604 C63

2013E550C.....

Talk to me about how you are getting this thing to hook up....

I just took advantage of the OE sale, and just installed. Only had about an hour in the car, but it feels like I took a nun and turned her out in the red light district.
Holy god, just completely corrupted the character of this car. The torque is mind boggling, and I came out a series of 3 tuned C63s.
Hooking up is going to be the greatest issue I am sure, so has the voice of experience got any pointers?

This is no longer a "point and shoot" situation. Going to need to modulate lol.

SALES@OETUNING

Thanks for the great feedback!

2013E550C

Hey 604 ..... I can think of three things that I did to improve my 60ft. First you need a summer only tire. My first drive after the tune on the Pirelli all season tires I
new they had to go. Look for a wear rating less than 250. I think my Pilot PS2 are 220. Second I run about 28 lbs in the rear. Do a small burnout and examine the tire
marks see how even they are across the width. Adjust pressure to get an even mark but 28lbs is a good starting place. And last is what you joked about ..... modulation
with gas pedal. When I go to the strip I come off the line at idle. That took quite a few bad runs until I figured it out. I'm not a die hard drag racer,
I go once or or twice a season with a few friends so it takes a long time to figure this out. I hope it helps.

604 C63

Thanks. Some great advice there, especially re the tire pressure. I am on OEM wheels and all seasons, and I know thats a major issue, but dont want to buy summers until I find a new set of rims. I'll use the OEM rims for winter tires then.

Definitely finding that you want to squeeeeeeze the trigger rather than just pulling it lol, works much better to let the power roll on. Otherwise there is so much damn torque that you could just go up in smoke. This car could definitely use an LSD as well, given the power. No LSD, and all seasons, with that kind of power is, well, ridiculous lol. A lot of fun tho.

Chevota

nota_amg: I'd very much like to hear about the TCU tune. I assume it makes it shift normal but I also read the oem programming somehow holds up power? I don't get that part but I'm hoping you can explain.

Meanwhile, I've noticed a decline in power, a pretty big one. Using Torque Pro I did a 0-60 run and it was 5.0sec... I also noticed my intake temp hovers between 105 and 150F (ambient is ~80) so I assumed the intercooler waterpump died. I changed it with the Bosch 010 pump which is supposed to be the one to get, excluding aftermarket. Temps exactly the same..... Yes the pump is running but I can't say if it's actually flowing, but I assume. My elect fan seems like it's turning awfully slow which nets me much higher temps at a stop. Ambient temp went up to 180 once, but on the freeway Amb is pretty much correct but Intake is a good 25-50 above Amb. Any ideas?

That 0-60 run took some time to pull off due to never ending heavy traffic, but I was able to floor it for about two seconds a couple times today with the Realtime Charts plugin for Torque Pro running. HP peaked at 355, Tq peaked at a different time at 392. Boost peaked at 15 but hard to say if it would've gone higher in that short of time, but I can say timing was 3 on down to -10.... So I was wondering what the timing should be when not pulled, and at what intake temp that is. Are there other factors that may be pulling timing? Do they have a knock sensor?

I have a lot of gripes about Torque and Realtime Charts, but also the data Xfer from the stupid OBD2 Bluetooth thingy. Is there a better setup to record data? I have very few opportunities to gas it thanks to consistent traffic, so when I can floor it I want that data. I heard the Freq of the OBD2 thingy is like once a second? But at 250ms setting I get anywhere from a diff # each 250ms to the same # for >3 seconds, or just a zero for several seconds. Whatever it is it's driving me nuts

Thank you guys so much for helping a turbo noob!!!

nota_amg

no worries...

I see about the same AIT temps, the stock (010) pump is just not enough flow for a tuned car, plus they don't turn on till fluid is well over 100F(106-109???). I just purchased the huge AMG pump(A0005002300) from the newer 4.0 cars and it is much larger, haven't had a chance to hook it up yet, but it will flow a lot more water and keep things cooler. Oh, also, I got my tune changed the other day as EC figured out how to have the IC Pump on all the time in the tune now! YAY! I see my temps just above ambient now when cruising, but they do shoot up when I'm on it still... Also, the M278/M157 are not near as bad as the M113K's as far as pulling timing for heat so it's really not that bad anyway...

