one part of putting the exhaust back together that's a bit fiddly and hard to get exactly right, and that's reinstalling the upper exhaust clamp.
Question 2: I've got one, but I didn't use it. On your vehicle it may be more useful or not due to how much space there is on the sides of the engines. On the W211, without the air filter boxes installed, there's plenty of room to hit it with a regular socket.
Question 3. That's what I did. Just be sure to leave the transmission mount connected while changing the engine mounts and then change the transmission mount seperately (if you're changing that too).
Question 2: I've got one, but I didn't use it. On your vehicle it may be more useful or not due to how much space there is on the sides of the engines. On the W211, without the air filter boxes installed, there's plenty of room to hit it with a regular socket.
Question 3. That's what I did. Just be sure to leave the transmission mount connected while changing the engine mounts and then change the transmission mount seperately (if you're changing that too).
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2025
Posts: 26
Likes: 7
From: Kentucy, USA
2013 GL 350, 2011 BMW 328i
Question 1: On my W211 E320 Bluetec, I removed the part of the exhaust that was in the way which gave easy access to the right side engine mount, however I needed to remove that part of the exhaust anyway for other reasons so it was no extra work for me. If you aren't doing this, I'd recommend removing the alternator. It's just as involved as removing the exhaust, but all of the steps are easy enough. There's one part of putting the exhaust back together that's a bit fiddly and hard to get exactly right, and that's reinstalling the upper exhaust clamp.
Question 2: I've got one, but I didn't use it. On your vehicle it may be more useful or not due to how much space there is on the sides of the engines. On the W211, without the air filter boxes installed, there's plenty of room to hit it with a regular socket.
Question 3. That's what I did. Just be sure to leave the transmission mount connected while changing the engine mounts and then change the transmission mount seperately (if you're changing that too).
Question 2: I've got one, but I didn't use it. On your vehicle it may be more useful or not due to how much space there is on the sides of the engines. On the W211, without the air filter boxes installed, there's plenty of room to hit it with a regular socket.
Question 3. That's what I did. Just be sure to leave the transmission mount connected while changing the engine mounts and then change the transmission mount seperately (if you're changing that too).
