spaulhus

My Indy does not do oil changes unless it's part of an A or B service and I have had some bad luck with the "chains" in the past, so I use my Dealer for oil changes. In March of 2021, I had my oil changed at the Dealer for $200, labor and parts roughly $100 each. Today, I was charged (without a heads up) $400!!! Labor was $240?!? and parts were $160. Ironically, the MB oil filter and o-ring prices did not change, still at $36 and $10 respectively. However, the Oil price more than doubled, not surprising, but the labor went up ~$140 in 16 months. When I questioned it, she said "new owners" raised labor rates...

Never again!

Mr. Toad

It's truly absurd what the going rates are for this type of work on Mercedes-Benz vehicles. About 4-5 years ago, I could have the oil changed in my BMW 3-Series Coupe for $89 at the dealer.

spaulhus

Mr Toad - stay away from MB of North Orlando (Sanford). This is the dealership I used today and never again...

Mr. Toad

If that's the Auto Nation dealership, I had a really bad experience with them as well. Before purchasing my current vehicle from the dealer in Tampa, I bought a similar CPO model from the north Orlando dealer. When I got it home, I discovered that it had front end damage and the entire hood had been repainted, which they lied about. I brought it back.

PaulTee

Perhaps the need to ask for a quote first.

But why take it to an MB dealer for just an oil change. No specialist knowledge required so no problem for any mechanic to change the oil.

ygmn

not like they really do anything on an A service that normal oil change places do not do...
Check everything underneath, other fluid levels etc

B service is different in that they add replacing brake fluid and I think cabin filter?

SmokinJoe

Wow, thought my $267.00 quote was bad!
The killer was the vehicle was in for a service bulletin and a savvy dealer would of offered a small discount since it was there.
I'm glad I'm able and enjoy doing these things myself, $70.00 in supply materials, max.

mpalsal

Was it service A or B?
Yes, my dealer also charges a lot for both A and B, but B involves air filter and brake fluid (I think) so it is always more expensive than A.
Now, I try to get my oil change at an independent garage.

WRC-LVR

buy some ramps rated for your Merc weight -$100 buy OEM oil , filters etc or OE equivalent parts from FCP Europarts ( $80 plus shipping for my A207 3.5L V6 ) plus $15 for used oil container. Total cost ~$200

Cost next time FCP Europarts cost only $80 +shipping .

Change interval is 3k, and i use the LiquiMoly certifed to MB spec at the correct weight, I also catch some oil whilst draining and send it to Blackstone labs for full analysis. $35. Does your dealer do this ?

Nope. I prefer to do it right and have knowledge the engine is in great health too.

pca7ggr

Ramps are so yesterday. Get yourself a vacuum oil extractor.

- Pull out the oil dip stick and insert the vacuum hose until you feel it hit the bottom of the oil pan
- Pump up the canister and flip the valve switch
- Watch it suck the oil from the engine to the canister and/or
- Spin off the old oil filter and replace with a new one
- Once all the oil is extracted, replace the dip stick
- Remove the oil fill cap and add the oil your choice
- Replace the oil cap, run the engine, shut off engine and check oil level
- Insert oil pick up tube into appropriate container(s) - have garbage co pick it up or take to your local auto store

Easy peezy.

hyperion667

Yeah, 400 for an oil change is simply absurd!

Chevota

I always do my own oil changes because they want way too much $, it's too much time to have them do it, and I'd prefer to use better oil.
I never tried the vacuum thing but I still want ramps for other things so ramps it is. Ramps were an issue because all the ones I saw for sale are too steep and imo far too sketchy. No way I'm getting under a car with plastic ramps, or thin sheet metal. F that! So I made my own from wood, solid wood. I used 2x12 and I bought three boards. I think the longest is 42"? Then ~8" or so shorter for the next and so on in order to give a gradual enough ramp that my spoiler won't hit. Four layers total so a mere 6" but it's easily enough. I cut the business ends at 45 with the saw, and used a bunch of deck screws to connect each board to the next. I can add more boards on bottom, and/or one on top if I need more height but I don't see a need. I cal also stagger them a bit so the car leans towards the drain plug.
They came in handy when swapping out my intercooler pump, and will again when I do my O2 sensors and misc other crap.

I buy Amsoil Signature Series oil, mail order from the mfg. It's expensive but substantially cheaper than the dealer. I forget exactly but with filter I think it's $120? From the dealer you also don't know what filter you're getting. Then they'll say you also need thousands of $ in work. Pass...

Cha lee

Last time I checked WIS, it called for extraction.
That...and oil filter both from the top makes an oil change about the easiest yet..

SmokinJoe

Many new cars, mine included, have no dipstick!

Jaybird123

Assuming OP is referencing their c207 (E350 cabrio), I strongly agree with top-side extraction methodology! Buy the Mityvac or similar, buy 5qt or 12qt Mobile1 Synthetic at WalMart, order Mahle filters on FCPeuro and never look back. I literally go back in house and work while extractor pulls out old oil.

Trey0702

I received a card from my dealer that has the A service at $199 & the B service at $619. I’m about due for an oil change but I’ll most likely go to the Indy shop I use where it’s $150.

AllPhonesAretap

This guy gets it! I'm putting my vote in for the extractor as well. I got the harbor freight one that extracts and dispenses and it's fine, it's helped do all kinds of fluids, and, it allows for quick and easy clean up!
I change my filter between 5-10,000 miles, but I change the oil whenever I check it and I don't like the way it looks, so honestly about every 2,000 miles given the ease of service. My car has over 100,000 miles now, and ( Inshallah) so far has not burned even a smidge of oil. I've been using Mobil1 0w-40 6qt boxes from costco that I supplement with a 5qt jug. I use 0w because I'm weary of the cold start rattle. Which again, even at current miles, she purs at start up. I'd like to switch to Liqui moly, but it's not readily available and I change my oil every 2 months and ordering that much oil is a lot of drama, although I've been considering using FCP Euro. Side note, I've used Ceratec and the Liqui moly MoS2, I went from 29-31mpg at a 60mph cruise to 36mpg! I see no reason to put 10,000 miles on oil. I had a 2019 accord that I followed the book at about 8,000 miles the oil was as black as a starless, moon less night. Those engines also had known fuel contamination in the CR-V so I figured they're actually going to have the lifetime of an appliance going forward.