E-Class Coupe (C207) & Cabrio (A207) 2010-: E250CDI Coupe, E350 Coupe, E350CDI Coupe, E500 Coupe, E550 Coupe [Coupes & Cabriolets]

Aircap Windscreen Deflector stuck down on 2010 E350 A207

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Old Aug 24, 2022 | 02:26 AM
  #1  
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E350 CGI Cab
Question Aircap Windscreen Deflector stuck down on 2010 E350 A207

Hi all,

I picked up a second-hand A207 and can't get the front Aircap (top of windshield) to do anything. I've seen loads of threads about the deflector getting stuck in the up position, but nothing regarding it being permanently down. The aircap button works, both lights come on and the rear deflector between the seats raises but nothing happens at all with the front one. No noise, no movement.

Has anyone experienced this? Is there a way of manually releasing it to give it a good clean or is it possible that it has been previously disabled by Merc?

TIA
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Old Aug 24, 2022 | 10:51 AM
  #2  
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'71 Pinto
See attachments to check assembly.
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File Type: pdf
install wind deflector.pdf (894.8 KB, 915 views)
File Type: pdf
OCP.pdf (325.7 KB, 377 views)
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Old Mar 24, 2023 | 12:10 PM
  #3  
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From: Columbus Ohio
E 350 Cabriolet 2014 (A207) | C 230 Sport 2006 (W203) ML 350 2015 (W166)
The module has likely gone bad if the button still works and the rear windscreen still goes up and down when the button is pressed. The good news is all you need to do is swap it out and you are good; no reprogramming or any software updates. The bad news is this is an $1800.00 part at least at my local dealer (Columbus Ohio). I just replaced mine and I found a used module on Ebay and it worked perfectly. $250.00 to $300.00 instead of something closer to 3 grand.
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Old May 21, 2023 | 07:48 AM
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2012 E350 Cabriolet now SOLD to my son
I have a similar issue after having all the top cylinders replaced in my A207.

The aircap tries to move up in the center, the left and right sides stay down. After sensing the resistance fom the sides not moving up, the aircap moves back down. After trying once it locks the aircap button out, im assuming to prevent damage, until the ignition is cycled. I'm hoping this is a simple adjustment, or reset. Any advice?
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Old May 23, 2023 | 10:45 AM
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2015 E400
I had the same issue on my '15 E400. Motor was fried. I had the dealer replace, labor wasn't too bad, part price was hard to swallow, but I wanted a new part over a used part. The job can be done DIY, so if you're ok with used, it can be DIY'd. If you don't have a garage, you can still DIY as a shade-tree project, but you're at the mercy of weather conditions. There's a YouTube video showing the process.
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Old Feb 26, 2024 | 07:40 PM
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Model: ML320 Year: 2000; Model: ML350 Year: 2012
Work around is aircap side jammed but middle motors work

Originally Posted by WRC-LVR
I have a similar issue after having all the top cylinders replaced in my A207.

The aircap tries to move up in the center, the left and right sides stay down. After sensing the resistance fom the sides not moving up, the aircap moves back down. After trying once it locks the aircap button out, im assuming to prevent damage, until the ignition is cycled. I'm hoping this is a simple adjustment, or reset. Any advice?
I had the same problem. I pressed the open button and pried each end up with a lever one at a time each time the aircap tried to open. The top part looks like plastic, but is metal so can take the force. Once open hold it firmly in the middle to stop it closing again. The motors are intelligent and stop moving when you hold the aircap open.

Then you'll see that there's a tiny little lock bar on each side that is supposed to release when you rest the open button. I'm assuming the actuators went bad or the software went bad or something, so they stay in the locked position. If you were to cycle the ignition and press the switch the cap closes, but the lock eyelets are now in the way, stopping a water proof seal on each side.

So, cycle and open and hold the aircap again. In the open position you will have to remove the small plastic covers each end (2 torx screws each side). That will reveal the metal 'latches' built into the top. I chose to cut the latches off (you can file them, but that takes a while.) Be careful you don't damage the screen while filing. I thought was safer than trying to cut the two lock bars on the base at each end of the aircap. You will also have to file bigger holes in the small plastic covers to clear the latches.

Reassemble everything and check that the latches no longer heed the full closing of the top at each end. Cycle a few times to make sure.

Finally, once done, you'll have to press the open button as usual to activate the aircap, but it's best to do when stationary as you have to wait for it to fully open and hold it in the open position (middle is best as the motorized latches are each side of the center). The motors know something's in the way and stop moving. That's it! To close it you need to cycle the ignition to reactivate the switch. Not as convenient as opening while driving, but it will save you $3,000 of your hard earned money!
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