Help... Buy or not to buy???
I'm looking for input from some MB owners. I'm currently on the hunt for a used E550 Cabrio. I'm looking at 2011 - 2015. I've done a good bit of research and can't find a lot of major issues with those years. I know they went from a V8 NA to the twin turbo V8 in 2012. I found a really well kept 2014 E550, 1 owner, clean Carfax (attached it so you all can see it), and well equipped with almost everything (only missing the Driver's and Parking assist packages). The catch is it has 112,000 miles on it. The engine purrs and it drives smoothly. Paint and body is great. They are asking $21,500. Surprisingly there are not a lot of there for sale.
I'm going to get a PPI on Monday but still wanted to pick everyone's brains here 😉.
My 3 questions are:
1) Let's address the elephant in the room first... Are 112K miles too many?
2) Anything I should be looking out for specifically?
3) How is the boosted V8 vs the NA V8 in real world. Any oil consumption/burning issues?
Thanks in advance to you all!
Last edited by MB-Newb; May 13, 2023 at 09:48 PM.
Having said that, I still want something with some quality and reliability. I figured this would be the perfect place to get answers to my questions and some honest owner feedback.
I'm looking for input from some MB owners. I'm currently on the hunt for a used E550 Cabrio. I'm looking at 2011 - 2015. I've done a good bit of research and can't find a lot of major issues with those years. I know they went from a V8 NA to the twin turbo V8 in 2012. I found a really well kept 2014 E550, 1 owner, clean Carfax (attached it so you all can see it), and well equipped with almost everything (only missing the Driver's and Parking assist packages). The catch is it has 112,000 miles on it. The engine purrs and it drives smoothly. Paint and body is great. They are asking $21,500. Surprisingly there are not a lot of there for sale.
I'm going to get a PPI on Monday but still wanted to pick everyone's brains here 😉.
My 3 questions are:
1) Let's address the elephant in the room first... Are 112K miles too many?
2) Anything I should be looking out for specifically?
3) How is the boosted V8 vs the NA V8 in real world. Any oil consumption/burning issues?
Thanks in advance to you all!
"Well-kept" and "smooth engine" are no guarantee of a long and happy relationship with this car.
1. Possibly. Pay for a borescope at the dealer or independent shop to check for cylinder scoring. Scoring is in practical terms unrepairable and fatal in mid-late stages. The "repair" is a rebuilt or replacement engine which is $$$.
2. See below:
- cylinder scoring. Symptoms are CEL and oil consumption.
- oil in the engine wiring harness at cam position sensor, cam magnet and ECU connectors
- leaking turbo coolant lines
- valve issues, I think exhaust valve guide. I don't have the details on this but you can read about it on this site.
3. see above
1. Water pump, Thermostat, Serpentine Belt, Engine to Turbos coolant lines, Shut-Off Valve. Water pump, thermostat, and serpentine belt are normal wear and tear items to replace. The M278 engine coolant lines are made of plastic instead of rubber and will become brittle and break. There are three of them in the front of the motor and shut-off valve plastic part that’s part of the coolant system in the back of the motor. They are not expensive parts but labor will be. Expect $2K or so to get the coolant system sorted. Once one plastic part breaks, chances are they all will.
2. Suspension. A car with over 100K will need new control arms, sway bar links, shocks/struts. They sell kits for $400 from AutohausAZ with control arms and sway bar links (6 parts + 4 screws in total) and the 4 shocks/struts if they are electronic controlled by the sport mode button in the vehicle will be around $1.5K. These don’t need a German mechanic but definitely want a shop who is used to doing suspension parts.
3. Brake pads, rotors, and brake sensors (2 needed). These likely may be due for a new ones. Normal brake shop can do just get quality parts. Recommend checking AutohausAZ as well as GermanAutoParts, Pelican Parts, or FCPEuro. I got mine with genuine OEM parts from AutohausAZ for $700.
4. AC System. Likely will need a recharge and for me at least my air blower motor was rubbing too much making a noise so had the blower replaced. Part is $175.
