"Glow Plugs" 1990 Mecedes 300TD
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
1999 Mecedes 300TD
"Glow Plugs" 1990 Mecedes 300TD
I am looking for information as to where I can obtain a repair manual for a 1999 MB 300TD
Last edited by Allenb1; Jul 25, 2009 at 07:35 AM. Reason: Typed the wrong year of vehicle
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
1999 Mecedes 300TD
1999 Mercedes 300 TD
Thanks for the reply. I made a mistake. I was trying to reference my 1999 MB 300TD, and I missed typed the year. I typed 1990 instead of 1999. I've worked on cars, on and off most of my life but, never a Mercedes Benz. I took my car to the repair shop because the "Check Engine light/Glow Plug indicator" came on. According to their diagnosis, I have (2) bad "Glow Plugs". So, I decided to do the job myself.
So, I am looking for anyone who can provide me information as to where I can obtain a Repair Manual for my vehicle. Any information provided will be gratefully appreicated.
Thanks
Allen
So, I am looking for anyone who can provide me information as to where I can obtain a Repair Manual for my vehicle. Any information provided will be gratefully appreicated.
Thanks
Allen
Banned
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 5
From: Federal Heights, CO
1982 300D VNT, 1980 240D 3.0T, 1982 300TD
Try these places: http://www.classictechlit.mbusa.com/MB/ http://www.mercedesmanuals.com/
Ignore "2_pac", he is just a spammer.
Ignore "2_pac", he is just a spammer.
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 835
Likes: 2
From: Bay Area, CA
09' E320
Yours is a W210 BTW.
You need to search this forum and Mercedesshop.com forum (now Peachparts.com) for E300 and/or 606 broken Glow Plugs before proceeding further. They have a habit of snapping off in the head if not careful.......you'll want to soak the bad ones with liberal amounts of penetrating oil for a few days first. Use a torque wrench set to no more than 40-50NM for removal. They WILL snap at 80-90NM almost EVERY time. Pull IM and then run it to operating temp immediately prior to attempting removal. You can clear the code later. If stuck, don't push it. Take your time; keep soaking, reheating to operating temp and maybe using "Freeze" when hot to help break carbon loose. REAM hole before reinstalling.
Some OBDII scanners will provide codes telling you which GP's are at fault. P1_365 is GP #1 or 2, P1_367 ir #3 or 4 and P1_369 #5 orr 6. Or you can use the multi meter.
You need to search this forum and Mercedesshop.com forum (now Peachparts.com) for E300 and/or 606 broken Glow Plugs before proceeding further. They have a habit of snapping off in the head if not careful.......you'll want to soak the bad ones with liberal amounts of penetrating oil for a few days first. Use a torque wrench set to no more than 40-50NM for removal. They WILL snap at 80-90NM almost EVERY time. Pull IM and then run it to operating temp immediately prior to attempting removal. You can clear the code later. If stuck, don't push it. Take your time; keep soaking, reheating to operating temp and maybe using "Freeze" when hot to help break carbon loose. REAM hole before reinstalling.
Some OBDII scanners will provide codes telling you which GP's are at fault. P1_365 is GP #1 or 2, P1_367 ir #3 or 4 and P1_369 #5 orr 6. Or you can use the multi meter.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
1999 Mecedes 300TD
T Allison = Thanks for the information. I not sure which Glow Plug is bad and I don't own a OBDII Scanner so I plan to replace all (6) Glow Plugs. Thanks to previous information provided, I've order the repair manual and the Glow Plugs and should receive them in a couple of days. Please correct me if I am wrong. Here's how I arrived at the point of replacing Glow Plugs and possible the "Preglow Control Module". The "Check Engine Light came on then later, the "Glow Plug" light indicator came on. My friend scanned it and said there was a possibility the Preglow Control Module needed to be placed. I took the car to a local automotive shop specialized in reparing MB for a diagnostic. I was told that I had at least (2) bad glow plugs and it could be fixed to the tune of $950.00. That's when I decided to do it myself and I am trusting you guys to help me.
Thanks again for the information. I'll read the book, follow the instructions. Should I encounter a problem, I'll stop immediately and seeking additional information.