So, 5.0 0-60 is really slow...stock is 4.3 seconds(sedan)...those power figures seem very low as well, 355/392 to the wheel is what the car should make stock. With a stage 1 tune you should be making 435-450hp about 500tq to the wheels. Hard to say though as we only make 13psi boost stock, and 15psi is almost what I make(I average a little over 16psi)...I would check for a boost leak immediately, if you don't find any, then head to your tuner for a checkup.

For TORQUE, you can change the data acquisition speed in settings, I think mine is set at 1/sec, but I'd have to check and my ELM327 just broke the other day(got a new one on the way, should be here tomorrow).

As for the TCU tune, I think it's amazing. If you want fasted 1/4 mile times, it's very hard to beat. The stock programming limits torque by closing the throttle in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears. the TCU tune modifies those torque values to a higher value so the car accelerates MUCH faster from a dig. It won't effect anything from 4th gear on, so if you're into "high-speed group runs to Mexico", it might not be advantageous.

Good luck! lemme know if you have any more questions

Chevota

Thanks for that TCU info. Before this I has assumed the only limitation was wheel spin that activates the traction control. I'm really surprised the tranny does this, I'd assume the trans is basically stupid and the ECU would handle that since it should know what gear it's in?

I bought it in March and the car was faster than this stock. I installed the OE tune a couple days later and it was pretty amazing! But I only got to enjoy that for a few blasts here and there, like one a week as traffic permits, then it started losing power. How much how fast I can't say. That 0-60 run I did is the one and only I have done since I've owned the car, which I had to do at 5am on the shoulder of the freeway which was the only place I could do it.

So timing going negative under boost is normal or not?

So that pump isn't on all the time??? Wth? I guess I'll have to change that...
Tuner? The only time I've had anyone fix anything on any car ever is alignments and tires. The only time I went to a dealer is once I couldn't figure out a problem, but neither could they so no charge.

Aside from wanting the power, obviously, I have a race planned against an '08 C63 that I must win. I replaced my almost identical looking E350 with this E550 and "failed" to mention it So I want to see his expression after the race, and to get the full effect I must win. It'll probably have be at 3am on a monday but I'll do it.

nota_amg

"Tuner" = whomever you purchased your tune from

although, like I said, if you're making 15lbs, you are definitely tuned...I'd be looking for a boost leak

Chevota

Rather than continue to hijack your thread with my problems, I made a new one: https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...ml#post8135984

I wanted to thank everyone for their input and hopefully I'll be able to post properly, meaning ET & Speed so I can start competing with that incredible 11.82. The way I see pretty much everything in life is; if someone else can do it, so can I. Or at least I'll make a good effort trying

Meanwhile, assuming I fix this frikkin issue, I'm looking at wrapping my hot as F intake tubes to reduce my sky high intake air temp, and maybe install water misters in front of the radiators that kick on at say a certain MAP #. Maybe inject water into the intake as well. One guy on a thread somewhere in my search said a water/meth intake inj "changed his life" which I really like the sound of. No way I'd pay for one of course, so I'd fabricate it. Found a pump for my radiator mister; 120psi for $10, and $10-20 worth of misc parts to do the rest.
Speaking of pumps: You know the intercooler pump that everyone says goes bad? Then Bosch made a better replacement w/ part # ending 010? Well word on the street is its still lacking flow and not meant to run all the time so still not ideal, and it's like $120 if you're lucky. The Johnson M30 pump is supposed to be the hot ticket w/ a good bit more flow and a 100% run time that exceeds the life of the car. That one is also usually more like $200 but I found one at boatid.com https://tinyurl.com/y4uu5udw for $92 delivered. Good price so I thought I'd share. So I'll hook that up to run 100% of the time instead of only when already too hot, which is apparently how the oem unit is.

Siegmann

https://mbworld.org/forums/m275-v12-...n-pumps-5.html

^ Here's some good reading on the subject!

The pump you really want is the Pierburg CWA50 or CWA100. Much higher flow.