5. Battery. This will likely need replacing if it hasn’t been in a while. $250-300 for a quality OEM battery.
6. Seatbelt Presenter. I learned the hard way the motor doesn’t go out, the control circuit does. It’s a part you just have to order used one on eBay for $40 vs new one for $300+. Not a required part to change but worth it to have it work properly.
7. A transmission fluid and filter change will need to be done at some point. I plan to do that later this season or start of next season. I’ve heard the transmission can give problems but so far no issues on my end. You may also want to do spark plugs and brake fluid but chances are those are in good shape unless you start to notice any abnormal performance issues.
8. M278 Engine. Make sure to watch videos of all the things that go wrong with the elegant but complicated engine. This can include oil leaking from cam shaft magnets or sensors, oil and coolant mixing due to failed gaskets, engine mounts needing replacement, etc. So find a good mechanic and stay vigilant to check engine every six months or so that no abnormal issues even if it’s driving well.
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yup.
edited...maybe the elderly lady down the street didn't comment...because I was perhaps misinformed about her family owning CARFAX. (*** Media/*** Automotive).
Last edited by Snarla; May 14, 2023 at 09:54 AM. Reason: I might be mistaken...
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"Well-kept" and "smooth engine" are no guarantee of a long and happy relationship with this car.
1. Possibly. Pay for a borescope at the dealer or independent shop to check for cylinder scoring. Scoring is in practical terms unrepairable and fatal in mid-late stages. The "repair" is a rebuilt or replacement engine which is $$$.
2. See below:
- cylinder scoring. Symptoms are CEL and oil consumption.
- oil in the engine wiring harness at cam position sensor, cam magnet and ECU connectors
- leaking turbo coolant lines
- valve issues, I think exhaust valve guide. I don't have the details on this but you can read about it on this site.
3. see above
1. Water pump, Thermostat, Serpentine Belt, Engine to Turbos coolant lines, Shut-Off Valve. Water pump, thermostat, and serpentine belt are normal wear and tear items to replace. The M278 engine coolant lines are made of plastic instead of rubber and will become brittle and break. There are three of them in the front of the motor and shut-off valve plastic part that’s part of the coolant system in the back of the motor. They are not expensive parts but labor will be. Expect $2K or so to get the coolant system sorted. Once one plastic part breaks, chances are they all will.
2. Suspension. A car with over 100K will need new control arms, sway bar links, shocks/struts. They sell kits for $400 from AutohausAZ with control arms and sway bar links (6 parts + 4 screws in total) and the 4 shocks/struts if they are electronic controlled by the sport mode button in the vehicle will be around $1.5K. These don’t need a German mechanic but definitely want a shop who is used to doing suspension parts.
3. Brake pads, rotors, and brake sensors (2 needed). These likely may be due for a new ones. Normal brake shop can do just get quality parts. Recommend checking AutohausAZ as well as GermanAutoParts, Pelican Parts, or FCPEuro. I got mine with genuine OEM parts from AutohausAZ for $700.
4. AC System. Likely will need a recharge and for me at least my air blower motor was rubbing too much making a noise so had the blower replaced. Part is $175.
5. Battery. This will likely need replacing if it hasn’t been in a while. $250-300 for a quality OEM battery.
6. Seatbelt Presenter. I learned the hard way the motor doesn’t go out, the control circuit does. It’s a part you just have to order used one on eBay for $40 vs new one for $300+. Not a required part to change but worth it to have it work properly.
7. A transmission fluid and filter change will need to be done at some point. I plan to do that later this season or start of next season. I’ve heard the transmission can give problems but so far no issues on my end. You may also want to do spark plugs and brake fluid but chances are those are in good shape unless you start to notice any abnormal performance issues.
8. M278 Engine. Make sure to watch videos of all the things that go wrong with the elegant but complicated engine. This can include oil leaking from cam shaft magnets or sensors, oil and coolant mixing due to failed gaskets, engine mounts needing replacement, etc. So find a good mechanic and stay vigilant to check engine every six months or so that no abnormal issues even if it’s driving well.
https://youtu.be/wiF-ocGHoRo
Thank you all for the great info. It's important to know what your getting and be able to make an educated decision based on info gathered!