Allen
Thanks again for the information. I'll read the book, follow the instructions. Should I encounter a problem, I'll stop immediately and seeking additional information.
Allen
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 835
Likes: 2
From: Bay Area, CA
09' E320
Buy a $4 multi meter from Harbor Freight and then follow the tutorial for testing the W123 Relay/GP's at dieselgiant.com. Relay is different, but principals are the same for your engine. Testing will tell you if the relay is bad, if it is a bad GP or if it was user error {If you crank the engine w/o glowing you'll set code PO380 and sometimes the GP light will also stay on for one or two starts. Both will clear themselves if no further faults occur}.
HF also sells a $50 OBDII scanner.
Because of the delicate nature of the GP's, I would only replace the bad one and NOT tempt fate replacing GP's that are still good; I'd feel pretty dumb breaking my car "fixing" something that wasn't broke in the first palce.........I'd also use OEM Beru plugs rather than Bosch as Beru's are a little beefier where the hex head attaches to the body of the GP. Beru's of course cost more.
The real world info you'll find on this and the other forum will be much more valuable than what is contained in the DVD..........at least as pertains to this project.
HF also sells a $50 OBDII scanner.
Because of the delicate nature of the GP's, I would only replace the bad one and NOT tempt fate replacing GP's that are still good; I'd feel pretty dumb breaking my car "fixing" something that wasn't broke in the first palce.........I'd also use OEM Beru plugs rather than Bosch as Beru's are a little beefier where the hex head attaches to the body of the GP. Beru's of course cost more.
The real world info you'll find on this and the other forum will be much more valuable than what is contained in the DVD..........at least as pertains to this project.
Trending Topics
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: So CA
1984 300D,82 Volvo Diesel
Yours is a W210 BTW.
You need to search this forum and Mercedesshop.com forum (now Peachparts.com) for E300 and/or 606 broken Glow Plugs before proceeding further. They have a habit of snapping off in the head if not careful.......you'll want to soak the bad ones with liberal amounts of penetrating oil for a few days first. Use a torque wrench set to no more than 40-50NM for removal. They WILL snap at 80-90NM almost EVERY time. Pull IM and then run it to operating temp immediately prior to attempting removal. You can clear the code later. If stuck, don't push it. Take your time; keep soaking, reheating to operating temp and maybe using "Freeze" when hot to help break carbon loose. REAM hole before reinstalling.
Some OBDII scanners will provide codes telling you which GP's are at fault. P1_365 is GP #1 or 2, P1_367 ir #3 or 4 and P1_369 #5 orr 6. Or you can use the multi meter.
You need to search this forum and Mercedesshop.com forum (now Peachparts.com) for E300 and/or 606 broken Glow Plugs before proceeding further. They have a habit of snapping off in the head if not careful.......you'll want to soak the bad ones with liberal amounts of penetrating oil for a few days first. Use a torque wrench set to no more than 40-50NM for removal. They WILL snap at 80-90NM almost EVERY time. Pull IM and then run it to operating temp immediately prior to attempting removal. You can clear the code later. If stuck, don't push it. Take your time; keep soaking, reheating to operating temp and maybe using "Freeze" when hot to help break carbon loose. REAM hole before reinstalling.
Some OBDII scanners will provide codes telling you which GP's are at fault. P1_365 is GP #1 or 2, P1_367 ir #3 or 4 and P1_369 #5 orr 6. Or you can use the multi meter.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=2250046#post2250046
DRILLING OUT GLOWPLUGS
http://alan.mcreynolds.googlepages.com/howtoremovebrokenglowplugs-mercedesom606
Another drill out thread but different
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM606BrokenGlowPlug
Another drill out thread- check and see if it is the same as the 1st one
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/BrokenGlowPlug
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: So CA
1984 300D,82 Volvo Diesel
The Glow Plugs are Electric Heating Elements that screw into you Cylinder Head below the Injectors.
They are used as an aid to starting Diesel Engines in cold weather. When they get electricity they get sort of a yellow red hot and raise the temp. of the Precombustion chamber so that when the Diesel Fuel is injected it ignites.
They are used as an aid to starting Diesel Engines in cold weather. When they get electricity they get sort of a yellow red hot and raise the temp. of the Precombustion chamber so that when the Diesel Fuel is injected it ignites.
