New E350 Coupe, 3500 Miles - Ignition System Failure
#1
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SL550, E350 Coupe
New E350 Coupe, 3500 Miles - Ignition System Failure
I have a brand new E350 Coupe with about 3500 miles. Monday morning I went to start it and nothing happened. ![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
After Mercedes Roadside came out the guy said that my battery was dead, so he attempted to charge it, this didn't work. Then he tried to jump-start it, again nothing happened. When I put my key in the ignition, the dashboard told me to remove the key, and the MBZ tech said that the car no longer recognized the key as "my" key. So I had it towed to the dealership for further diagnosis. My service adviser just called today and said that the Ignition Timing System has to be replaced.
My question is whether this is a common problem? I searched the forums and didn't see much discussion on this with respect to newer models. Please share your thoughts and experiences. Thanks
![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
After Mercedes Roadside came out the guy said that my battery was dead, so he attempted to charge it, this didn't work. Then he tried to jump-start it, again nothing happened. When I put my key in the ignition, the dashboard told me to remove the key, and the MBZ tech said that the car no longer recognized the key as "my" key. So I had it towed to the dealership for further diagnosis. My service adviser just called today and said that the Ignition Timing System has to be replaced.
My question is whether this is a common problem? I searched the forums and didn't see much discussion on this with respect to newer models. Please share your thoughts and experiences. Thanks
#2
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Welcome to the forum. Very sorry to hear of your difficulty.
In the year and a half I've been active on these forums, yours is the first such report I've read, to the best of my recollection. And I've been keeping up with them nearly every day.
My E350C has had zero defects so far, although I do have low mileage on it. I think most folks will say the same - overall reliability with the C207/A207 has not been an issue. Which is a bit amazing to me, given how complex they are.
Hopefully your dealer will fix it once and your car will be fine thereafter. Thanks for reporting this issue and please let us know the outcome.
In the year and a half I've been active on these forums, yours is the first such report I've read, to the best of my recollection. And I've been keeping up with them nearly every day.
My E350C has had zero defects so far, although I do have low mileage on it. I think most folks will say the same - overall reliability with the C207/A207 has not been an issue. Which is a bit amazing to me, given how complex they are.
Hopefully your dealer will fix it once and your car will be fine thereafter. Thanks for reporting this issue and please let us know the outcome.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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2013 E550C; 2007 Honda CR-V EX-L
Sorry to hear about your issue and thanks for reporting and sharing your issue with us. Like BenzMan has said, I hope that your dealer will be able to dianose of the problem and permanently fix it.
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#4
Uh Oh...I have been hoping that I wouldn't hear about this except from my neighbor up the street. My neighbors purchased one of the first E550 Cabriolets in 2011 and had this problem. After multiple instances of being stranded and having the car towed to the dealer, they negotiated a price to have MBUSA purchase the car back. At the risk of jinxing myself, my 2012 E350 Cabriolet has been totally awesome. All the best with your issue and please keep us posted on what happens since this could be a serious matter.
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Quick Update:
On Thursday my SA said he ordered the ignition system for my car, and that it should be here and installed by Friday. I didn't hear from him on Friday, so I called today (Saturday) and he said the part won't be there until Monday. He said that the parts are "coded to the vin" and that's why its taking so long... I'm not a mechanic, but this smells like BS to me. Has anyone ever heard of parts being coded to vins?
On Thursday my SA said he ordered the ignition system for my car, and that it should be here and installed by Friday. I didn't hear from him on Friday, so I called today (Saturday) and he said the part won't be there until Monday. He said that the parts are "coded to the vin" and that's why its taking so long... I'm not a mechanic, but this smells like BS to me. Has anyone ever heard of parts being coded to vins?
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Update --
So today I (finally) picked up my car from the dealer. It only took them 11 days to order and replace the Electronic Ignition System. All seems well with the car thus far. My only complaint is that when I picked up the car, the documentation listed the tire pressure of the car, and my rear tires were at 36psi. I check my tires regularly with a compressor I keep in the trunk and I know that the tires weren't anywhere near 36psi when it went in. I figured they would've filled the tires to the correct psi (44) but they didn't. Not a big deal, just probably the result of a lazy or negligent tech. Hopefully I won't be back there before Service A is due in 265 days. Thank you to everyone who read and replied this post.
So today I (finally) picked up my car from the dealer. It only took them 11 days to order and replace the Electronic Ignition System. All seems well with the car thus far. My only complaint is that when I picked up the car, the documentation listed the tire pressure of the car, and my rear tires were at 36psi. I check my tires regularly with a compressor I keep in the trunk and I know that the tires weren't anywhere near 36psi when it went in. I figured they would've filled the tires to the correct psi (44) but they didn't. Not a big deal, just probably the result of a lazy or negligent tech. Hopefully I won't be back there before Service A is due in 265 days. Thank you to everyone who read and replied this post.
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#8
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Thanks very much for reporting back. Glad your ordeal is over - hopefully permanently.
".....the correct psi (44)..... "
I don't want to start yet another thread on "correct" tire pressures for Mercedes vehicles - there is more than one going at the moment in various forums.
Suffice to say 36 psi is generally closer to what is actually required for normal passenger and equipment loads, at normal operating speeds, as outlined on the gas cap placard in your car, depending on what OEM tires were shipped with the car. Cold PSI should not be allowed to drop below the gas cap values.
The higher psi values stated on the driver's B pillar placard are for maximum loads at the maximum operating speed for which the vehicle is designed. Cold PSI should not exceed these values.
Unless you prefer the harsher ride and specific handling qualities, setting the PSI anywhere in-between these low and high limits should be OK, depending on the total weight of what you're carrying and your driving speeds.
In fairness, there are as many differing opinions on "correct" PSI as there are forum members, but the above is what Mercedes essentially says in the Owners Manual and it has always worked for me, provided we're talking OEM tires and a non-modded car.
Hope you are getting back to enjoying your new car. That's what it's all about!
".....the correct psi (44)..... "
I don't want to start yet another thread on "correct" tire pressures for Mercedes vehicles - there is more than one going at the moment in various forums.
Suffice to say 36 psi is generally closer to what is actually required for normal passenger and equipment loads, at normal operating speeds, as outlined on the gas cap placard in your car, depending on what OEM tires were shipped with the car. Cold PSI should not be allowed to drop below the gas cap values.
The higher psi values stated on the driver's B pillar placard are for maximum loads at the maximum operating speed for which the vehicle is designed. Cold PSI should not exceed these values.
Unless you prefer the harsher ride and specific handling qualities, setting the PSI anywhere in-between these low and high limits should be OK, depending on the total weight of what you're carrying and your driving speeds.
In fairness, there are as many differing opinions on "correct" PSI as there are forum members, but the above is what Mercedes essentially says in the Owners Manual and it has always worked for me, provided we're talking OEM tires and a non-modded car.
Hope you are getting back to enjoying your new car. That's what it's all about!
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)