A Lot to look into, read about, and think about.
Thanks again!
I guess this case would be no different. Better be safe than sorry! Especially when you're looking at luxury cars with a much higher dollar price tag FOR EVERYTHING. LoL




Also NEVER run the cabriolet thru the car wash, Mercedes specifically says that can damage the fabric of the top.
AS noted above, search on the M278 engine...lots of threads about issues that can and will come up.
Have you looked on the Market place on MBWorld ? I just sold my A207 E350 cabriolet but there may be others.
Last edited by WRC-LVR; May 15, 2023 at 12:53 PM.
Also NEVER run the cabriolet thru the car wash, Mercedes specifically says that can damage the fabric of the top.
AS noted above, search on the M278 engine...lots of threads about issues that can and will come up.
Have you looked on the Market place on MBWorld ? I just sold my A207 E350 cabriolet but there may be others.
I live in the Boston area and have been lucky enough to have it serviced at one of top independent shops in the country. I've had the conversation about M278 engines and just like doctors tell you not to read about your maladies on the internet, they said the same can be said for the M278. Are there issues? Yes, but in most cases they are not as widespread or horrific as the internet makes them out to be.
Best of luck with your decision, let me know if you want to make an offer on mine. ;-)
I live in the Boston area and have been lucky enough to have it serviced at one of top independent shops in the country. I've had the specific conversation with them about M278 engines and just like doctors tell you not to read about your maladies on the internet, they said the same can be said for the M278. Are there issues? Yes, but in most cases they are not as widespread or horrific as the internet makes them out to be.
Best of luck with your decision, let me know if you want to make an offer on mine. ;-)
I live in the Boston area and have been lucky enough to have it serviced at one of top independent shops in the country. I've had the specific conversation with them about M278 engines and just like doctors tell you not to read about your maladies on the internet, they said the same can be said for the M278. Are there issues? Yes, but in most cases they are not as widespread or horrific as the internet makes them out to be.
Best of luck with your decision, let me know if you want to make an offer on mine. ;-)
"Don't believe everything you read on the internet" reminds me of that commercial on TV a while back with that lady saying I'm going on a date with my French model... and it's some random guy that says bonjour in a very American accent 😂.
Update: So I just checked the OM and MM. The OM says not to use touchless-car washes for paint and plastic issues with chemicals, but no mention about the top...
Last edited by pl626; May 16, 2023 at 11:33 AM. Reason: update




It is preferable to use car washes with
adjustable22 high-pressure precleaning. In
car washes that use high water pressures,
there is a risk that a small amount of water
may leak into the vehicle.
! Cabriolet: do not treat the vehicle with
hot wax under any circumstances.
It is preferable to use car washes with
adjustable22 high-pressure precleaning. In
car washes that use high water pressures,
there is a risk that a small amount of water
may leak into the vehicle.
! Cabriolet: do not treat the vehicle with
hot wax under any circumstances.
However, as I have a Cab, I have to make sure I don't overdo it, so I think once a week is probably the limit.




I'm looking for input from some MB owners. I'm currently on the hunt for a used E550 Cabrio. I'm looking at 2011 - 2015. I've done a good bit of research and can't find a lot of major issues with those years. I know they went from a V8 NA to the twin turbo V8 in 2012. I found a really well kept 2014 E550, 1 owner, clean Carfax (attached it so you all can see it), and well equipped with almost everything (only missing the Driver's and Parking assist packages). The catch is it has 112,000 miles on it. The engine purrs and it drives smoothly. Paint and body is great. They are asking $21,500. Surprisingly there are not a lot of there for sale.
I'm going to get a PPI on Monday but still wanted to pick everyone's brains here 😉.
My 3 questions are:
1) Let's address the elephant in the room first... Are 112K miles too many?
2) Anything I should be looking out for specifically?
3) How is the boosted V8 vs the NA V8 in real world. Any oil consumption/burning issues?
Thanks in advance to you all!




